68C10 front suspension overhaul

[oneshotkyle]

I have a 68c10 with 6 lug drum currently. Front is pretty worn and I’m getting a list together to make an order. I currently have 3 nub 15” wheels and am aware of disc brake kit rubbing. I will use whatever spacer to get me by until I get different wheels. I am staying 6 lug. Truck is setting on a CPP 3/5 spring kit with shocks and long adj panhard bar right now. I want to upgrade to 73-87 arms, ball joints and tie rods. Will keep it manual 68 gear box for the time being. eBay has tubular upper/lower arm kit out of Arizona with 73-87 ball joints has anyone used these?

[oneshotkyle]

Next thing this is the kit I found on eBay it’s CPP disc setup.

[oneshotkyle]

If both of those setups are right all I would need to complete the front would be tie rods, drag links and wheel spacers correct

[oneshotkyle]

Figure someone might have chimed in about the a-arms. They look almost identical to CPP ones

[Getter-Done]

This thread has information about front suspension swaps.

Link: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/....php?p=4450757

Hope this helps.

[dmjlambert]

I recommend do whatever it takes to stay stock Chevy parts, post want-to-buy ads in the parts section to get what you need from 71-72 model years. Unless there is actually something wrong with your A-arms they would not need replacing. Personally I would not have anything by CPP on my truck, and would not use spacers to try to make non-disc-brake-compatible wheels fit. It would be significantly easier to get some 5-lug rally wheels that just fit. Just my 2¢ and I apologize if it's not useful advice, and I'm not trying to be critical; I just have read too many OMG threads on this forum about the state of aftermarket parts and what brake and suspension systems people have found themselves dealing with and fabrication to work around problems.

[RustyPile]

I'm not being critical, but it seems to me you're making this way more complex and expensive than it has to be.. Dimple the frame for a power steering box. Use a '71 - '72 or '73 - '80 something front crossmember. Include in the "salvage yard grab" all the steering linkage, control arms, springs, spindles, rotors, and calipers.. No fabricating, no spacers, or adaptors needed for anything. Everything is bolt-on and parts are available at most auto parts stores.

[oneshotkyle]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

I recommend do whatever it takes to stay stock Chevy parts, post want-to-buy ads in the parts section to get what you need from 71-72 model years. Unless there is actually something wrong with your A-arms they would not need replacing. Personally I would not have anything by CPP on my truck, and would not use spacers to try to make non-disc-brake-compatible wheels fit. It would be significantly easier to get some 5-lug rally wheels that just fit. Just my 2¢ and I apologize if it's not useful advice, and I'm not trying to be critical; I just have read too many OMG threads on this forum about the state of aftermarket parts and what brake and suspension systems people have found themselves dealing with and fabrication to work around problems.

Appreciate that. My arms seem to be alright as far as i can see. Just thought the update to later style crossbar and ball joints would be more beneficial. I am just gonna stay with the 6 lug setup and will eventually go to a differn 17 or 18 steel wheeel with caps. I was just trying to get the suspension done and drivable without dropping another 2k on tires/wheels

[oneshotkyle]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I'm not being critical, but it seems to me you're making this way more complex and expensive than it has to be.. Dimple the frame for a power steering box. Use a '71 - '72 or '73 - '80 something front crossmember. Include in the "salvage yard grab" all the steering linkage, control arms, springs, spindles, rotors, and calipers.. No fabricating, no spacers, or adaptors needed for anything. Everything is bolt-on and parts are available at most auto parts stores.

Why would i dimple the frame to rebuild front control arms im not concerned about the steering at this time. Thanks tho

[oneshotkyle]

Im not really set on rebuilding oem vs buying an updated arm. I am taking everything in as constructive criticism and learning from the forum daily. Definitely going to do disc and 2.5 lowered spindles. My wheels will get changed out one day to a larger diameter and therefore bring the truck back up in overall height. This is another option i have thought about.

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by oneshotkyle

Appreciate that. My arms seem to be alright as far as i can see. Just thought the update to later style crossbar and ball joints would be more beneficial. I am just gonna stay with the 6 lug setup and will eventually go to a differn 17 or 18 steel wheeel with caps. I was just trying to get the suspension done and drivable without dropping another 2k on tires/wheels

If you could possibly tolerate the look of truck rally wheels at about $40 to $60 each used on average, and perhaps inexpensive 235/70-15 tires it is probably likely you can sell them later and almost break even, and it would get you going now until you are ready to deal with that expense. Just a thought. For my truck it was the end goal to have that type and style wheels and I bought them here on the forum. 6 lug rally wheels are a little more costly used but you would also have a good chance of breaking even or profiting when you sell them.

[dmjlambert]

I just mention this stuff because I notice you're a premium member here and have the ability to buy and sell on the forum.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by oneshotkyle

Why would i dimple the frame to rebuild front control arms im not concerned about the steering at this time. Thanks tho

Dimple the frame while nothing is in the way.. Then, at a later date, if you should decide to install power steering, the dimple work is done.

[Getter-Done]

Link: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...power+steering

Just for your Reference.

[oneshotkyle]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Link: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...power+steering

Just for your Reference.

Power steering will be after the front suspension gets rebuilt. As everything is worn and no one will align with wore out stuff

[oneshotkyle]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Link: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...power+steering

Just for your Reference.

Power steering will be after the front suspension gets rebuilt. As everything is worn and no one will align with wore out stuff

[theastronaut]

63-72 a-arms shafts are a much better/more durable design than the softer 73-87 rubber bushings that degrade and deflect, and I'd bet they'll also outlast aftermarket urethane/delrin bushings found on tubular arms. The original cross shafts/bushings looked brand new with no wear at 150k on my truck. New shafts are dirt cheap on rockauto and come with new seals.

I'd stick with the stock arms, do the caster mod on the lower control arm shaft (thats the only benefit those tubular arms usually offer-added caster), and use CPP's 63-70 disc brake kit. 1.50" bolt on spacers will clear the studs and calipers with stock drum brake wheels. It'll drive really well with those mods and track dead straight at interstate speeds. Steering effort will be pretty high in parking lots with added caster and added scrub radius from skinny wheels with spacers but if my skinny arms can deal with it I'm sure yours can deal with it until you get power steering

That's the recipe I used on my '66 and it drives great other than heavy steering in parking lots. Spend the money you save on tubular arms on power steering instead. I have a Borgeson box waiting to go on mine when I get some spare time.

[oneshotkyle]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

63-72 a-arms shafts are a much better/more durable design than the softer 73-87 rubber bushings that degrade and deflect, and I'd bet they'll also outlast aftermarket urethane/delrin bushings found on tubular arms. The original cross shafts/bushings looked brand new with no wear at 150k on my truck. New shafts are dirt cheap on rockauto and come with new seals.

I'd stick with the stock arms, do the caster mod on the lower control arm shaft (thats the only benefit those tubular arms usually offer-added caster), and use CPP's 63-70 disc brake kit. 1.50" bolt on spacers will clear the studs and calipers with stock drum brake wheels. It'll drive really well with those mods and track dead straight at interstate speeds. Steering effort will be pretty high in parking lots with added caster and added scrub radius from skinny wheels with spacers but if my skinny arms can deal with it I'm sure yours can deal with it until you get power steering

That's the recipe I used on my '66 and it drives great other than heavy steering in parking lots. Spend the money you save on tubular arms on power steering instead. I have a Borgeson box waiting to go on mine when I get some spare time.

Now thats the kind of answers a guy is looking for. Thanks for sharing. And you truck looks super

[hewittca]

I second what theastronaut says. When I rebuilt the upper arms on my '72 with new cross shafts, they were a bit tricky to get the threads to line up but once you get it right they rotate perfectly and with virtually no squish since they are steel. Drill a new locating hole in the lower shaft for more caster. Most go 3/4" forward on the lower arm, but when I did that my spring was rubbing the crossmember. I went to 3/8" forward and added power steering and that was the magic combo for me. That coupled with all new tierods and balljoints and it drives quite well. I also have 4 nub 5x5 wheels so they clear the calipers without spacers.