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#1 |
Blue 67
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,178
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This weekend project
Well, this is what I started yesterday. The floor is not really rusty. Those copper colored things are mainly the old carpet which on some areas were glued to floor by po. I just has some surface rust.
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
Posts: 1,836
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POR15? Get deep down in the seam where the firewall meets the floor. PorPatch seam sealer will go over treated rust. Look closely where the kick panels meet the floor. GM applied seam sealer between the two, but not enough. Fill any gaps after trying to clean out what's between them short of the original sealant.
Sorry; I'm doing front floor, rocker, & kick panel patch panel work on my K10 right now. Couldn't resist giving advice. ![]()
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
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#3 |
PROJECT 7DEUCE
![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: GRANTS PASS OR
Posts: 21,608
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What is that on the floor??? Por 15 all the way just do not get it on your hands.. I just bought some more por for my blazer..
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GO BIG GREEN ![]() MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P.. |
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#4 |
Blue 67
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,178
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That is rust encapsulator from eastwood. I applied it after sanding the area and washing it with zinc sulfate solutation.
4X4poet, don't be sorry, I always appreciate advice. You mean I should remove all the old seam sealers and put new ones? In most of the area I didn't see any evidence of rust. Thanks again. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Kelso,Wa
Posts: 3,637
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Gotta love that steering wheel cover!
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#6 |
Blue 67
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,178
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Well, after couple of coats of primer and first coat of ultra silver paint. I have one question though.When I paint (I am using spray cans), at then end of each hand stroke I get more paint at the edge. How can I prevent that? Now, I am trying to stop spraying before I get to the end of the line and also I try to move my hand faster. Any tip in this regard would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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#7 |
Nothing fits but the oil
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Gaston, Indiana
Posts: 424
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Try spraying in one direction, not back and forth.
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Land of the free Because of the brave |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
Posts: 1,836
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Wire wheel down deep in the firewall to floor joint so you get out the dirt that slipped between the sealant's cracks. Also, as much rust as possible. Then apply encapsulator over that and sealant over the encapsulator. Paint over both.
But don't remove affixed sealant between the floor and kick panels. Just loose stuff, if accessable. Maybe try the gentle application of a small, flat-blade screwdriver and shop vac with crevice tool. After rust encapsulating, seal the area between the two better than before to stop water from draining inbetween the two as so often occurs. Then paint over to make all pretty.
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
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#9 | |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Quote:
Don't use POR products. Eastwood's stuff is not only cheaper, it rolls on smoother and cleaner, doesn't bubble, lays down flat every time and does a better job of protecting against nearby rust spots invading into the areas you've painted.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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