PTFE or AN Fuel Hose?

[Loose Screw]

Which ones the easiest to build with?
Really I'd like to remove all rubber/hose clamped fuel line on my truck.

fuel pump->filter (I'd like a glass one to see what's going on)->fuel regulator->carb.

There is some fuel line between the gas tank and fuel pump i'd like to do too.

What you using?

I did watch this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFJ2...eworksOfficial

[Rick Bollinger]

I moved my tank to the rear with a fuel injection pump for my FiTech EFI. I ran Evil Energy ptfe all the way from the tank forward and back for return line. I also ran it for the trans cooler lines from the trans to radiator to external cooler back to trans. I had never used braded line before went in pretty easy. I used a lot of clamps to hold it to the frame. When I first started the truck, I had zero leaks anywhere. I was definitely pleased and surprised. Also used a 50 and a 100-micron filter hooked back-to-back in the frame rail where I can access it for maintaince. I do not recommend using a glass fuel filter. They have some clear plastic ones you could use temporally if you have been having problems. And this is only with a low-pressure system "stock".

[Rust_never_sleeps]

"glass filters have burned down more houses than ex-wives" -- Derek Bieri

[PbFut]

I don't think PTFE is needed unless you are running high alcohol in the fuel. There maybe other reasons but I can tell you I've not had any problems with standard AN fuel line running Cheveron and other top tier fuel in CA. I run 60lbs in -8 and -6 lines. Same in race car running AP Race Gas 98 unleaded. Aluminum 37degree Conical washers make huge difference in weeping oil line fittings especially if often disconnected. One just saved me on a inverted flair I could not get to seal just last week. Venders don't like to stock because they are very delicate and damage easily making them a little hard to source.

[Rick Bollinger]

I am no expert by any means, but in my research, it is my understanding that the ptfe has much longer longevity than a standard rubber efi fuel line. I know on race cars you are always changing stuff around and on regular street cars you don't mess with stuff nearly as much unless there is a problem with it. This is what I am hoping for. Finish it and don't worry about it for several years.

[Loose Screw]

Ok, so I'm going to put this, no glass:

filter.jpg

so I'm going to go: fuel pump->Regulator->Filter



I'm going with Evil Energy once I figure out all the fittings I need.
I will need a Good tube cutter too.

[Loose Screw]

I put new supposedly good rubber fuel line about 6 months ago. I've messed with it pretty much since I put in on, new fuel pump, filter, pressure check, and the line is feeling a little gummy and leaving my fingers black...I should just learn how to bend pipe....but even at that you Still have a few pieces of non metal fuel line here and there (I think?).

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by Loose Screw

I put new supposedly good rubber fuel line about 6 months ago. I've messed with it pretty much since I put in on, new fuel pump, filter, pressure check, and the line is feeling a little gummy and leaving my fingers black...I should just learn how to bend pipe....but even at that you Still have a few pieces of non metal fuel line here and there (I think?).

Basic Tubing Bending 101 for beginners it can get more complicated, but we won't go there now, this will cover 90 and 45 degree bends.

Always use the correct size bender for the tubing O.D. you are working with e.g. bending 1/4" in a 5/16" shoe will just flatten your tubing

Bend left to right just like you read, you can lay out all your measurements basically end to center, center to center measuring and marking left to right.

Always mark a line completely around the tube with a felt marker so no matter the position it's marked.

Always bend a wire as to what you want in a scaled down version, this will tell you what direction to bend as it can get confusing and always hold this wire up and compare for correct bending direction, this also helps keep your
"File 13" to a minimum.

The actual bender will have a "0" or arrow "^" that lines up with the degree you want to bend it. You will get a feel for it as to how much to take it past your desired degree as it will spring back a little.

The "L" is what you line up your center mark for 90 deg. bends you just put around the tube and automatically compensates for the "Gain" in other words if you mark two marks 6" center to center your finished bends will be 6" center to center.

The "R" is for a "Reverse" bend, sometimes for lack of straight tubing clearance you cannot bend the normal left to right, so you flip the bender around and now you line the "R" up instead of the "L" on your mark for a 90-degree bend

There is no "Reverse" bend for a 45-degree bend, you still use the "45" deg. to line up your mark for a 45-degree reverse bend

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by Loose Screw

....but even at that you Still have a few pieces of non metal fuel line here and there (I think?).

IIUC, the middle section secured to the frame requires flexible connections to the cab and motor because those will move independent of the frame.
Hard lines would work harden and become brittle as they flexed

[Loose Screw]

Man, it would sure be nice if that Edelbrock fuel line with filter (above) would screw right into the Edelbrock fuel pressure regulator, and if I'm afforded enough space to get it all in that area right by the carburetor....