How are these rust problems typically fixed? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**lock** · 04-08-2004, 08:36 PM

Are there replacement panels or is it all custom sheetmetal work? Curious how these 2 problems are normally fixed.

**lock** · 04-08-2004, 08:38 PM

and 2

*67Fleetsidedream* · 04-08-2004, 08:45 PM

Cut out the bad, make patch panel, weld in.

**JIMs70GMC** · 04-08-2004, 08:56 PM

There's panels for the second pic. Will be doing it on mine soon.

Low68 · 04-08-2004, 09:28 PM

Like Jim said, there is a panel for the second one. The first one should not be hard to make a panel for. Cut out all the rust and then make a larger panel a little bigger than what you cut of the cab. (Trim to fit). Pound it to shape roughly and then tack weld it into place starting on one side and weld up to the curve on the cab. you will probably want someones help to push on the panel as you weld or you can try to do it yourself. Just take your time and make sure the panel is in the right spot before you tack weld it. Good luck
Low68

**lock** · 04-08-2004, 10:42 PM

Thanks everyone. Didnt realize there was a panel for 2nd piece. Looking forward to doing this. Just now learning to weld. Been wanting to learn for many years.

Is it called the "inner lower cowl". Just browising some parts magazines looking for the right sheetmetal part.

Stepsides 4Ever · 04-09-2004, 04:43 AM

I just did mine this past weekend. It looked worse than picture number two before I started. I took my air cutoff tool and cut the rusted metal away so I had a straight line of good metal to weld to. I made a template out of heavyweight paper (I used a hanging folder) and, using the cutoff tool again, cut a patch out of a piece of sheetmetal that was similar in thickness. I ground the patch until it was a good fit, and then butt-welded it in place. I like to have a little gap along my weld seam so that when I grind the bead down I still have plenty of penetration. If it were in a more visible area I would have skim-coated it with some filler and sanded it smooth, but I didn't bother...I just painted it and used some silicone to seal it to the floor pan. You can't hardly tell it's been patched.

There was no seam sealer applied at the factory on the passenger side on the seam that is under the water drain at the corner of picture #1, and the water wicked into the corner of the cab where it collected in that low spot the Chevy engineers wisely thought to include in our trucks over the last 35 years.

When you get done patching, be sure to clean out your cowl drain area and run some water into that area to make sure you find the source of the water leak into the cab.

vtblazer · 04-09-2004, 06:17 AM

I believe there's a cowl panel available also, if not find a donor firewall.
Have fun

Blue Beard · 04-09-2004, 07:56 AM

Get a LMC catalog, very food exploded views of what's available...

71402BB · 04-09-2004, 08:44 AM

Wow, I didn't realize that they made a cowl patch panel......

Broken_down? · 04-10-2004, 01:42 PM

I recieved the new LMC in the mail a few days ago and I looked @ the patch panels they offer, but I could not find a replacment patch panel for #2. If you have the new LMC cat panels are on page 20. if it is there then correct me plz.

RIch

04-08-2004, 08:56 PM	#4
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	There's panels for the second pic. Will be doing it on mine soon. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

04-08-2004, 09:28 PM	#5
Low68 Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 758	Like Jim said, there is a panel for the second one. The first one should not be hard to make a panel for. Cut out all the rust and then make a larger panel a little bigger than what you cut of the cab. (Trim to fit). Pound it to shape roughly and then tack weld it into place starting on one side and weld up to the curve on the cab. you will probably want someones help to push on the panel as you weld or you can try to do it yourself. Just take your time and make sure the panel is in the right spot before you tack weld it. Good luck Low68 __________________ Build Thread

04-08-2004, 10:42 PM	#6
lock Insert funny comment. Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Concord NC Posts: 621	Thanks everyone. Didnt realize there was a panel for 2nd piece. Looking forward to doing this. Just now learning to weld. Been wanting to learn for many years. Is it called the "inner lower cowl". Just browising some parts magazines looking for the right sheetmetal part. Last edited by lock; 04-08-2004 at 10:54 PM.

04-09-2004, 06:17 AM	#8
vtblazer Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Central Vermont Posts: 8,538	Panels I believe there's a cowl panel available also, if not find a donor firewall. Have fun

04-09-2004, 07:56 AM	#9
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,834	Get a LMC catalog, very food exploded views of what's available... __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

04-08-2004, 08:36 PM	#1
lock Insert funny comment. Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Concord NC Posts: 621	How are these rust problems typically fixed? Are there replacement panels or is it all custom sheetmetal work? Curious how these 2 problems are normally fixed. Attached Images __________________ ------------ - Mark -My Build Thread... -68 C10, LT1 - Undergoing Frame off resto -86 IROC-Z T72 turbo 355, M6 -70 Camaro http://www.iroc-ss.com

04-08-2004, 08:38 PM	#2
lock Insert funny comment. Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Concord NC Posts: 621	and 2 Attached Images

04-08-2004, 08:45 PM	#3
67Fleetsidedream Wiseass secured himself a BAN Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: MOON!!! Posts: 2,282	Cut out the bad, make patch panel, weld in.

04-09-2004, 04:43 AM	#7
Stepsides 4Ever Stepsides Are Bedder Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Norco, CA Posts: 238	I just did mine this past weekend. It looked worse than picture number two before I started. I took my air cutoff tool and cut the rusted metal away so I had a straight line of good metal to weld to. I made a template out of heavyweight paper (I used a hanging folder) and, using the cutoff tool again, cut a patch out of a piece of sheetmetal that was similar in thickness. I ground the patch until it was a good fit, and then butt-welded it in place. I like to have a little gap along my weld seam so that when I grind the bead down I still have plenty of penetration. If it were in a more visible area I would have skim-coated it with some filler and sanded it smooth, but I didn't bother...I just painted it and used some silicone to seal it to the floor pan. You can't hardly tell it's been patched. There was no seam sealer applied at the factory on the passenger side on the seam that is under the water drain at the corner of picture #1, and the water wicked into the corner of the cab where it collected in that low spot the Chevy engineers wisely thought to include in our trucks over the last 35 years. When you get done patching, be sure to clean out your cowl drain area and run some water into that area to make sure you find the source of the water leak into the cab.

04-09-2004, 08:44 AM	#10
71402BB now thats a true COON DOG Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Franconia, NH Posts: 1,977	Wow, I didn't realize that they made a cowl patch panel...... __________________ current project 67 402BB stout th350 3.08's with a locker. Plan on tubs 18.5's out back! (thanks Burnsman!) 71 SWB Stepside, was a 250, now is a 402 Big Block with 4 speed and 3.73's ( was crushed by a tree, bed sold, motor pulled) was my first truck!... oh well... 72 LWB 4x4 350 4-speed 3.08's posi wearing army olive drab green (SOLD!) 68 BURB 50TH LOOKALIKE work in progress, soon to have 250-I6 with a 3-speed on the tree 4.11's and posi ( currently sitting in back yard tarped awaiting time, $$$, and lots of love!) 67 1 TON- work truck 396 sm 420 4-speed, flat bed 4.57 gears "big red" (my first landscape truck, very rusty and crusty! but still gets the job done when needed!)

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