wish me luck also - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

krazy_texan · 01-26-2004, 01:12 AM

tommarow morning i am going to do my first engine pull on my own, i am going to transplant my 350 from my 71 c/20 to my newly aquired 67 gmc, while i am at it i also have some ?s

is it safe to pull the engine and tranny all at once what should i do before doing this.

since i am doing this on my own i thought about taking the hood hinges off of the front clip and unbolting it from the truck and use the engine hoist to lift off the front clip, would i be able to do this. I am also going to scoot the cab forward and prime the back of it while it is unbolted and then put the new cab supports and bolt it down.

Russell · 01-26-2004, 01:39 AM

Sounds like a good plan

When I pulled my first engine, I took the front clip off, and still had troubles getting it out due to the tranny. If it is a standard, take that shifting arm off, you'll need a roll pin punch. Other than that, the engine came out real nicelike.

Its a whole lot easier to pull both the tranny and the engine at once, and is esspecially easy if you have the right tools.

Blue Beard · 01-26-2004, 10:23 AM

If you don't pull the front clip, be sure to pull the radiator..........

be sure to put a drip pan just in case any fluids leak........

should be able to do it without any big issues.

Suicide-D · 01-26-2004, 12:15 PM

Buy yourself a lift plate from the auto parts house... O'Reilly's has them for about 10.00.

I did it both ways... I pulled the front clip in two of the trucks I did this past weekend, the last one I left it on because I didn't feel like putting back on. I pulled the 6 with the tranny and I stabbed the 350 w/ T400 all with the core support on. You will need a floor Jack to go under the tranny tail housing for part of it. It's a tough job to do alone... I would want someone around for safety's sake, but it helps to have another set of hands...bribe one of your friends

orange72350 · 01-26-2004, 12:20 PM

When i did the engine in my truck i just yanked the rad and hood. took the 350/th350 combo all at once. just make sure everythings disconnected. I put it back in this way. works well, but again, you need an extra person when sliding the tranny into place. easy if u have the jacks and tools. Bribe some friends. a 12 pack and a pizza usually does it!!

gonebad2 · 01-26-2004, 12:37 PM

If you remove any body panels that are shimmed, be sure to keep track of what shims went where. I always tape them together with masking tape and mark their location. It makes it a whole lot easier when you put it back together. Mark the position of the hinges on the hood before you unbolt it. That will also save you some headaches when you put it back on.

junkyardjohn · 01-26-2004, 12:54 PM

I PERSONALLY FIND IT MUCH EASIER TO PULL MOTORS WITHOUT THE TRANS. ATTACHED, & WITHOUT REMOVING ANY SHEETMETAL. (PAST THE HOOD & RADIATOR) & 9 TIMES OUT OF 10 I'M BY MYSELF. AFTER YOU DO A COUPLE.... IT'S NO BIG DEAL.

JOHN

Olden Days · 01-26-2004, 01:28 PM

if it has an auto trans its a good idea to find a spare yoke to stick in the tranny so you dont pour fluid all over everything while pulling.

bumpster · 01-26-2004, 10:15 PM

Like orange72350, I like to pull engine and trans. as one unit. When bringing it out, it's hard to find the balance point, and by the time you clear the core support the the whole mess will be pretty much standing on it's tail. Now is when you need one helper still sober, cause when the trans clears the firewall if it's out of balance someone needs to catch it or you get to spend money on a new windsheild just like I did on my 68. Best of luck, keep us posted.

01-26-2004, 01:12 AM	#1
krazy_texan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Des Moines, Ia Posts: 3,233	wish me luck also tommarow morning i am going to do my first engine pull on my own, i am going to transplant my 350 from my 71 c/20 to my newly aquired 67 gmc, while i am at it i also have some ?s is it safe to pull the engine and tranny all at once what should i do before doing this. since i am doing this on my own i thought about taking the hood hinges off of the front clip and unbolting it from the truck and use the engine hoist to lift off the front clip, would i be able to do this. I am also going to scoot the cab forward and prime the back of it while it is unbolted and then put the new cab supports and bolt it down. __________________ Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO

01-26-2004, 01:39 AM	#2
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Sounds like a good plan When I pulled my first engine, I took the front clip off, and still had troubles getting it out due to the tranny. If it is a standard, take that shifting arm off, you'll need a roll pin punch. Other than that, the engine came out real nicelike. Its a whole lot easier to pull both the tranny and the engine at once, and is esspecially easy if you have the right tools. __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

01-26-2004, 10:23 AM	#3
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,831	If you don't pull the front clip, be sure to pull the radiator.......... be sure to put a drip pan just in case any fluids leak........ should be able to do it without any big issues. __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

01-26-2004, 12:20 PM	#5
orange72350 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Cold, Snowy High Level, Alberta Canada Eh Posts: 394	When i did the engine in my truck i just yanked the rad and hood. took the 350/th350 combo all at once. just make sure everythings disconnected. I put it back in this way. works well, but again, you need an extra person when sliding the tranny into place. easy if u have the jacks and tools. Bribe some friends. a 12 pack and a pizza usually does it!! __________________ 2003 yamaha raptor. Stock, but it still hauls!!!! 2000 skiddo mxz 700. Camoplast 1.5 inch track, jaws twin pipes, b+b can, custom built and weighted clutch, wiseco piston, high comp heads. its very fast. wow. 72 c-10 longbox. Bright Orange. Brand new 350, rv cam, performer intake, qjet, headers, 2 1/2 inch exhaust into hooker areo chamber mufflers. Body work coming soon. "dont let yer mind wander, its to little to go places by itself." "Forget the herse, cause i'll never die"-ACDC Back In Black "If It's To Loud, Yer Just Too Old" "I Love Anything Fast Enough To Do Something Stupid In" "Instant idiot, just add beer!!""

01-26-2004, 12:37 PM	#6
gonebad2 Merciless Butcher Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: CC Nevada Posts: 1,447	If you remove any body panels that are shimmed, be sure to keep track of what shims went where. I always tape them together with masking tape and mark their location. It makes it a whole lot easier when you put it back together. Mark the position of the hinges on the hood before you unbolt it. That will also save you some headaches when you put it back on. __________________ Your Bought And Sold....I Got Your Soul!

01-26-2004, 12:15 PM	#4
Suicide-D Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH. Posts: 1,408	Buy yourself a lift plate from the auto parts house... O'Reilly's has them for about 10.00. I did it both ways... I pulled the front clip in two of the trucks I did this past weekend, the last one I left it on because I didn't feel like putting back on. I pulled the 6 with the tranny and I stabbed the 350 w/ T400 all with the core support on. You will need a floor Jack to go under the tranny tail housing for part of it. It's a tough job to do alone... I would want someone around for safety's sake, but it helps to have another set of hands...bribe one of your friends

01-26-2004, 12:54 PM	#7
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,425	I PERSONALLY FIND IT MUCH EASIER TO PULL MOTORS WITHOUT THE TRANS. ATTACHED, & WITHOUT REMOVING ANY SHEETMETAL. (PAST THE HOOD & RADIATOR) & 9 TIMES OUT OF 10 I'M BY MYSELF. AFTER YOU DO A COUPLE.... IT'S NO BIG DEAL. JOHN __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST

01-26-2004, 01:28 PM	#8
Olden Days Living In The Past Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Rockies Posts: 709	if it has an auto trans its a good idea to find a spare yoke to stick in the tranny so you dont pour fluid all over everything while pulling.

01-26-2004, 10:15 PM	#9
bumpster Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Stillwater, Oklahoma Posts: 63	Like orange72350, I like to pull engine and trans. as one unit. When bringing it out, it's hard to find the balance point, and by the time you clear the core support the the whole mess will be pretty much standing on it's tail. Now is when you need one helper still sober, cause when the trans clears the firewall if it's out of balance someone needs to catch it or you get to spend money on a new windsheild just like I did on my 68. Best of luck, keep us posted. __________________ 72 C10 10 yr.daily driver 68 C10 18 yr.money pit 72 Nova all original 99 H.D. Heritage[sanity check] 71 VW topless bug[summer fun] "When I have the money, I don't have the time ; when I have the time, I don't have the money.

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