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03-05-2004, 05:53 AM | #1 |
Truck addict
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lincoln, California
Posts: 497
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Do I need a new steering box?
My steering seems to be pretty loose, is there an adjustment on the steering box, or do I need a new one. If I do need to replace it can I just rebuild my existing one? If I can where would I get a rebuild kit for a 72 2wd.
Thanks Jeremy
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1956 Chevy Napco 1972 Cheyenne Super 1970 K20 |
03-05-2004, 08:24 AM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: central pa
Posts: 1,525
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There is an adjusting nut/screw slot on the top of the box this will take the slack out of the wheel. Loosen the nut screw in the adjuster while someone moves the wheel back and forth. don't over tighten then lock down the nut. The play could also be a bad idler arm so make sure it is good before you start.
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72 longhorn c30 502BB/th400/fact air/4.11rear/ custom camper 72 bug(the better half's) under reconstruction 2009 HHR aqua blue 71 GMC k20 350/sm465 2009 Chevy hd3500 6.6 Victory Red crew cab dually Dave & Jeanne |
03-05-2004, 09:24 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Washington State
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Rebuilding one isn't all that bad either. Friend of mine just did one for his son...
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1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo |
03-05-2004, 04:09 PM | #4 |
one set closer
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Memphis TN.
Posts: 722
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STEERING BOX
WHAT IS REQUIRED TO REBUILT A STEERING BOX ANY SPECIAL TOOL AND CAN I GET THE KIT A LOCAL PART STORE SOMEONE PLEASE REPLY THANKS.
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03-05-2004, 04:14 PM | #5 |
Truck addict
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lincoln, California
Posts: 497
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dwaite72lnghrn,
What do I look for to determine a bad idler arm?
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1956 Chevy Napco 1972 Cheyenne Super 1970 K20 |
03-05-2004, 04:19 PM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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B-4 messing with the steering box all balljoints, tierod ends,idler arm and pitman arm should be checked and or replaced tightening up a steering box with a worn out frontend is just going to lead to more problems down the road(asin OOPS my wheels fell off)
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
03-05-2004, 05:36 PM | #7 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Rochester, NH
Posts: 92
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I replaced the steering box in my '72 K20, it was $200 for the part and 3 hours with a buddy. Fixed the mystery steering.
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03-06-2004, 02:08 AM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: central pa
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The idler should not move very far up and down at the joint at the frame end. The tie rods will rotate front to back but should not move in and out from the bolt end. Check the upper ball joints by quickly by tugging back and forth on the top tire you will feel a clunk (this could also be a bad wheel bearing so check that to). The lower ball joint, measure the distance between the control arms then jack the bottom control arm up and measure again any difference and the lower is bad (OEM lowers the grease zerk would move out when bad). This is not technically the way to check all of them but it is a quick way. Someone else can chime in with there checks.
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72 longhorn c30 502BB/th400/fact air/4.11rear/ custom camper 72 bug(the better half's) under reconstruction 2009 HHR aqua blue 71 GMC k20 350/sm465 2009 Chevy hd3500 6.6 Victory Red crew cab dually Dave & Jeanne |
03-06-2004, 06:07 AM | #9 |
Firefighter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Yellville, Ar, USA
Posts: 1,943
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An easy way to tell what the problem is, would be to lay down so you can see the steering box, tie rod ends, pitman arm (Hooked to bottom of steering box) and idler arm (attached to opposite side of frame on passenger side) and have a friend wiggle your steering wheel back and forth, if the steering wheel moves alot and the pitman arm or tie rods don't, then it is in your box or in between the box and pitman arm (As in the case of my truck, which I will be working on this weekend to correct this problem) However if the tie rods move excessively before the wheels move then they could be the problem.
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'72 Chevy SWB 350 Auto '67 GMC LWB 350 4 speed '70 Chevy 4x4 Stepside 350 Auto Yellville, Ar. USA |
03-07-2004, 01:23 AM | #10 |
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Location: MASTIC BEACH, long island, ny
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JEREMY, IF IT IS THE BOX, HERE IS THE CORRECT WAY TO ADJUST IT: WHILE HOLDING THE ADJUSTING SCREW, BACK THE LOCKNUT OUT 1/4 TURN, AND HOLD IT THERE, THEN TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN TILL IT IS JUST SNUG, THEN BACK IT OUT 1/4 TO 1/3 TURN, HOLD IT, AND TIGHTEN THE LOCKNUT, AND YOU ARE FINISHED. YOU DO NOT NEED A SECOND PERSON TO HELP YOU, THIS IS A ONE PERSON JOB. THIS IS DIRECTLY FROM THE G.M. SERVICE MANUAL, AND WORKS QUITE WELL. WE DO OUR BUSSES EVERY 50,000 MILES, AND HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM. THIS PROCEDURE IS ALSO FOR THE MANUAL STEERING BOXES.
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MIKE '67 C/10 2WD LWB '89 MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS LS COUNTRY TILL THE DAY I DIE |
03-07-2004, 01:25 PM | #11 |
ready for reassembly
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Barrie ONT, Canada
Posts: 413
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adjusting the screw will help if your gear isn't too warn already. I adjusted the screw on mine, because I had a tons of play in the wheel. It made little to no difference, just made it slightly harder to turn the wheel. also, on my k-10 the pitman arm "clamps" around the out put shaft (doesn't apply to c-series, but...) and it was loose. Tightening that up made a much bigger difference than adjusting the screw.......just my $02
Jason
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stock 71 4x4 2003 Jeep Liberty, rocky mountain edition I'm obsessed, and wouldn't have it any other way! |
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