55.2-59 Front Fender Brace

[Oldtruckwelder]

Would like to get your opinions of the front fender brace.
Years ago the bracket got omitted when the lower portion of fender was replaced. Now bodywork and primer are complete on fenders. I definitely could fab something up to connect brace but as stiff as these fenders are do you really think they are necessary. Or would it be something that I would regret down the road.
And this is definitely NOT a concours restoration.
Thanks JT from SC

[mr48chev]

My experience with both AD and TF trucks is that any factory brace you leave off is going to develope into a rattle or cracked sheet metal sooner or later if you actually put miles on the truck.

That one probably isn't critical for sheet metal alignment but every one on an AD is critical to maintaining sheet metal alignment.

[dsraven]

I would say put it back on so you don't regret it when it is painted and kinda late for welding. kinda with mr48 on this one, they are there to stop vibration which causes cracks and to keep panel alignment consistent (well, as much as can be expected on these old rigs)

[dsraven]

also, while talking about body alignment, make sure the rad support and cab mounts are in good shape. the whole set up kinda pivots like a see saw on the front cab mounts. they sit metal on metal on the frame (basically) and the rad support mount and rear cab mount are rubber. the fenders and inner fenders bolt up to the cab at the top and bottom, so not a whole lot of connection there and a bit of stress for the old steel. the fender braces also play into that scenario as well as the inner fender mounts at the lower inner section of the firewall. now add in that most guys remove the old cross member under the rear of the engine to allow for a newer drivetrain. that allows the frame to flex where it was pretty solid before. if it isn't thought of as a whole "big picture", with how all the parts interact to keep things lined up, then you may end up with things not lining up well and, worst case, a few cracks start to show up. speed bumps and driveway ramps that make you go across them at an angle will cause the frame and body to flex and this action will usually start to show up any issues, like doors that don't close as well as they used to, body gaps that are tighter, wider or wider at one end than the other, small cracks showing up at stress points or spots where a patch panel was welded in.
short version-install all the bracing you can. don't leave out the factory stuff, ensure the frame is well supported.

[Oldtruckwelder]

Thanks for the response.

[Oldtruckwelder]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

My experience with both AD and TF trucks is that any factory brace you leave off is going to develope into a rattle or cracked sheet metal sooner or later if you actually put miles on the truck.

That one probably isn't critical for sheet metal alignment but every one on an AD is critical to maintaining sheet metal alignment.

Thanks for the response
JT from SC

[Oldtruckwelder]

Originally Posted by dsraven

also, while talking about body alignment, make sure the rad support and cab mounts are in good shape. the whole set up kinda pivots like a see saw on the front cab mounts. they sit metal on metal on the frame (basically) and the rad support mount and rear cab mount are rubber. the fenders and inner fenders bolt up to the cab at the top and bottom, so not a whole lot of connection there and a bit of stress for the old steel. the fender braces also play into that scenario as well as the inner fender mounts at the lower inner section of the firewall. now add in that most guys remove the old cross member under the rear of the engine to allow for a newer drivetrain. that allows the frame to flex where it was pretty solid before. if it isn't thought of as a whole "big picture", with how all the parts interact to keep things lined up, then you may end up with things not lining up well and, worst case, a few cracks start to show up. speed bumps and driveway ramps that make you go across them at an angle will cause the frame and body to flex and this action will usually start to show up any issues, like doors that don't close as well as they used to, body gaps that are tighter, wider or wider at one end than the other, small cracks showing up at stress points or spots where a patch panel was welded in.
short version-install all the bracing you can. don't leave out the factory stuff, ensure the frame is well supported.

Thanks for the response
JT from SC

[Oldtruckwelder]

Made a good rainy day project out of it.
Found 2 fender braces and 1 fender bracket in my parts pile.
Fabricated a new bracket from measurements of found one.
Required a 2 x 2-1/8” piece of metal if anyone needs to fab one.
Got it welded and coated
JT from SC

[dsraven]

on second thoughts, I would skip putting that on there.
haha, just kidding. looks good, like it was a bought part

[_Ogre]

58 TRUK had the rod style braces when i disassembled truk
they all now reside in a 5 gallon bucket for the last 36,000 miles
if you go low most of the braces need to be removed anyway

[Stepside Jim]

A fine bit of fabrication if I may say.