HELP!! Is it worth swapping '72 front suspension for '80?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Deuce · 12-26-2004, 06:57 PM

I am using a 72 chev swb frame for my build-up, and I also have a complete 1980 front suspension crossmember and all. The truck is stripped down to the frame with no motor in it so it would be really easy now.
My question is............is it worth swapping out the 72 set-up for the 80?? The local speed shop is having a 10% off sale so I want to order my spindles and coils and I need to know if I should buy the 72 spindles or the 73-87 spindles??
What do you guys think??
Thanks!!

Vince M · 12-26-2004, 07:22 PM

I think the later design improved on the A-arms and mounting. If I was in your place I would swap to the later. I've replaced my 68 with 72 stuff and if I was to do it al over again I would put in the later. I think the A-arm mounting and the pivot bushing design sucks on the earlier years. OK that's my $.02.

Deuce · 12-26-2004, 07:42 PM

I've heard something along these lines. Better bushing in the 73-87 front ends??
Thanks for your input, I'll order the 73-87 parts for the front end.

Longhorn Man · 12-26-2004, 11:06 PM

Swap steering gear boxes too, the later one had variable rate steering.
I plan on upgrading the Longhorn one day too.

**lolife99** · 12-26-2004, 11:23 PM

A vote for the '73-up stuff! Parts are CHEAPER and more readily available. Also the benefit of rubber bushed a-arms. If you're going to make it low,... you can use Belltech's 3" drop spindles, also.

gunnersm8 · 12-26-2004, 11:38 PM

how difficult is this conversion? pretty much bolt in?

Deuce · 12-26-2004, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunnersm8

how difficult is this conversion? pretty much bolt in?

Might have to drill a couple holes, but other than that it's pretty much a bolt-in.........................I think

HeavyD · 12-27-2004, 01:41 AM

Its a bolt in if you don't change crossmembers - just bolt the a-arms (think they are called that) to the old crossmember. I had to bend new brake lines, but other than that it was a bolt in deal.

Deuce · 12-27-2004, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeavyD

Its a bolt in if you don't change crossmembers - just bolt the a-arms (think they are called that) to the old crossmember. I had to bend new brake lines, but other than that it was a bolt in deal.

I'm using the whole x-member so I guess I might have to drill a couple holes??

modifiedGMC · 12-27-2004, 07:11 AM

I put complete front suspension (spindle to spindle) from a 79 C10 in my 69 GMC and only had to drill one hole on each side. I had to redo a couple of brake lines though. Even used the power steering box but you will have to slightly modify the driver side bumper brace to clear the steering box. Other than that it's fairly easy swap.

Blue Beard · 12-27-2004, 08:50 AM

Any ideas on a later model rearend to complete the swap?

arkracing · 12-27-2004, 09:37 AM

i would have stuck with the '72 set-up.
the steel a-arm bushings would give better handling...maybe a slightly rougher ride..but a stiffer suspension. - besides it's already set up for disc. if you didn't have a disc set up and everything...i would say change it to the later one.

and most of the front suspension parts (other than the a-arm bushings) are the same as the 73+ i'm pretty sure rotors, calipers, ball joints, tie rods etc fit from '72-'87 (don't quote me on it though...i was federal mogul's parts website..and you can look up different years for thier "Moog" suspension/steering stuff..and they carried the same part numbers for a '75 and a '72 - other than the ctrl arms shafts/bushings.

if you want a nicer ride yeh go with the rubber bushing a-arms and put new energy suspension bushings in them or stock bushings for that matter

Vince M · 12-27-2004, 11:14 AM

If you want a bolt in rear end that is 5 on 5 pattern you can't beat the 71-72 axles. Later models still used the 5 on 5 but they won't just bolt in. You'd have to rework them a bit. I'm not sure on widths either.

HeavyD · 12-27-2004, 11:51 AM

Yeah, proper 71-72 rear axles are the way to go. Just buy new drums, shoes, seals, whatever else needs replacing on your brakes, and slip them in.

gunnersm8 · 12-27-2004, 12:44 PM

i guess i shouldve asked this earlier, but it just now came to me, how much difference is there from 69- 72? Ive got a 69, and im wanting to redo the front end, and for cost sake( 73-87s are a plenty out here) just taking the front end off of a later model. whole new ballgame now?

Deuce · 12-27-2004, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunnersm8

i guess i shouldve asked this earlier, but it just now came to me, how much difference is there from 69- 72? Ive got a 69, and im wanting to redo the front end, and for cost sake( 73-87s are a plenty out here) just taking the front end off of a later model. whole new ballgame now?

Thays what I did. Bought a Burb with Rally wheels and new tires for $200. Sold the tranny for $150, sold the gas tank for $50. Kept the wheels and complete front susp for extra's for the truck.
Once I get the motor/trans out of the IROC, the frame comes back in the garage and the "fun" begins!!!!

gunnersm8 · 12-27-2004, 12:56 PM

so its a direct fit kind of thing, cool. thanks.

crazy longhorn · 12-27-2004, 02:03 PM

most guys are going 73-up on the front suspension on the 1/2 ton trucks for easier to find used disc brake parts, & cheaper rebuild parts......however, the old steel bushings/shafts are IMO a better deal. you wont have neer the flex in the front end with the steel bushings as rubber or urathane, & those steel bushings will last d@mn neer forever (if you keep them greased)

As far as swapping the spindles, no problem.....73-up changed the upper ball joint, & the outer tierod ends.....that is all you need to change , to use the 73 on spindles on the 71-72 trucks. best of luck,crazyL

Deuce · 12-28-2004, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn

most guys are going 73-up on the front suspension on the 1/2 ton trucks for easier to find used disc brake parts, & cheaper rebuild parts......however, the old steel bushings/shafts are IMO a better deal. you wont have neer the flex in the front end with the steel bushings as rubber or urathane, & those steel bushings will last d@mn neer forever (if you keep them greased)

As far as swapping the spindles, no problem.....73-up changed the upper ball joint, & the outer tierod ends.....that is all you need to change , to use the 73 on spindles on the 71-72 trucks. best of luck,crazyL

Went from $425 for spindles to $200 for the 73-87 3" drop spindles. The savings just about paid to lower the rest of the truck

crazy longhorn · 12-28-2004, 04:52 PM

My truck is also setup for 73-87 spindles, however the orig crossmember is used, as are the orig upper a arms. The lower arms were swaped for a 71-72 , 1/2 ton set, as the truck was also swapped from 3/4 to 1/2 to spec. I still dont have dropped spindles, but at the time i did the swap/drop.....Belltech , & Western were about all that offered drop spindles for the trucks(73 up.....none for the older ones). I still am glad that i kept the old style arms & bushings tho......it was a good design(solid ,stiff, & wear forever....almost

) if you are rebuilding, no doubt that the shafts & bushings will cost more on the old steel shaft/screw setup, but there is no unwanted movement in the bushings, as compaired to rubber or urathane. Some guys may say they ride "harsher", but i have driven the old trucks for a long time (wouldnt know the diff in ride if it bit me

) for a dropped truck, my old Longhorn rides decent. The thing that i did notice change the ride the most , was a set of urathane cab bushings

if your crossmember & bushings are in good shape, save yourself some work (just swap the ball joints & tierod assys, & use the cheaper spindles

.... crazyL

GlennBrittain · 12-28-2004, 08:20 PM

Thanks to all for the info posted here, helped me make up my mind on what to do on a 69 frame I will be building sometime next year. I will go with the 73 crosmember and front end. I have a 700r4 change out on my beater 69 fleetside that needs to be completed before I start on the frame project.

Deuce · 12-29-2004, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlennBrittain

Thanks to all for the info posted here, helped me make up my mind on what to do on a 69 frame I will be building sometime next year. I will go with the 73 crosmember and front end. I have a 700r4 change out on my beater 69 fleetside that needs to be completed before I start on the frame project.

I think it should be pretty easy. I'm using the 80 motor mounts too.

**53burb** · 12-29-2004, 10:40 AM

Isn't the power steering box better as well?? I believe they use a variable assist power steering box.

Deuce · 12-29-2004, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 53burb

Isn't the power steering box better as well?? I believe they use a variable assist power steering box.

From what I've read it is supposed to be a much better piece to use. And you are right they are variable assist.

gunnersm8 · 01-01-2005, 10:38 AM

ok im bringing this back up, as i just read some other post about using 3/4 ton upper? i better get my **** in one sock here...
if i get the whole front end, it will go on, for the most part, a couple of holes drilled/oblonged at most right? is that using the 69 x member or the late model? anything special needed?

12-26-2004, 06:57 PM	#1
Deuce Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Calgary, Alberta,Canada Posts: 1,595	HELP!! Is it worth swapping '72 front suspension for '80?? I am using a 72 chev swb frame for my build-up, and I also have a complete 1980 front suspension crossmember and all. The truck is stripped down to the frame with no motor in it so it would be really easy now. My question is............is it worth swapping out the 72 set-up for the 80?? The local speed shop is having a 10% off sale so I want to order my spindles and coils and I need to know if I should buy the 72 spindles or the 73-87 spindles?? What do you guys think?? Thanks!! __________________ I know what your thinking.......I have ESPN. Sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way. Fesler Built 1968 Chevy C10....Must resist the urge to mess with it!!

12-26-2004, 07:22 PM	#2
Vince M Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,076	I think the later design improved on the A-arms and mounting. If I was in your place I would swap to the later. I've replaced my 68 with 72 stuff and if I was to do it al over again I would put in the later. I think the A-arm mounting and the pivot bushing design sucks on the earlier years. OK that's my $.02. __________________ ............................................................ 68 Chevy CST SWB w/LS1, carb & 700r4. Golden Anniversary clone with a few improvements.

12-26-2004, 07:42 PM	#3
Deuce Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Calgary, Alberta,Canada Posts: 1,595	I've heard something along these lines. Better bushing in the 73-87 front ends?? Thanks for your input, I'll order the 73-87 parts for the front end. __________________ I know what your thinking.......I have ESPN. Sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way. Fesler Built 1968 Chevy C10....Must resist the urge to mess with it!!

12-26-2004, 11:23 PM	#5
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,701	A vote for the '73-up stuff! Parts are CHEAPER and more readily available. Also the benefit of rubber bushed a-arms. If you're going to make it low,... you can use Belltech's 3" drop spindles, also. __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

12-27-2004, 01:41 AM	#8
HeavyD Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Wakaw, Sask, Canada Posts: 3,180	Its a bolt in if you don't change crossmembers - just bolt the a-arms (think they are called that) to the old crossmember. I had to bend new brake lines, but other than that it was a bolt in deal. __________________ "You can take the man out of PA, but you can't take PA out of the man"

12-26-2004, 11:06 PM	#4
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Swap steering gear boxes too, the later one had variable rate steering. I plan on upgrading the Longhorn one day too.

12-26-2004, 11:38 PM	#6
gunnersm8 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: virginia beach va Posts: 87	how difficult is this conversion? pretty much bolt in?

12-27-2004, 07:11 AM	#10
modifiedGMC Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Walker Co. Alabama Posts: 474	front suspension I put complete front suspension (spindle to spindle) from a 79 C10 in my 69 GMC and only had to drill one hole on each side. I had to redo a couple of brake lines though. Even used the power steering box but you will have to slightly modify the driver side bumper brace to clear the steering box. Other than that it's fairly easy swap.

12-27-2004, 08:50 AM	#11
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,831	Any ideas on a later model rearend to complete the swap? __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

12-27-2004, 09:37 AM	#12
arkracing Weekend Warrior Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: CT Posts: 1,787	i would have stuck with the '72 set-up. the steel a-arm bushings would give better handling...maybe a slightly rougher ride..but a stiffer suspension. - besides it's already set up for disc. if you didn't have a disc set up and everything...i would say change it to the later one. and most of the front suspension parts (other than the a-arm bushings) are the same as the 73+ i'm pretty sure rotors, calipers, ball joints, tie rods etc fit from '72-'87 (don't quote me on it though...i was federal mogul's parts website..and you can look up different years for thier "Moog" suspension/steering stuff..and they carried the same part numbers for a '75 and a '72 - other than the ctrl arms shafts/bushings. if you want a nicer ride yeh go with the rubber bushing a-arms and put new energy suspension bushings in them or stock bushings for that matter __________________ -'07 GMC Sierra K2500HD -'66 C10 Suburban -'68/'71 K20 Service Bed Project -'69 Chevy C30 Mason Dump -'33Ford P/U 396ChevyPowered

12-27-2004, 11:14 AM	#13
Vince M Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,076	If you want a bolt in rear end that is 5 on 5 pattern you can't beat the 71-72 axles. Later models still used the 5 on 5 but they won't just bolt in. You'd have to rework them a bit. I'm not sure on widths either. __________________ ............................................................ 68 Chevy CST SWB w/LS1, carb & 700r4. Golden Anniversary clone with a few improvements.

12-27-2004, 11:51 AM	#14
HeavyD Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Wakaw, Sask, Canada Posts: 3,180	Yeah, proper 71-72 rear axles are the way to go. Just buy new drums, shoes, seals, whatever else needs replacing on your brakes, and slip them in. __________________ "You can take the man out of PA, but you can't take PA out of the man"

12-27-2004, 12:44 PM	#15
gunnersm8 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: virginia beach va Posts: 87	i guess i shouldve asked this earlier, but it just now came to me, how much difference is there from 69- 72? Ive got a 69, and im wanting to redo the front end, and for cost sake( 73-87s are a plenty out here) just taking the front end off of a later model. whole new ballgame now?

12-27-2004, 12:56 PM	#17
gunnersm8 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: virginia beach va Posts: 87	so its a direct fit kind of thing, cool. thanks.

12-27-2004, 02:03 PM	#18
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	most guys are going 73-up on the front suspension on the 1/2 ton trucks for easier to find used disc brake parts, & cheaper rebuild parts......however, the old steel bushings/shafts are IMO a better deal. you wont have neer the flex in the front end with the steel bushings as rubber or urathane, & those steel bushings will last d@mn neer forever (if you keep them greased) As far as swapping the spindles, no problem.....73-up changed the upper ball joint, & the outer tierod ends.....that is all you need to change , to use the 73 on spindles on the 71-72 trucks. best of luck,crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....



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12-28-2004, 04:52 PM	#20
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	My truck is also setup for 73-87 spindles, however the orig crossmember is used, as are the orig upper a arms. The lower arms were swaped for a 71-72 , 1/2 ton set, as the truck was also swapped from 3/4 to 1/2 to spec. I still dont have dropped spindles, but at the time i did the swap/drop.....Belltech , & Western were about all that offered drop spindles for the trucks(73 up.....none for the older ones). I still am glad that i kept the old style arms & bushings tho......it was a good design(solid ,stiff, & wear forever....almost ) if you are rebuilding, no doubt that the shafts & bushings will cost more on the old steel shaft/screw setup, but there is no unwanted movement in the bushings, as compaired to rubber or urathane. Some guys may say they ride "harsher", but i have driven the old trucks for a long time (wouldnt know the diff in ride if it bit me ) for a dropped truck, my old Longhorn rides decent. The thing that i did notice change the ride the most , was a set of urathane cab bushings if your crossmember & bushings are in good shape, save yourself some work (just swap the ball joints & tierod assys, & use the cheaper spindles .... crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

12-28-2004, 08:20 PM	#21
GlennBrittain Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Panola County Texas Posts: 401	Thanks to all for the info posted here, helped me make up my mind on what to do on a 69 frame I will be building sometime next year. I will go with the 73 crosmember and front end. I have a 700r4 change out on my beater 69 fleetside that needs to be completed before I start on the frame project.

12-29-2004, 10:40 AM	#23
53burb Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Queen Creek, AZ Posts: 1,010	Isn't the power steering box better as well?? I believe they use a variable assist power steering box.

01-01-2005, 10:38 AM	#25
gunnersm8 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: virginia beach va Posts: 87	ok im bringing this back up, as i just read some other post about using 3/4 ton upper? i better get my **** in one sock here... if i get the whole front end, it will go on, for the most part, a couple of holes drilled/oblonged at most right? is that using the 69 x member or the late model? anything special needed?

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