'83 K20 auto to manual locking hubs conversion

[MARKDTN]

I have had this truck since '91. My uncle bought it new and I got it with 32K miles. It now has about 180K. It has not been a DD for a long time, but still gets used when needed. I do not use 4WD very often but when I do it is hard to get the autolocking hubs to completely disengage. To get the hubs to unlock, you have to drive fast in reverse in a straight line on a warm day or you get clicking. In about 1993 it got 2 new hubs from a GM dealer put on. I have been ignoring this for years but I am finally ready to swap to manual lock hubs. I am very mechanical but have just never taken a 4WD hub apart. I'm very confused about 1) what kit do I need? and 2) how deep do I have to get? The Warn website only goes back to 1989 so I can't get a good feel for parts. I see a 26241DW Warn kit on Ebay that says it works but then it says Dana 44. I was pretty sure mine is a 10 bolt? What Warn (or other brand) kit do I need? I see super duty, standard duty, premium.... I have watched a few videos and I think if I understand correctly that I remove the cap, remove the hub retaining ring, pull old hub, put back new hub, retaining ring, cap, done. Is that the high level process? If I don't have wheel bearing issues is there any reason to go deeper "while I am there"? I don't think I have any transfer case issues since it is not full-time 4WD? I just need someone who knows what to do to give me a little high level advice and a push in the right direction. Thanks!

[400/400]

I had an issue on my ‘85 K20 where it would try to engage the auto hubs when it got below zero. Felt like it was going to tear the axle from out of the truck when it did it around 30mph.

So I swapped my factory auto hubs to manual. I recall it was pretty straight forward. I think the new hubs came with an exploded view for assembly.

They swap can be done just by pulling the old ones out. No need to remove wheel or hub. Nothing other than the hub lock assemblies are changed.

If you want to go deeper and service the bearings and replace the seals, removing the hubs is the 1st step in that process.

I had used warn hubs on another truck, they were the lower cost set and mostly plastic. They had held up fine.

My ‘85 was my daily at the time so I wanted something a little more robust. I went with an all metal set that were mile marker brand and again, no troubles.

As far as tools for the job, depending on the screws, you will also need Allen wrenches or torx bits and snap ring pliers.

I think the locking hubs work on all 1/2 and 3/4 tons from at least 81-87 On the 10 bolt fronts and maybe as far back as ‘73. Not sure if the 10 bolt locking hubs were any different than the Dana 44s.

Looks like I have a pic of my hubs after swapping them out on page 5 of my ‘85 build thread in my signature below.

[kwmech]

Nothing special needed, allen wrench kit and a pair of external snap ring pliers and a sharp pick to get the larger outer snap ring off

[1976gmc20]

I had the opposite problem: the "automatic" hubs wouldn't engage reliably on our 91 Suburban. We were camping up in the mountains and I was trying to back our trailer up a little hill into a spot. Despite being in 4 low the back wheels were spinning on the grass and I had to pull forward and back a number of times before I finally had 4wd.

Damn things got changed out for new Warn hubs right away. I did have a shop do it just because i was working full time and it was only like another $20 for the installation. (I've had front axle hubs and bearings apart dozens of times.) The truck is traded and gone but I still have the factory hubs in the garage.

[mongocanfly]

I had a set of those back in the day..what a pain they were..had to be replaced several times..finally they decided to engage on day while I was doing about 65mph... that was the end of them for me
Like kw said.. Allen wrench, snap ring pliers..and done..no more problems

[MARKDTN]

Thank you! I see a 26241DW Warn kit on Ebay that says it works but then it says Dana 44. I was pretty sure mine is a 10 bolt? What Warn (or other brand) kit do I need? I see super duty, standard duty, premium....

[1976gmc20]

I would just go to someplace like NAPA. It's their job to get the right part assuming it's the factory axle.

Though my guess is that all GM half tons are the same from about 1971 to 1991?

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

I would just go to someplace like NAPA. It's their job to get the right part assuming it's the factory axle.

Though my guess is that all GM half tons are the same from about 1971 to 1991?

Mine is a 3/4 ton (K20)

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Mine is a 3/4 ton (K20)

Well, that's probably going to be one of them "little ones" and not the massive hubs that I had on my 1973 K/20.

Even more reason to make the parts store figure it out. If they sell you the wrong part then they have to take it back.

[MARKDTN]

I always like to close the loop on an issue. I ordered a set of Warn 20990 hubs. RH side went on no issues. LH side when I got it all together I could not fully lock. Took it apart 3 times and put it back together. Finally I grabbed a pair of pliers and made it lock-bad mistake. Messed up the plate in the cover that pushes on the spring. Called Warn and admitted my mistake. They don't sell just the cover so I had to buy a complete new hub (1 side). Tried with just the new cover and same thing, won't fully lock. So I pulled the hub and swapped it too. Locked the first try as it should. I guess that hub was somehow defective. Anyway, got it all worked out, just cost me more $$ than it should have.

Thanks for the help.

It made me a bit nervous to remove all the snap rings in the hub as the instructions say to do (and a few videos I watched). There was one right at the bearing retainer. If you leave it the hub won't go in far enough to put the hub retaining clip in. Mine did not have a groove near the end of the splines-also just as the instructions said it wouldn't. But with a straight axle There is really no place for the axle to go so I guess it is fine. I assume it still has a C-Clip in the differential holding it in place.