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Old 03-19-2005, 01:55 AM   #1
whitesswj
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Transmission and Drive Shaft problems. Help please?

The guys that posted in the links below have helped alot but i'm still with some questions, well one to be honest; what am i supposed to do??? I'm still at a loss. Help please!!!
Sorry to ask again but let me try here on this part of the board. thanks guys. sswj

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=146288
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=145902
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Old 03-19-2005, 03:17 AM   #2
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If you're trying to save money, you could move your engine mount towers and transmission crossmember back to the I6 position. This might allow you to use your existing driveshaft without modifying it. The engine will fit this way as long as you don't have an HEI distributor.

About 10 years ago I converted from an I6 with a 3-speed manual transmission to a small block V8 and TH350 transmission. I mounted the V8 right on the I6 mount towers with the engine close to the firewall. I didn't have to modify the driveshaft. A few years later I got a pair of V8 towers and moved the engine forward so that the fan would fit inside the fan shroud. I then had to get the driveshaft extended.
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Old 03-20-2005, 12:58 AM   #3
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i'm not really worried about the money part. I'm just wondering is there a longer drive shaft available? that way i won't have to lengthen the one i have. thanks sswj
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Old 03-20-2005, 02:25 AM   #4
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i got a one piece from salvage yard out of a chevi van & had it shortened.
my truck is a lwb. it works great with a 4l60/700r4.
if you have coil spring suspension, you must measure from the diff yolk u-joint cup seat to the tranny tailshaft seal,(at the center of the seal, vertically), with the weight OFF the wheels!
this is the point in suspension travel that the diff. is closest to the tranny.
once you have this measurement, put your tranny yoke in the tailshaft & bottom it.measure from the seal to the forward edge of the tranny yokes u-joint cup hole.
now, subtract the yoke measurement from the first measurement.
this gives you the lenght of the driveshaft you need from the rear edge of the rear u-joint to the forward edge of the forward u-joint.
to make it easier for the d-shaft shop subtract the diameter of one u-joint cup.
this leaves you with the length needed from center to center.they like that!
you should also subtract 1/2" from this lenght as a safety margine so the tranny yoke can never impact the tranny inside.
this method will work as long as your trailing arm attach points are un altered.
be sure your pinion angle is set equal to but opposite of the d-shaft angle.
read here & here .

hope this helps.
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Old 03-20-2005, 08:28 AM   #5
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[QUOTE=pjmoreland] ...the I6 position.......The engine will fit this way as long as you don't have an HEI distributor... [QUOTE]

The HEI will fit with the engine back in the rear position, but it is pretty darn close to the firewall. It's no closer than some factory GM cars were though.
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Old 03-20-2005, 09:54 AM   #6
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I have one in my truck that a driveshaft shop said came out of a 70's caprice or same type car. I had to get it shortened about 1.5 inches and it worked great.
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Old 03-20-2005, 07:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NPilot1975
I have one in my truck that a driveshaft shop said came out of a 70's caprice or same type car. I had to get it shortened about 1.5 inches and it worked great.

wht kind of tranny do you have>?
sswj?
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Old 03-20-2005, 11:59 PM   #8
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I am running a 4L60E which is the same length as a 700R4.
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Old 03-20-2005, 11:59 PM   #9
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i've just got a simple 3 spd from a 67 donor truck.
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Old 03-21-2005, 12:16 AM   #10
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It might still work, I was thinking about it and I it was actually shortened more than 1.5 inches to fit. I just don't remember how much. If you have a yoke for the tranny, put it in all the way and then pull it out 3/4 inch, then measure from center to center where the u-joints go. This will give you your length, then you just need a salvage yard.
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Old 03-21-2005, 12:52 AM   #11
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i don't have the yolk, the one i have is for a munice 4 spd.
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