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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,334
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Por 15 Paint Questions
I have a cast iron intake manifold that I want to paint. Intake has already been bead blasted and primed. I got the por-15 engine kit. I am thinking that I can skip the clean and prime pieces and go straight to the paint. Has anyone ever used this before?
Thanks
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RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234 |
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#2 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,002
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I have used the Por-15 orange on my intake and the factory gray manifold paint on my exhaust. I have never heard of the primer before, I would suggest using the metal ready product they make, it will give the paint a proper surface to stick to. Its not as imporant on something like an engine but if you were to use the regular por-15 paint on something like a frame then metal ready is a must.
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,334
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Gee-Emm,
Nice work there. I will use the metal ready on the intake. I will be doing the work tomorrow in the morning. Thanks
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RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234 |
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#4 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,002
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Thanks, I am actually in the process of redoing it, I wasnt happy with the crappy looking galazined spray painted pieces so I am zinc plating them.
You are working with bare metal right? |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,334
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Cast iron intake that was bead blasted and primed.
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RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234 |
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#6 |
Account Suspended
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,334
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Ok sounds like I need to put the grey primer stuff on it and then slap on the enamel.
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RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234 |
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#8 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,002
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I didnt use the kit, I just bought a can of Chevy orange and put that on to my bare metal intake. It sounds like the kit comes with regular por15 you put on then you put your color on that. I guess the kit is different for some reason, I read the can of chevy orange I have and it says to put it on bare metal.
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#9 |
Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,264
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Just to make sure you're on the right track. You have bead-blasted the intake. Per the instructions for POR-15, glass media doesn't give the surface enough tooth for proper adhesion. So you do need to use the metal ready. I would also do a complete wash on the manifold, inside and out, (before the metal ready) to be sure all of the glass beads are gone. They will damage your valves and cylinder walls.
Next is application of the POR-15. It's not really considered a primer since it can be used as a final coat. Follow the instructions. I assume you're brushing it on. Wear glove of some sort, if it dries on your skin it won't come off. Real similar to what's in super glue. Also, apply two coats of the POR-15 to ensure complete coverage. After that you apply the engine enamel. The stuff is thick, but goes on great and leaves no brush marks, as long as you don't leave any brush hair in the paint.
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,334
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Fred.
Intake has been blasted out so there are no beads floating around in there. I am going to get the metal ready going tonight and get her painted in the morning. Btw I do have some gloves to wear. Already went through the super glue bit last week ![]()
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RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234 |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
Posts: 1,836
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I'm still confused.
![]() ![]() Skokie, exactly what do you mean when you say the intake is "primed?"
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
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#12 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,334
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Quote:
Here is a pic. Ignore the head shield. ![]()
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RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234 |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
Posts: 1,836
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Then POR15 will only stick as well as it sticks to that particular primer. And the combo will only stick as well as the primer sticks. You might talk to a POR15 rep about how well POR15 sticks to most primers. If you didn't ask for the primer application, I'd guess that the machine shop primered your intake to encapsulate whatever beads were not cleaned out by their washing or hot tank to keep them from being liable for your engine had leftover bead/sand particles worked their way into the cylinders.
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,334
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I think what I will do is call the machine shop and see what primer they used and then call por 15 and see what the best course of action would be. I want this to come out right so I can wait a bit.
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RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234 |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: calgary,Alberta,Canada
Posts: 387
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I used the POR 15 kit and here is what I did. I spent countless hours cleaning and scotchbrighting the engine, Used the marine clean, then I used the metal ready and put on the POR 15 Base. I then put on a coat of the engine "Chev Orange" that comes in the kit. However, it all depends what you are going for in the end. If you want to make a full on show truck I suggest spraying it on. The stuff flows out very well for brushing it on, but I found it was impossible to get the Tin parts perfectly smooth (oil pan timing cover) ect. So after the first coat of brushing the orange on I wet sanded it and decided to spray the engine instead. If you are just doing a nice driver and are not in the postion to spray I strongly suggest a warm environment when painting/brushing. Another tip is keep the paint in a warm place just prior to putting it on. I have used the Por products alot and what I always did before brushing them on was put the can in a couple inches of hot water to get the temp. of the paint up. This seemed to help the brush marks fade away fast and make it easy to apply.
I know I had lots of questions before painting with the POR so be sure to ask if I can help with anything else Curt
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1972 CHEYENNE SUPER SWB BLACK. 402 BB, TH400, AIR, TILT, TACH, BUCKETS, CRUISE, AM/FM, 8 TRACK. My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post7120181 |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: calgary,Alberta,Canada
Posts: 387
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What I suggest for painting the manifold is hit it with a Scotch bright pad. Give the por some "tooth" to adhear to. I wouldn't say it was imparative to use the metal ready over the primer unless you have removed the primer and bare metal is showing.
I dealt with this very thing and that is what the POR rep recommended. Curt
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1972 CHEYENNE SUPER SWB BLACK. 402 BB, TH400, AIR, TILT, TACH, BUCKETS, CRUISE, AM/FM, 8 TRACK. My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post7120181 |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,334
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Curt
Looks like you saved me some phone calls. I think I have some of those scorch bright pads here in the kitchen. I will give this a go in the morning. I will post back once I am done and have some pics to show.
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RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234 |
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
Posts: 1,836
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Super72bb, that's some gorgeous engine & chassis work. Fantastic attention to detail.
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
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#19 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 555
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What did you thin the POR15 with to spray, and what ratio?
Erl
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