Help with Power steering leaking on a 1984 C10

[woody96]

Help, I have a pretty good leak going on a 1984 c10 with PS......cannot tell if it is from either of the hoses, or from the PS pump, or the PS gearbox (right terminology?).....there is fluid dropping off of both hoses, also the PS pump as well drops falling off the bottom of the front of the PS gearbox...

.......can anyone give me some scoop here kinda where to start---replace the PS pump first--it is pretty cheap---$45 from Carquest, as well as the hoses?
Could the PS gearbox be leaking?-----is the PS gearbox expensive????----How do I replace, rebuild that?

Am I using the right terminology (PS pump/PS gearbox) in all of this.......basically---HELP!!! My Haynes is little help especially with pictures......

[apstguy]

First you need to figure out where it is coming from. Start the truck up and look at the parts. Have someone rev the engine and move the steering wheel back and forth. Put pressure on the system by keeping the truck stationary and moving the wheel back and forth (keep in mind this will leave marks on the ground so don't do it in the driveway)

[woody96]

Shouldn't I just go ahead and just replace the pump and hoses since they are pretty cheap...$45 for the pump and approx $25-30 for the hoses?? I am a one mane show and don't have anyone that can help me eyeball this thing........I was just thinking that since these are probably original parts....replacing them is probably a no-brainer since they are inexpensive....

Do I have the part names correct when referrring to the pump and the gearbox...(there is a gearbox looking thingy that is off to the side and down front of the pump that articulates the steering arms........)

[60-66 Nut]

I guess you could go ahead and replace it all, but you may not need to. If the leak is that bad, you should be able to find it by yourself. Wipe everything as dry as you can with old rags, then start the truck and let it idle(high idle if possible). Grab the steering shaft on the big slip-joint under the hood and turn it back and fourth. You should see the culprit(s) then. Just be careful it doesn't spray fluid in your face.

60-66 Nut

[rolson1039]

why dont ya take a can of carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner and spray down the outside of the pump hoses and box take a rag and clean off everything. once ya do that it will be a heck of alot easier to eyeball EXACTLY where the leak is .... i would also check the lines for tightness
you will find tho when you can see whats going on youll get alot better handle on things i wouldnt change anything unles it needs it

[woody96]

THX all....... ......Boy, I know what you are saying---I was just thinking that while I am replacing some hoses, why not do the pump if it is cheap--it is----$40-----anyway,s I did just as you suggested and it looks like the main/bigger hose is leaking at the fitting on the pump and the hose going from the pump to the Power steering gear/drive is leaking some.........other ideas?? Only one of these lines is under pressure right??

[60-66 Nut]

Yes, the one with clamps on it is just the return hose. If you replace the pressure hose, you might as well replace the return hose while you have the fluid drained. The return hose is just 3/8" trans cooler/ps return hose, most parts stores keep it. Just don't let them sell you fuel hose, it'll work for a while but then the hot oil will swell it up like a dead bullfrog.

60-66 Nut

[woody96]

Thanks!.......Since the pump is cheap, should I just go ahead and swap it out too since I will need to replace the fluids? Pump is $40 basically.........

[60-66 Nut]

That's up to you. If it's not leaking, I wouldn't fool with it, but that's just me. Just be aware that most parts store reman pumps don't come with the pulley, because in most trucks the pulley has to be removed to swap the brackets over. It takes a special tool to remove and re-install the pulley without damaging it. Also, I have seen some pumps that don't come with the reservoir/housing, and they can be a pain to remove. Again, that has to be your decision. True, it's not alot of money, just make sure you know what you're getting into. Let us know if you need any more help.

60-66 NUT

[woody96]

THX for the great advice...replaced the pressure hose and the non-pressured return hose......the pump was fine....now it seems, there is a leak from where the return hose goes into the steering gear (is this right terminology?...it is the long cylinder piece that seems to get fluid and works the steering arms....) It is leaking from where the smaller hose goes into the steering gear........then running down the steering gear and dripping on the floor.......it is still leaking even with the new hose and hose bracket.

[60-66 Nut]

The return hose fits onto a 3/8 metal line which screws into the steering gear. I think there is an o-ring on that line where it goes into the gear. Make sure the nut is tight, if it is then maybe the o-ring is cut. Are you sure it's the return line and not the pressure hose? The reason I ask, they screw in close together on the gear, and sometimes it's hard to tell. Maybe the o-ring on the new pressure line is damaged or missing.

60-66 Nut

[woody96]

the hydraulic line is fine......was factory made to fit the steering pump and steering gear......fits fine, and not leaking.

there is no metal fitting on the ends of the return line....just fits over the steering gear connect for it, and the metal line for the pump.......held in place and tight on the steering gear with a hose clamp....the shop just used typical line for the return line...it was like that in the old retrun line...fitted and held tight on the steering gear with a hose clamp.........this is the line that is leaking a bit .........there is supposed to be some kind of metal fitting on each end of the return line where it goes into the steering gear and the pump?? Am I getting this all confused??

[woody96]

Originally Posted by 60-66 Nut

The return hose fits onto a 3/8 metal line which screws into the steering gear. I think there is an o-ring on that line where it goes into the gear. Make sure the nut is tight, if it is then maybe the o-ring is cut. Are you sure it's the return line and not the pressure hose? The reason I ask, they screw in close together on the gear, and sometimes it's hard to tell. Maybe the o-ring on the new pressure line is damaged or missing.

60-66 Nut

The return line is defintely the hose leaking a bit where it fits/clamps onto that metal fitting on the steering gear...it is secured with a hose clamp on that fitting.......

[60-66 Nut]

If I understand you correctly, it's leaking where the hose clamps on to the metal tube. This sounds strange, a new piece of hose the correct size should fit tight enough on the tube that it should not leak, even without a clamp, because there is virtually no pressure there. If this is correct, then there must be a problem with the hose or the tube. Is the hose pushed on far enough? It should be at least 1/2" or so past the barb on the end of the tube, then the clamp should be just behind the barb. When you say "the shop" used a regular piece of hose, do you mean you did it or someone else? If someone else did it, I'd bring it back and get them to look at it.

60-66 Nut

[woody96]

Had a local shop do this......I am going to check this close again and see if the hose is indeed leaking where you suggest and where I think it is....cannot believe like you, if the hose is correct size and it is over the barb correctly, that it'd leak at all.........BTW, what recourse do I have if it turns out WORST CASE, that the steering gear is leaking....UGH/Scary!!!

[60-66 Nut]

Steering gear leaks are not uncommon, I've seen lots of them leak. The seal kits are not very expensive for them, but I have no idea what a shop would charge to kit one, I've always did my own. It's definatley not a job I would suggest doing yourself if you've never done it before. You can ask your shop what they would charge to do it, you might be cheaper with a reman. This is of course IF it is indeed leaking, it might still be just your hose.

60-66 Nut

[woody96]

How much for a remanufactured one you think??? Expensive? I would think a shop might hit you up oretty good for labor charges for a rebuild......
BTW, thanks for the great scoop...I may have to hit you up on changing out door hinges and adjusting the door striker....my drivers door is sagging some......

[60-66 Nut]

One of the local parts stores has them for 150.00 exchange, and they keep them in stock. Not too bad, really. I've seen people pay over half that or more for junkyard boxes, and have them leak again in no time. At least with a reman you have more than the usual "guaranteed to work" warranty that most junkyards give.

60-66 Nut

[woody96]

THX!!! Hey, like I asked, do you know anything about fixing sagging doors??

[60-66 Nut]

Been a while since I changed hinges on that body style, but as I recall you have to take the fenders off to replace the whole hinge. Sometimes changing the bushings and pins will take up most of the slack. On my old '78 3/4 ton I cheated on the top hinge by loosening the hinge-to-body bolts that I could get to without removing the fender(one is reached from inside the cab), then I used a piece of two-by-four with a big hammer and bumped the top hinge forward until the door shut like I wanted and re-tightened the bolts. The slack is still there but it doesn't hurt anything, besides it's just my old workhorse, and the body looks like crap anyway. I wouldn't do that on a nice truck.

60-66 Nut

[woody96]

THX, well, it is an '84, and in very good condition.....I was hoping to do this without taking off the Fender..........can I adjust some with just the striker bolt??