Bleading Brakes. Help ! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72MARIO · 07-11-2005, 10:44 AM

Well I have just finished all the lines brand new everything. I am using dot 5 fluid.

Anyway I epoxy primed and painted my MC then installed it. Filled it up and opened the bleader screws. The front came out in a few minutes. So I am ready for a helper to push the pedal out while I open the bleader screw and close it before they let there foot up. But the rear will not run a hour later and still nothing. Did I have to bench blead the MC ?

Any way to get around this ?

Thanks for any tips.

Striker169 · 07-11-2005, 12:44 PM

Yes you always have to bench bleed the MC you can do it when its installed it just requires more pumping of the pedle

Fred T · 07-11-2005, 12:58 PM

Try cracking open the line coming out of the m/c. Usually you can get fluid to flow there, if not do your bench bleed with that fitting. Have your helper push the pedal down, then open the fitting to release the air.

68speedalert · 07-11-2005, 01:11 PM

Since everthing is epoxied, find line plugs for the openings of the mc and just keep pumping the pedal until no bubbles come from the ports inside the mc (at the bottom of the resevoirs). The mc is now bled. I've had good success with gravity bleeding at the wheel cyl. Open them and let drip until a steady drip is seen. The plugs are available at auto parts stores.

Steve

07-11-2005, 10:44 AM	#1
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	Bleading Brakes. Help ! Well I have just finished all the lines brand new everything. I am using dot 5 fluid. Anyway I epoxy primed and painted my MC then installed it. Filled it up and opened the bleader screws. The front came out in a few minutes. So I am ready for a helper to push the pedal out while I open the bleader screw and close it before they let there foot up. But the rear will not run a hour later and still nothing. Did I have to bench blead the MC ? Any way to get around this ? Thanks for any tips. __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

07-11-2005, 12:58 PM	#3
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	Try cracking open the line coming out of the m/c. Usually you can get fluid to flow there, if not do your bench bleed with that fitting. Have your helper push the pedal down, then open the fitting to release the air. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

07-11-2005, 01:11 PM	#4
68speedalert Semi-Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Washington, MO Posts: 390	Since everthing is epoxied, find line plugs for the openings of the mc and just keep pumping the pedal until no bubbles come from the ports inside the mc (at the bottom of the resevoirs). The mc is now bled. I've had good success with gravity bleeding at the wheel cyl. Open them and let drip until a steady drip is seen. The plugs are available at auto parts stores. Steve __________________ '68 50th Anniversery LWB Custom Fleetside, '77 305 v-8, turbo 350, factory speed alert (still works), '71 drivetrain w/front discs. Some call it ugly yellow, others call it Ochre '83 Jeep CJ-7, <80,000 miles, original owner '04 Chevy Suburban, 4x4, 2500, 6.0 ltr, Predator Diablo programmer '95 GMC K1500 Extended cab

07-11-2005, 12:44 PM	#2
Striker169 Car O'Holic Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Austin, Tx. Posts: 692	Yes you always have to bench bleed the MC you can do it when its installed it just requires more pumping of the pedle



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