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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Covington,Ga
Posts: 453
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Help carb probelm I think
Ok I have a new goodwrench performance 350 the one that comes with everything from the pan to the carb. The carb is a holley 600 the one that came on it. The probelm is when you just stomp it from dead stop or while moving it stalls out almost to the point of killing the motor. What do I look at first, carb, choke, timing,what? I just changed the plugs and installed a 700r4. It did the same thing before the 700r4 maybe not as bad but it still did it. Thanks for any help!!!!!!!!!!
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72 C-10 |
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#2 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Actually, this will sound stupid, but it sounds like a clogged or bad fuel filter. Thing is, I'm still not well-versed enough with these trucks to know if they even have one. I remember my '85 Grand Am had the exact same problem; wound up being the fuel filter.
Being these things aren't fuel-injected, I can't see why you'd have a fuel filter so I'll just shutup now.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Covington,Ga
Posts: 453
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Thanks but yes I have a fuel filter at carb, the clear type. Installed it at the same time as motor. Less than 1600 miles on both. Any other ideas anybody?
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72 C-10 |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Garland TX Dallas area
Posts: 658
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If you have HEI it could be the wire going from the pick up to the control module in the distributor. I went nuts trying to figure out the same type of problem when I punched it the wire would lose contact for a second then and the car felt like it just cut off then the wires would contact and it would go it would not do it under normal driving conditions.
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1998 Pontiac Grad Prix GTP 1969 C10 396 TH400 3.08 posi |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 79
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After the stall does the engine seem to catch up? Also is this a 350HO motor?
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Covington,Ga
Posts: 453
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Yes it stalls and it will catch back up. It's the GOODWRENCH Performace 350 Deluxe crate engine. I just looked it up and it is the 350HO with 330 hp. Any ideas? And thanks for the coil wire idea but I checked that already.
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72 C-10 |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Covington,Ga
Posts: 453
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Correction it's not goodwrench it just says GM Performace 350 HO Deluxe. It's the one in summit and Jegs.
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72 C-10 |
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#8 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: May 2004
Location: Queen Creek, AZ
Posts: 1,005
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Aside from that problem you"re having, how do like that engine?? I was considering getting that engine next year??
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Storm Lake, Ia
Posts: 1,449
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I don't know holley carbs but if it was a quadrajet I would say you should try moving the linkage from one hole to the other above the accelerator pump piston. might double check timing and vaccum advance also.
don't know if holleys are set up the same for linkage though
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Covington,Ga
Posts: 453
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Could it be the choke not adjusted right? I'll look into the linkage deal it could be. Timing could be It. Another thing I just thought of is that it cranks great on the first try like instantly, the first start of the day, but after that it takes a little more turning of the motor to start. Could this be part of the same problem? Aside from the few things I'm telling you about Ilove the motor. As you can tell I'm not even a shade tree mechanic, I'm just a want be trying to save a trip to a pro. The install was a no probelm just plug and play really.
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#11 |
Msgt USAF Ret
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Posts: 8,714
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Lamar. You said you changed the transmission did you plug the vacuum line for the vacuum modulator. I read that you said it did it before you made the change but it sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Also the choke might be set too rich which would explain why it starts fine cold but needs to spin when warm. Just some ideas to ponder.
VetteVet
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Knoxville Tenn.
Posts: 3,058
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Lamar I have installed a couple of these engines. Good engine. 1st you need to set the timing @ 10* before top dead center. Next adjust each of your idle mixture screws out 1 1/2 turns from closed. Then make sure your pump arm is moving the EXACT same time as your throttle shaft. If this does not cure it you will need to change your pump squirtor from a 25 (should be whats in it now) to a 28. If this is more then you can do, go ahead and let some one that has the know how tune it for you . When you get it tuned in you will be very happy with it. Good strong running street engine.
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56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer Last edited by jhow66; 03-09-2005 at 11:49 PM. Reason: change spelling |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 79
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Not to change the subject but if anyone is going to buy the GM HO 350 contact me before about the problems I have encountered about this engine.
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#14 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Knoxville Tenn.
Posts: 3,058
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Quote:
Howard
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56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 66
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Just in case, check to see that the vaccum advance is holding vaccum. Years ago mine was leaking on the HEI and there was a REAL bad dead spot when you accelerate.
If it is leaking you lose vaccum, AND advance at the same time. It only takes a couple of minutes to check. HTH JB |
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Covington,Ga
Posts: 453
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I would be interested also. What is going wrong for you. How do you check the vaccum advance? Vaccum gauge I would assume, but where to connect and what to do?
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#17 |
got boost?
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 123
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you need to read your plugs!
engine at normal operating temp.get it on a lonely road up to hiway cruising speed for about 30 seconds then kill the engine & coast to the edge.pull a plug & look at the tip.black means rich, white means lean, greyish white is right! if it's black/sutty the main metering is too rich/jet too big.white means jet too small. runit down the road as before then stop & stomp on it like you originaly posted.when the stall seems to be at it's worse kill the engine & pull a plug. is the plug clean or black & sutty? if it's clean your accelerator pump is too lean. if it's black & sutty or maybe wet with fuel the accel. pump is too rich. i'm betting too rich as manufacturers/rebuilders typicaly build on the rich & safe side vs. lean/go boom side. the shooter nozzle is probably too large. i highly recommend you get a holley education via books or take it to an experienced pro.they are simple carbs but, you can sure mess "em up if your ignorant of the design. also, when setting the idle mixture screws use a vacuum guage & set them for the highest reading.adjust the idle speed as needed to maintain the recommended speed. you'll be happier with 12 deg. initial advance @ idle. |
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