My 572 doesn’t fit!

[Extended Power]

If only I would have left it a stock 572....but nooooooo....I gotta jack around, and try to make more power....(Extended Power)

So after almost two years of ordering parts, and hitting stumbling blocks at every purchase for this thing, I finally get it hoisted into the engine bay to fit it into its final resting place. Only the engine had a completely different idea.

Lowering it in, the passenger side valve cover hits the heater box, AND the fire wall....and looking at the engine mounts, it says it still has to go back another inch....NOT gonna happen.

The heater box can be taken out, and go with Vintage Air afterwards, but I have no idea what engine mounts I can use that will bring the engine forward enough to clear everything.

The reason it’s too big:
Sold the stock GM Performance heads, and went with AFR 335v2.
So already, it’s a tall deck, with taller heads.
Then with the cam I went with, I installed a stud girdle....with which the stock 572 valve covers don’t clear...
So I had to purchase a set of spacers...which equals more height/width.

I could pull the girdles off, and the spacers, then change the rocker arm nuts to shorter ones, and redo the valve lash....again. (Mechanical roller)
I don’t really want to do this, as I want the added strength and reliability from the girdles.

Who else has fought with fitting a tall deck BBC into these trucks?

I’m ready to sell this damn thing already.

[cwcarpenter98]

If the paint on your firewall isn't perfect, a well placed smack with a hammer will get the clearance you need. Another option is to cut and weld an opening.

If that won't work for you, could you fab up some new mounts?

[72 tigger]

Really cool engine!! Don’t give up

[Keith Seymore]

Get rid of those things on either side.

You don't need those.

K

[biketopia]

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=384900

Regan may have some insight for you

[Extended Power]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Get rid of those things on either side.

You don't need those.

K

What are you referring to?
The heater box enclosure is coming out today.
The brakes...yeah, I'm going to need those.

[1971Stepside]

First world problems LOL

[Extended Power]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

First world problems LOL

I know you are just joking...
I’ve worked my ass off for everything I have. Nothing has ever been given to me...besides advise.

We all have the same 24 hours in a day.

[68350]

Could you just drill new holes and move your motor mounts forward an inch or so? I assume you’re gonna be running electric fans so you should have room. Of course this will mean the trans mount needs to be drilled too. I know when guys do a big block swap in a 4wd the motor has to be moved a few inches forward to fit best. Otherwise you could modify the firewall. Don’t give up, you’re so close! Just curious if you tried lowering it in without valve covers on? I know you probably couldn’t get them back on if you do this, but you could maybe see if the motor fits without them, give you an idea how close you are

[KQQL IT]

Isn't there a forward position for the big chevy ?
The 454 in my 68 looks way forward than yours.

[geezer#99]

What are you gonna use for headers?

[1971Stepside]

I know you are just joking...
I’ve worked my ass off for everything I have. Nothing has ever been given to me...besides advise.

We all have the same 24 hours in a day.

Yeah man. I am just joking. I appreciate your work. Just drooling over that 572 was all that I meant. Keep at it.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by Extended Power

What are you referring to?
The heater box enclosure is coming out today.
The brakes...yeah, I'm going to need those.

Brakes?

Are you building this thing to go, or to stop?!?

[3drburb]

Don't give up.
Maybe try to see if you can get one of those Slider SBC/BBC LS engine conversion mounts to work for you.

[Extended Power]

Originally Posted by 68350

Could you just drill new holes and move your motor mounts forward an inch or so? I assume you’re gonna be running electric fans so you should have room. Of course this will mean the trans mount needs to be drilled too. I know when guys do a big block swap in a 4wd the motor has to be moved a few inches forward to fit best. Otherwise you could modify the firewall. Don’t give up, you’re so close! Just curious if you tried lowering it in without valve covers on? I know you probably couldn’t get them back on if you do this, but you could maybe see if the motor fits without them, give you an idea how close you are

Its in now...just really close to the firewall.

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Isn't there a forward position for the big chevy ?
The 454 in my 68 looks way forward than yours.

Its in the same holes as the 402 was in. Most forward holes in the frame.
After I remove the heater box, I will see how much clearance it has at the back corner.

Originally Posted by geezer#99

What are you gonna use for headers?

Headers were custom made by Dan Lemons. He asked every question about what I had for block, heads, oil pan, shift linkage, etc. And, they will be running inside the frame, not below.
I also bought a custom transmission mount for this setup.

[Extended Power]

So since I am pulling my heater housing and core out, I won’t be using the heater hoses.
Can I just plug them off at the pump and intake manifold, or should I loop it together? My water pump does not have the 90* short hose from under the thermostat, to the top of the water pump either.

[PbFut]

I am not 100% sure for this engine. The heater hoses were a duel purpose of heater and also a bypass of the tstat so you did not get a hot spot in the heads on some applications. Make sure you verify 100% if you need the by pass or risk knock and head gasket issues.

[Extended Power]

Just tried to put the rad back in with the electric fans...no-go.
The front accessory drive setup sticks forward way further than the v-belt pulleys did.
I pulled the two 16” fans off, and slid the rad in so I could measure the distance between the rad and the serpentine belt accessory drive. Came up with 3”.....and that’s BEFORE I move the engine ahead about 1/2”.
I will have to switch the fans to be pushers, instead of pullers. (They are rated, at 2500 cfm each.)
I knew they aren’t as efficient as pushers, but I have no choice, as I’m not gonna buy slim fans that are rated at less than half the flow rate as these, and only have 1/2” of clearance between the fans and the engine.

.....this is getting tiresome.

[bcfishon]

Originally Posted by Extended Power

So since I am pulling my heater housing and core out, I won’t be using the heater hoses.
Can I just plug them off at the pump and intake manifold, or should I loop it together? My water pump does not have the 90* short hose from under the thermostat, to the top of the water pump either.

Loop

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by Extended Power

Just tried to put the rad back in with the electric fans...no-go.
The front accessory drive setup sticks forward way further than the v-belt pulleys did.

.....this is getting tiresome.

All part of the hot rodding game, you'll get it figured out! Jamming a tall deck rat motor with a nice serp set up is definitely going to take up more real-estate than a 396 set up from the era. You'll get it, don't rush it, take your time and just stare at it a while, sometimes that's all it takes to find the little extra.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Extended Power

Just tried to put the rad back in with the electric fans...no-go.
The front accessory drive setup sticks forward way further than the v-belt pulleys did.
I pulled the two 16” fans off, and slid the rad in so I could measure the distance between the rad and the serpentine belt accessory drive. Came up with 3”.....and that’s BEFORE I move the engine ahead about 1/2”.
I will have to switch the fans to be pushers, instead of pullers. (They are rated, at 2500 cfm each.)
I knew they aren’t as efficient as pushers, but I have no choice, as I’m not gonna buy slim fans that are rated at less than half the flow rate as these, and only have 1/2” of clearance between the fans and the engine.

.....this is getting tiresome.

I put the fans in front of the radiator in my 427 truck. Pushers behind the radiator, (engine side) wont cool that motor! Freeing up that 3" inches of front clearance will allow you to move the motor forward enough to clear the valve covers and the distributor. I Plugged the heater hose nipples and removed the heater core and box. A guy can always relocate the heater core to inside the cab if you think your going to need heat. Unless your spinning that motor up to live at 7+Krpm those rocker stud girdles are an unnecessary PITA with solid lifters. I love my BBC and have dumped an insane amount of money into getting it to fit and run right. Only to have some kid in a 4 cylinder Jap tuner blow your doors plum off!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

I put the fans in front of the radiator in my 427 truck. Pushers behind the radiator, (engine side) wont cool that motor! Freeing up that 3" inches of front clearance will allow you to move the motor forward enough to clear the valve covers and the distributor. I Plugged the heater hose nipples and removed the heater core and box. A guy can always relocate the heater core to inside the cab if you think your going to need heat. Unless your spinning that motor up to live at 7+Krpm those rocker stud girdles are an unnecessary PITA with solid lifters. I love my BBC and have dumped an insane amount of money into getting it to fit and run right. Only to have some kid in a 4 cylinder Jap tuner blow your doors plum off!

I get the need to move things forward for clearance w/the bigger BBC, but I would want to keep an eye on how far the lead cylinders are moved past the spindle centerline @ the same time. Sure seems like it could open up the can-O-worms on other things (x-member clearance, impact on steering feel, etc).

[OldChevy1954]

MY 72 K20 frame had a set of 'forward' frame holes. Trans crossmember had a few holes forward too. I think I ended up drilling one new hole up front and maybe two at the crossmember.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Extended Power

Headers were custom made by Dan Lemons. He asked every question about what I had for block, heads, oil pan, shift linkage, etc. And, they will be running inside the frame, not below.
I also bought a custom transmission mount for this setup.

Nice looking headers!
Have you bolted them on while positioning the motor fore/aft to check for interference anywhere?

[Extended Power]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Nice looking headers!
Have you bolted them on while positioning the motor fore/aft to check for interference anywhere?

That’s a brilliant idea.
I’m gonna do that before I move it forward any...just-in-case.
Man, would that ever be the icing on the cake...headers not fitting...THAT, would be the “done deal” on this little escapade.