pics of step by step custom flushmount tails

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this is kinda streetrod stuff, but can be applied to anything with a rollpan. i used a light kit that comes with a certain metal piece with a cutout, lense, and a back bucket thing. you take the metal and shape it to the piece that you want lights in, then weld bolts to the back for the bucket, then weld it in. had the camera so i thought i would post, maybe it will help someone out.

this is on the driver side rear fender of the 51 ute that i am working on. i used a ir cutoff wheel with 3m green corps cutoff discs, ir 301 air grinder with 3 inch 36 grit roloc disc, millermatic 175 with regular wire, 75/25 mix, various body hammers and dolly's, and a stud gun to help move the metal that i couldnt reach from behind. smoothed out with 80 grit on a da and ready for some icing. it took me about 3 hours from start to finish.

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check and re-check the fit

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weld screws on back

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start with cold tacks to make sure it fits. (clecos fasteners can be used, or even magnets, but this was a flat piece so it wasnt that hard)

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start tacking. you want a gap that is about the size of the wire you are using (.23 in this case) my gap is a little tight, but it worked out ok.

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tack, be sure to go slllloooowww and keep it cool. dont blow air or use water to cool, that just shocks the metal into the position that it is stretched into.

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after its all tacked in start grinding. the top is a little rough

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almost done, i just need a few more tacks in some rough spots.

pros please add to or correct me if you see any mistakes or know any tricks or tips

[sevt_chevelle]

Looks good! If you have room to get to backside I dont see why you shouldnt be able to metal finish that patch without filler.

Get yourself a slapper instead of body hammers. They have a much bigger contact area, moves that metal faster and easier. Ive got a set bought from Ron Covell www.covell.biz I use mainly the 3lb slapper, I use this probably 99% of the time doing ANY type of dent repair.

If you hammer and dolly after tack weld you will help control the metal wrapage. Just remember metal gets shrunk when you weld it. So you need to strench back out and you do this via hammer and dolly work.

To help find any low/high spots get yourself a magnum shrapie marker. The tip is about 1/2 wide, cost is about 4 bucks. You use the marker like a guide coat for primer. Mark over the metal, then take a good solid level sanding block loaded with 80 grit. The lows will remain black from the sharpie marker, the highs will be shiney metal. makes finding low/highs really easy. Also when you go back to raise those lows you can see the metal move up in those lows spots as the slapper/hammer smears away that marker.

Something else that came to mind. When you connect your welds together Ive found that you get better peneration into the existing tack weld and base metal if you grind down the tack weld before you weld into it. You remove any protruding metal that will be ground down later, then make your new weld into that old weld you ground down. No point in welding into a weld that will get ground down. This also makes your tacks faster as you dont have as much material to melt into here for you have less heat introduced into the panel...Eric

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thanks for the tips man. that last thing you said about grinding tacks, i usually do that, it wasnt in the pics though. i find that i can make smaller cooler tacks if i am welding up against a grinded tac as opposed to a un ground tack.

i've been using 3m dry guide coat for everything, but from your description it sounds like the marker would work alot better.

[sevt_chevelle]

Sean the 3M dry guide coat works wonders on filler and primer but however it doest work on bare metal. The marker works on bare metal, but keep the dry guide coat for your filler and primer.