1/2 ton 4x4 spindle removal help! (photo) - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

sb400 · 03-22-2005, 11:35 PM

I'm trying to get the ball joints out and I have removed the rotor and backing plate. Next I need to remove the spindle and axle, in order to get at the ball joints.

I have the spindle nuts off, and have been beating the spindle senseless for the past 45 minutes. It won't budge. I've tried a chisel on the side to wedge between the spindle and the steering knuckle. I've soaked it with WD-40. Is there some other fastener that I have somehow missed?

I don't own a torch, other than a little propane job, so any other suggestions to remove the spindle in a useable condition are greatly appreciated!!!

low 84 · 03-22-2005, 11:49 PM

nope, theres nothing else holding it on. its probly just rusted on the knuckle. your doing the right thing, just gotta beat on it. one of mine was stuck pretty good and i eventualy got it off by hammering a screw driver inbetween the spindle and knuckle like your doing with a chisle

72 CustomCamper · 03-23-2005, 12:16 AM

I've had that problem in the past. I used a block of wood where I circled and hit it with a big hammer. The wood will not let the spindle get harmed. At least it didn't harm the one I had...

Chuck

Sailor77 · 03-23-2005, 07:11 AM

you can also try to hit it from the rear or take a pry bar and wiggle the u-joint around. It took me a while to get mine out, but I got it. Good luck

sb400 · 03-23-2005, 08:28 AM

Thanks all, I guess the beatings will continue tonight!

Sailor77 · 03-23-2005, 10:52 AM

one more thing. Wrap a rag around the spindle so you can grap a hold it it to wiggle, while "beating!"

sb400 · 03-23-2005, 10:09 PM

Success!

Tonight I got smarter than the truck. I pounded the studs back into the steering knuckle, then cut a small groove into the spindle with a whizzer so I could get a chisel started between the spindle and the knuckle. Many blows on the chisel with a 3 lb sledge and it finally came off!

jlhusa1 · 03-28-2005, 12:53 PM

For future info- The correct way to do this is to thread a Blue Point YA 2220 onto the spindle. Then thread a slide hammer into the tool. A couple of good whacks with the slide hammer and the spindle will come right out with no damage to the threads or anything else. The Blue Point YA 2220 is availble through any Snap-On tool dealer. It has 3 different thread diameters inside it so it will work on Chevys, Fords, Dodges and Jeeps as well.

sb400 · 03-28-2005, 09:39 PM

jlhusa1:

thanks for the tip. So is there some magic tool to get the ball joints out? Mine are siezed. I actually bent the heavy c-frame on my ball joint press on the upper joint. The joint didn't even budge. I did remove the snap ring. I have an acetylene torch on the way tomorrow morning as my last resort - figure I can just burn through the middle and air chisel out the rest.

This has been quite a job to replace a $15 part!

1972 · 03-29-2005, 04:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sb400

jlhusa1:

So is there some magic tool to get the ball joints out?

Yep. I have a spindle puller as described above. It look like a big socket that has threads on the inside. You thread it onto the spindle, attach a slide hammer to it, and whack it a couple times. Ford spindle have a longer piece that goes into the knuckle, and we got the one off my buddies Dana 60 in about 8 seconds after threading the tool on. I bought mine off ebay for around $30

jlhusa1 · 03-29-2005, 09:54 AM

Yes there is. It's an OTC 7249 Ball Joint Press. It is also good for pressing unversal joints. All you need is the press, a pair of snap ring pliers, a 1-1/8" socket and a torque wrench to do the ball joints once you have the spindle off. Were you going to replace your front axle u-joints while you have everything apart? Oops, I almost forgot you will also need a Snap-On S9613 socket to torque the adjustment sleeve on the upper ball joint when you put it back together. I would coat that sleeve with plenty of anti-sieze compound just in case you every have to do this again. Read the directions that come with the ball joints and make sure that you torque everthing correctly. I put ball joints in my '72 K20 years ago and they are still tight. I believe that Moog now makes the upper ball joints with grease fittings in them. I would definately get these.

jlhusa1 · 03-29-2005, 10:07 AM

Sorry, I just saw your other post after I replied. I've had some of these things be pretty stuck too. If you can still use your press I would heat up the knuckle around the ball joint. Once the knuckle is glowing red the ball joint should come out easier. Dot not dip the knuckle in water to cool it off. That could change the temper of the metal. Just let it cool down by itself. BTW- where is West Chester?

03-22-2005, 11:35 PM	#1
sb400 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Superior CO Posts: 32	1/2 ton 4x4 spindle removal help! (photo) I'm trying to get the ball joints out and I have removed the rotor and backing plate. Next I need to remove the spindle and axle, in order to get at the ball joints. I have the spindle nuts off, and have been beating the spindle senseless for the past 45 minutes. It won't budge. I've tried a chisel on the side to wedge between the spindle and the steering knuckle. I've soaked it with WD-40. Is there some other fastener that I have somehow missed? I don't own a torch, other than a little propane job, so any other suggestions to remove the spindle in a useable condition are greatly appreciated!!! __________________ '79 SWB 4x4 Scottsdale 350/4 speed '70 Nova 406/M20 4 speed '02 Subaru WRX wagon

03-22-2005, 11:49 PM	#2
low 84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,144	nope, theres nothing else holding it on. its probly just rusted on the knuckle. your doing the right thing, just gotta beat on it. one of mine was stuck pretty good and i eventualy got it off by hammering a screw driver inbetween the spindle and knuckle like your doing with a chisle __________________ '51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's

03-23-2005, 12:16 AM	#3
72 CustomCamper huh ??? Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Fredericksburg,Va. Posts: 3,369	I've had that problem in the past. I used a block of wood where I circled and hit it with a big hammer. The wood will not let the spindle get harmed. At least it didn't harm the one I had... Chuck Attached Images __________________ 90 Blazer Silverado 350w/ 700R4 and 32" Kelly's "I am a bomb technician. If you see me running try to keep up!"

03-23-2005, 08:28 AM	#5
sb400 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Superior CO Posts: 32	Thanks all, I guess the beatings will continue tonight! __________________ '79 SWB 4x4 Scottsdale 350/4 speed '70 Nova 406/M20 4 speed '02 Subaru WRX wagon

03-23-2005, 10:09 PM	#7
sb400 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Superior CO Posts: 32	Success! Tonight I got smarter than the truck. I pounded the studs back into the steering knuckle, then cut a small groove into the spindle with a whizzer so I could get a chisel started between the spindle and the knuckle. Many blows on the chisel with a 3 lb sledge and it finally came off! __________________ '79 SWB 4x4 Scottsdale 350/4 speed '70 Nova 406/M20 4 speed '02 Subaru WRX wagon

03-23-2005, 07:11 AM	#4
Sailor77 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Posts: 68	you can also try to hit it from the rear or take a pry bar and wiggle the u-joint around. It took me a while to get mine out, but I got it. Good luck

03-23-2005, 10:52 AM	#6
Sailor77 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Posts: 68	one more thing. Wrap a rag around the spindle so you can grap a hold it it to wiggle, while "beating!"

03-28-2005, 12:53 PM	#8
jlhusa1 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 15	For future info- The correct way to do this is to thread a Blue Point YA 2220 onto the spindle. Then thread a slide hammer into the tool. A couple of good whacks with the slide hammer and the spindle will come right out with no damage to the threads or anything else. The Blue Point YA 2220 is availble through any Snap-On tool dealer. It has 3 different thread diameters inside it so it will work on Chevys, Fords, Dodges and Jeeps as well.

03-28-2005, 09:39 PM	#9
sb400 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Superior CO Posts: 32	jlhusa1: thanks for the tip. So is there some magic tool to get the ball joints out? Mine are siezed. I actually bent the heavy c-frame on my ball joint press on the upper joint. The joint didn't even budge. I did remove the snap ring. I have an acetylene torch on the way tomorrow morning as my last resort - figure I can just burn through the middle and air chisel out the rest. This has been quite a job to replace a $15 part! __________________ '79 SWB 4x4 Scottsdale 350/4 speed '70 Nova 406/M20 4 speed '02 Subaru WRX wagon

03-29-2005, 09:54 AM	#11
jlhusa1 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 15	Yes there is. It's an OTC 7249 Ball Joint Press. It is also good for pressing unversal joints. All you need is the press, a pair of snap ring pliers, a 1-1/8" socket and a torque wrench to do the ball joints once you have the spindle off. Were you going to replace your front axle u-joints while you have everything apart? Oops, I almost forgot you will also need a Snap-On S9613 socket to torque the adjustment sleeve on the upper ball joint when you put it back together. I would coat that sleeve with plenty of anti-sieze compound just in case you every have to do this again. Read the directions that come with the ball joints and make sure that you torque everthing correctly. I put ball joints in my '72 K20 years ago and they are still tight. I believe that Moog now makes the upper ball joints with grease fittings in them. I would definately get these.

03-29-2005, 10:07 AM	#12
jlhusa1 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 15	Sorry, I just saw your other post after I replied. I've had some of these things be pretty stuck too. If you can still use your press I would heat up the knuckle around the ball joint. Once the knuckle is glowing red the ball joint should come out easier. Dot not dip the knuckle in water to cool it off. That could change the temper of the metal. Just let it cool down by itself. BTW- where is West Chester?



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