Will my frame be strong enough? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

tomsC10R · 02-21-2004, 09:13 PM

This kind of goes along with my question about removing rivets, but not really.

I'm going to post a bunch of pictures. What I'm going to be removing is a reinforcement piece of metal that starts about 6 inches ahead of the spring perch and runs to and is riveted inbetween the the first crossmember behind the rearend and the frame (also where the track bar mount is)

I'm not sure if all our trucks have these or not. I was talking to Ed at MotherTruckers and it sounds like I probably have a 3/4 frame. Oh yeah, I've got extra bracing on my trailing arms also, so I probably do have a 3/4 frame.

Ok, so here's my question... I'm planning on doing a c notch and boxing in the inside of the frame around the c notch. First I need to remove this extra reinforcement and all the metal inbetween it. If I remove this reinforcement plate and never get around to the c notch ( and the extra boxing of the frame) Will my frame still be strong enough?

Please bare with me, I know these pictures are kind of scarey looking.

So what do ya think?

cdowns · 02-21-2004, 09:20 PM

invisable frame ???

tomsC10R · 02-21-2004, 09:21 PM

Drivers side ( Don't ask me what the hose is for, I didn't do it

)

tomsC10R · 02-21-2004, 09:23 PM

Passenger side

tomsC10R · 02-21-2004, 09:26 PM

Driver side
Track bar mount, Frame, Reinforcement plate, Crossmember.
And yes, I have to reroute the brake line too

tomsC10R · 02-21-2004, 09:30 PM

Passenger side
Frame, Reinforcement Plate, Crossmeber

special70gmc · 02-21-2004, 11:40 PM

id fix that before i did anything comprimizing the strength of the frame it looks like its factory but my 3/4 doesnt have that i know for sure -kyle

ZOOMY · 02-22-2004, 12:19 AM

Once you get the reinforcing plates off by the big crossmember I think you'll find some deep pitting on the lower frame rail. That flaky layered stuff between the plate & frame, used to be plate & frame.

tomsC10R · 02-22-2004, 04:09 PM

Thanks,
Any other opinions. I do plan on boxing it in after I get the c notch done. I'm just concerned wheter it'll be safe to drive until I get that done. I guess it depends how much of the frame is still frame huh?

Thanks

Vince M · 02-22-2004, 07:40 PM

You'll want to remove the reinforcing plate and get rid of the rust no mater what. I had a frame that looked like that and when I removed the plate and rust I found the frame was paper thin. You can always bolt the plate back on afterwards.

02-21-2004, 09:13 PM	#1
tomsC10R Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 281	Will my frame be strong enough? This kind of goes along with my question about removing rivets, but not really. I'm going to post a bunch of pictures. What I'm going to be removing is a reinforcement piece of metal that starts about 6 inches ahead of the spring perch and runs to and is riveted inbetween the the first crossmember behind the rearend and the frame (also where the track bar mount is) I'm not sure if all our trucks have these or not. I was talking to Ed at MotherTruckers and it sounds like I probably have a 3/4 frame. Oh yeah, I've got extra bracing on my trailing arms also, so I probably do have a 3/4 frame. Ok, so here's my question... I'm planning on doing a c notch and boxing in the inside of the frame around the c notch. First I need to remove this extra reinforcement and all the metal inbetween it. If I remove this reinforcement plate and never get around to the c notch ( and the extra boxing of the frame) Will my frame still be strong enough? Please bare with me, I know these pictures are kind of scarey looking. So what do ya think? __________________ Tom 1968 C10 LWB. 402 BB, Holley MPI, 700R4. 4wheel Hydroboost Disk Brakes.

02-21-2004, 09:20 PM	#2
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	invisable frame ??? __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

02-21-2004, 09:21 PM	#3
tomsC10R Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 281	Drivers side ( Don't ask me what the hose is for, I didn't do it ) Attached Images __________________ Tom 1968 C10 LWB. 402 BB, Holley MPI, 700R4. 4wheel Hydroboost Disk Brakes.

02-21-2004, 09:23 PM	#4
tomsC10R Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 281	Passenger side Attached Images __________________ Tom 1968 C10 LWB. 402 BB, Holley MPI, 700R4. 4wheel Hydroboost Disk Brakes.

02-21-2004, 09:26 PM	#5
tomsC10R Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 281	Driver side Track bar mount, Frame, Reinforcement plate, Crossmember. And yes, I have to reroute the brake line too Attached Images __________________ Tom 1968 C10 LWB. 402 BB, Holley MPI, 700R4. 4wheel Hydroboost Disk Brakes.

02-21-2004, 09:30 PM	#6
tomsC10R Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 281	Passenger side Frame, Reinforcement Plate, Crossmeber Attached Images __________________ Tom 1968 C10 LWB. 402 BB, Holley MPI, 700R4. 4wheel Hydroboost Disk Brakes.

02-21-2004, 11:40 PM	#7
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	id fix that before i did anything comprimizing the strength of the frame it looks like its factory but my 3/4 doesnt have that i know for sure -kyle __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

02-22-2004, 12:19 AM	#8
ZOOMY Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: WIS Posts: 1,752	RUST Once you get the reinforcing plates off by the big crossmember I think you'll find some deep pitting on the lower frame rail. That flaky layered stuff between the plate & frame, used to be plate & frame.

02-22-2004, 04:09 PM	#9
tomsC10R Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 281	Thanks, Any other opinions. I do plan on boxing it in after I get the c notch done. I'm just concerned wheter it'll be safe to drive until I get that done. I guess it depends how much of the frame is still frame huh? Thanks __________________ Tom 1968 C10 LWB. 402 BB, Holley MPI, 700R4. 4wheel Hydroboost Disk Brakes.

02-22-2004, 07:40 PM	#10
Vince M Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,076	You'll want to remove the reinforcing plate and get rid of the rust no mater what. I had a frame that looked like that and when I removed the plate and rust I found the frame was paper thin. You can always bolt the plate back on afterwards. __________________ ............................................................ 68 Chevy CST SWB w/LS1, carb & 700r4. Golden Anniversary clone with a few improvements.

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