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01-15-2005, 05:03 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Butler PA
Posts: 3,034
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brake line suggestions
i have my trans im my truck now so im almost ready to drive it around a little...but have no brakes...i am gonna get a roll and a bender and a double flare tool and make my own...anything special i need to know?
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67 c-10, 400 SB, TH350, 4.10 gears, Blazer tank,camaro tach, sidemarker fuel fill (soon) WTB: stepside parts, 67 front end parts, 67 small window cab. posi for 3.73 or 4.10 for 12 bolt and 10 bolt. |
01-15-2005, 06:10 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Ark City KS
Posts: 505
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If you've never done it before, get some extra tube to practice on, and watch out for cracks when you do the second flare.
Good luck
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71 Chevy C10 "The Rust Bucket" 72 Chevy C10 apart in the garage 02 WS6 T/A Fast Black and bad@$$ 93 Nissan Pathfinder "Emily" Totaled RIP girl 05 Jeep Grand Cherokee-HEMI powered 87 Iroc Z28 305 TPI auto (crying out for an LS1 swap) |
01-15-2005, 06:33 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 865
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I agree, just be patient. Depending upon which lines your bending, it can take a long time to get them right. The line from the master cyl to the front to rear line is a bear. I think mine was close to 84", and just when you think you've got it, you'll screw it up (at least I did). I actually had to pull my engine out to get that line in right.
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01-15-2005, 07:21 PM | #4 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,002
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Add a couple drops of oil to the tubing when you go to do the second flare with the insert. Coat hangers make good mock up templates.
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01-15-2005, 07:44 PM | #5 |
Merciless Butcher
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CC Nevada
Posts: 1,447
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I use a few drops of brake fluid instead of oil.
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01-15-2005, 11:15 PM | #6 |
Out draggin'
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pitman,NJ
Posts: 1,574
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I tried it and I didn't have much luck with the double flare. It kept cracking on me(didn't try the brakefluid trick tho) so I said screw it and ordered a set of prebent stainless steel lines with stainless fittings. Never have to mess with them again...
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91 GMC Xcab LB-Bags/bd/caddy clip SOLD 72 C10 Cheyenne Super LWB SOLD 92 GMC K1500 Burb 72 C10 Burb (ex. Cheesewagon)SOLD 72 C20 Burb parts truck 71 C10 Burb "project" |
01-16-2005, 01:00 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Butler PA
Posts: 3,034
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i've done the flares before...never had one crack...
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67 c-10, 400 SB, TH350, 4.10 gears, Blazer tank,camaro tach, sidemarker fuel fill (soon) WTB: stepside parts, 67 front end parts, 67 small window cab. posi for 3.73 or 4.10 for 12 bolt and 10 bolt. |
01-16-2005, 01:05 PM | #8 |
Franko72
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Cincinnati,Ohio
Posts: 471
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A good flaring tool makes the difference. I like my rigid flaring tool.
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1972 C20 cheyenne Super 402 BB/400 turbo LWB A/C Tilt, Cruise Control, Saddle tanks, Tach My Home Page Better to burn out than it is to rust |
01-16-2005, 01:39 PM | #9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,076
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I bought a stainless steel brake line set but I installed rear discs so I had to modify the rear set. I bought a Rigid double flare kit and a tubing bender and I had no problems at all. I lubed the flaring tool also as mentioned above. From the Inline Tube web site I found that you should not use a tubing cutter to cut the tube because it hardens the tube and makes it hard to double flare. I cut mine with a hack saw, cleaned and squared up the end and like I said had no problems. Having the right tools makes all the difference. I was really worried about the stainless but everything went well. Steel lines are much easier to work with.
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