Vintage Air - Glove Box Arm Issue

[1972CheyenneSuper]

Assuming I'm not the first, but has anybody ran into an issue with the glove box door arm not retreating fully while closing the glovebox. My passenger duct hose seems to be sitting pretty much in the arc swing of the arm. Just checking here before I pull this stupid insert out or start fabricating things. Getting real close to making an aircraft cable support or something.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

I just replaced hoses and the arm just brushed the hose right before the door closes, but I snapped the collar on the ball vent before I got it repositioned and haven't worked on it again.
You might just need a little longer hose to route it forward another few inches before it turns toward the driver.

[cj847]

I had a similar problem. If I recall correctly, I just bent the arm slightly until it cleared.

[1972CheyenneSuper]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

I just replaced hoses and the arm just brushed the hose right before the door closes, but I snapped the collar on the ball vent before I got it repositioned and haven't worked on it again.
You might just need a little longer hose to route it forward another few inches before it turns toward the driver.

I wish I would've taken a picture before I put this box in to remember what it looked like behind there. From what I can see, by the time you get the adapter on, the hose has to take a pretty sharp bend up and to the left to get past the evap line with the sticky wrap on it. They already don't give you enough hose, but I lost four or five inches to a heat gun incident. The system, minus the ducting is a decently thought out install. The ducting is absolutely horrendous though. It could definitely be manifolded better imo, with the clips on the panel, they wouldn't have to change the whole case design either.

Off to the shop to see what I can do with it..

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by 1972CheyenneSuper

I wish I would've taken a picture before I put this box in to remember what it looked like behind there. From what I can see, by the time you get the adapter on, the hose has to take a pretty sharp bend up and to the left to get past the evap line with the sticky wrap on it. They already don't give you enough hose, but I lost four or five inches to a heat gun incident. The system, minus the ducting is a decently thought out install. The ducting is absolutely horrendous though. It could definitely be manifolded better imo, with the clips on the panel, they wouldn't have to change the whole case design either.

Off to the shop to see what I can do with it..

These diagrams can be helpful:
https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...ents-and-hoses

Mine had disintegrated, so IDK if I had that hairpin on the passenger side
You might be able to cheat and splice in a piece of rigid dryer vent or sewer pipe to get some length back.
I bought the hose set and I'm pretty sure I did every piece at least twice because I kept finding I had already used the piece I needed :-\

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by cj847

I had a similar problem. If I recall correctly, I just bent the arm slightly until it cleared.

If that works, cool. I wasn't sure if I'd have to bend it too far and have the stop not.....stopping ;-)

[1972CheyenneSuper]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

These diagrams can be helpful:
https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...ents-and-hoses

Mine had disintegrated, so IDK if I had that hairpin on the passenger side
You might be able to cheat and splice in a piece of rigid dryer vent or sewer pipe to get some length back.
I bought the hose set and I'm pretty sure I did every piece at least twice because I kept finding I had already used the piece I needed :-\

For sure, use their catalog all the time for the diagrams. I've been messing around with it for a couple of hours, took the liner out, and adjusted the vent hose back and to the right as far as I could. It's such a sharp direction change it has to make right away to get past the evaporator line. I put the liner in again and have gained a little clearance, but I'm gonna have to modify the arm to work a little different. Waiting on the brown truck to show up with my third woodgrain applique before I put the glovebox door on. Hopefully later tonight or tomorrow I'll have a resolution posted up. My defrost vent got popped out for the second time fidgeting with the liner, so I'm done taking it in and out. I don't want to scratch my dash or the vent up or damage the retaining clips to where it won't hold itself in anymore.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by 1972CheyenneSuper

For sure, use their catalog all the time for the diagrams. I've been messing around with it for a couple of hours, took the liner out, and adjusted the vent hose back and to the right as far as I could. It's such a sharp direction change it has to make right away to get past the evaporator line. I put the liner in again and have gained a little clearance, but I'm gonna have to modify the arm to work a little different. Waiting on the brown truck to show up with my third woodgrain applique before I put the glovebox door on. Hopefully later tonight or tomorrow I'll have a resolution posted up. My defrost vent got popped out for the second time fidgeting with the liner, so I'm done taking it in and out. I don't want to scratch my dash or the vent up or damage the retaining clips to where it won't hold itself in anymore.

Yep, and you can only bend old brittle plastic a few times before it don't snap back no mo'

[LNP]

I routed my hose to give clearance for the stop arm.

[1972CheyenneSuper]

To give a little finality to this post, here's where I ended up.


Once I removed the glove box liner again, it didn't look like I was going to gain much, but we had to try.



Here is the interference with the arm on the duct hose.



Looking at the factory duct adapter, the quick left pointing transition isn't helping things.



With as much coaxing as I could with slack that I didn't have to begin with, I gained maybe 1/2".



Half an inch still isn't going to be enough in my case, and with a little modification, the "catch leg" has been located to the bottom of the arm.







No final pictures as the touch up paint is currently drying, but the idea is there.

[HalfBrit]

Hope that mod works out.
Slide a piece of vacuum hose over the new downward post, serving the same purpose as the factory bumper

[A1971Blazer]

Although I used the VA vents because I had a non AC dash....there was no interference issue.....but
the factory arm on mine already looked like your fix..with the stop leg pointing downward.
I put it in and slipped a piece of rubber hose over it to prevent it from banging metal to metal against the back side.

[68panelman]

You can also use a cable stop, like the center console lid uses and lose the tailgate style arm stop.