64 C20 Dual Master Cylinder Conversion – Drum/Drum Questions

[cshanek]

Happy holidays everyone,

I’m on the homestretch of a front-end rebuild on my 1964 Chevy C20 (long-bed) and could use some guidance as I work through the details of converting to a dual-reservoir master cylinder.

The truck is currently drum/drum, with new shoes, drums, and front brake components. I’ve watched a bunch of videos and read several threads, but my setup feels just unique enough that I figured I’d start my own thread.

Here are my questions:

1. Is a brake booster worth it? I’m leaning toward using one since a lot of the eBay kits include a booster for under $200. Curious if people think it’s money well spent on these trucks.
   
2. Thoughts on eBay kits vs Brothers/JEGS/Ecklers kits? The price difference is huge. Are the cheaper, $200 kits generally fine, or am I asking for trouble? Any kit recommendations?
   
3. Parking brake: My truck still has a newly rebuilt driveshaft-mounted parking brake. Am I right in assuming I can just ignore/remove the parts in these kits meant for rear cable-style parking brakes?
   
4. Master cylinder bore size for drum/drum C20? I see 1", 1-1/8", etc. What bore are you running and how’s the pedal feel?
   
5. “Disc/drum” vs “disc/disc” kits & valves: A lot of kits are labeled for disc setups. I thought proportioning valves could be configured for different combinations. What’s the right approach for a drum/drum truck?
   
6. Brake line routing:
   I had to remove all the front brake lines during the rebuild and bought a replacement set. The rear line from the front passenger side to the back is still intact. Can I just run a second front line set and keep my rear line on the passenger side, even though most pre-bent kits go down the driver side?
   
7. Brake line clips: Where can I find the metal clips that secure the brake lines to the front crossmember? Do they sell them for dual lines?

I appreciate any insight or lessons learned from folks who’ve done this swap Thanks in advance!