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12-25-2024, 01:11 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Killen, Alabama USA
Posts: 3,627
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To bore or not to bore?
My normal machine shop guy retired after several years and I’ve taken a block and heads to another shop. He measured the cylinders and said the worst one had .010 wear and almost insisted that the block needed to be bored. It is a stock 1972 350 truck motor. The engine will be built back to stock specs and will only be driven occasionally. Can I get by with a re-ring kit or should I get it bored? Thanks for any help.
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72 Cheyenne Super swb. Factory 402/400,tach,posi,AM/FM, A/C. Adding cruise, 8-track 72 Cheyenne Super swb. 350/350 A/C, bucket seats 72 Cheyenne swb. Factory 402/400, tilt, posi, A/C 72 Cheyenne Super K-10. 350/4 spd., posi. 72 Suburban 350/350 tilt, tach, AM/FM, A/C, luggage rack 72 GMC Sierra lwb. 350/350, A/C. medium green/olive interior |
12-25-2024, 04:18 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Chehalis, WA
Posts: 77
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Re: To bore or not to bore?
Stock would be cast pistons, typically fit .001 +0/-.0005, so yes - the block needs to be bored. No question.
Otherwise the piston will rock in the bore with all the Bad Things that come from that. Why just the block and heads? A half-assed “overhaul” is a waste of time and money. Last edited by Willshook; Yesterday at 01:23 PM. |
Yesterday, 11:15 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
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Re: To bore or not to bore?
I would get a 2nd opinion from a different shop. First person may be honest. Or maybe really needs money so he can buy his kid a GI-Joe with the Kung Fu Grip.
Unless your "occasional drives" are screaming runs down a track strip, probably could get by with a good hone job, new rings and put it back together. Optimal, no. Much less costly, yes. Since you have the heads off, might as well get a valve job and new valve seals. An old repair book I have mentions that "most shops" have equipment that can resize pistons to better fit slightly worn cylinders. Don't know if such equipment or anyone that can use it still exists. Book is from the 60's. It does mention that if the rings are worn, the piston pins are also probably worn. Replace both. |
Yesterday, 12:38 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Chehalis, WA
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Re: To bore or not to bore?
The book is likely referring to knurling pistons just like valve guides can be knurled. It’s a short-term hack at best, and won’t address a .010 gap regardless.
Last edited by Willshook; Yesterday at 12:46 PM. |
Yesterday, 12:40 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: washington
Posts: 2,297
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Re: To bore or not to bore?
The truth is it ran before and will run again without boring.
Machinists love to have everything perfect. Reduces their liability. Remember, the last guy to touch it gets blamed for everything. 10 thousand is typical of a well-taken care of motor with 100K. Of course, you will have to remove the ridge at the top. With all the work required to take the motor apart and clean everything, it makes sense to bore it. But you need to do what works best for you. Cheers |
Yesterday, 02:06 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Killen, Alabama USA
Posts: 3,627
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Re: To bore or not to bore?
Thanks for the input. I took block, heads, intake, valve covers, timing cover and oil pan. Definitely getting the heads reworked, but was going to get the other parts vatted for cleaning. The engine will be built back to stock specs and put in a restored 72 Super that will only get driven occasionally. Just didn’t want to spend the extra money if it wasn’t necessary.
__________________
72 Cheyenne Super swb. Factory 402/400,tach,posi,AM/FM, A/C. Adding cruise, 8-track 72 Cheyenne Super swb. 350/350 A/C, bucket seats 72 Cheyenne swb. Factory 402/400, tilt, posi, A/C 72 Cheyenne Super K-10. 350/4 spd., posi. 72 Suburban 350/350 tilt, tach, AM/FM, A/C, luggage rack 72 GMC Sierra lwb. 350/350, A/C. medium green/olive interior |
Yesterday, 03:46 PM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Chehalis, WA
Posts: 77
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Re: To bore or not to bore?
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Last edited by Willshook; Yesterday at 04:08 PM. |
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