Flip Kit for lowering rear leaf truck

[tomatocity]

Finally decided to use a Flip Kit to lower my truck 5" in the rear. This seems to be the most economical barring any unforseen issues. Here are a couple of questions:
-Will the frame need to be C-notch'd?
-What is the best Flip Kit?
-Do I really need a Flip Kit or can I use two new extended spring perch's?
-What are the flaws to lowering using a Flip Kit?
-Will I need shock extender brackets?
-Can I remove the bottom leaf (flat leaf)(five leaf spring) without a problem?
-Are there any other things to be concerned with?

I plan on lowering the rear first. Then I want to lower the front to match the rear using drop spindles and lowering springs if needed. Any suggestions or criticisms are appreciated. Thanks.

[Prerunner1982]

The frame doesnt have to be C-notched... thought it may help give you a bit more suspension travel...
Western Chassis makes a decent flip kit from what i hear..
By extended spring perches do you mean shackles? longer perches would actually lift your truck as the shackle is above the perch, you would need shorter perches to lower.. and longer shackles, however a 2" longer shackle, only lowers the truck 1"..
Flaws? well you have to remove your bump stops or else your truck will actually ride on those and not use the suspension...
You will need shock extender brackets or shorter "lowered" shocks...
Yes you should be able to remove the bottom "overload" spring with no problem..

I am by no means and expert here.. heck my truck runs on 32"s... I have however helped install a flip kit on a 81-87... I am sure the experts will chime in...

[tomatocity]

Thanks Jon.
*The extended spring perch is a term I came up with to describe the bracket on the differential housing that the springs sit on (perch) and mount to. The 'extended' part is how far the bracket wraps around the housing. From what I have read, if you use a stock perch you should weld it to the housing. If you use an extended perch it will wrap around and touch the original perch which holds it in place and you don't have to weld the perch in place. Hope this explains my version of an extended spring perch.
I understand the extended shackles. Originally I was going to use 4" drop leafs and 1.5" extended shackles but that drives the cost up.
*Thanks for the tip on Western Chassis.
*I will probably go with a frame notch to get the clearance. I would not like riding on a buckboard.
*I used to have a 76 Blazer that I raised 2.5" (rearc'd springs) and stuffed Armstrong 33" tires on it though they were bad (not round)(pogo'd real bad on the freeway) and I traded for BFG 32". I miss that truck and the fishing/camping trips.
Tim

[Captkaos]

Here are a couple of questions:
- You don't have to, but I HIGHLY recommend notching the frame. You can make your own C-notch if you get a 6" sched 40 pipe section the width of the frame.

- They are all pretty much the same. If you are on the cheap and have a welder and don't plan to return to stock, you can actually weld another axle perch (or cut the current off) on the bottom of the axle. Just make sure you have between 3-4 degrees of angle in it.

- See above for alternative methods. Not sure if you are talking about a perch that is "taller" though.

- None that I personally have encountered. I have flipped every truck I have ever owned. I haven't had any issues with them.

- I would recommend shock extenders, mainly because you can get the shock with the proper valving and compressed/extended lenghts.

- There is no problem with removing the overload, just keep in mind capacity for overloading is gone.

- Wanting it lower or on bags is about it I would say.

[tomatocity]

Hi Chris. I am not sure what you are saying about "You can make your own C-notch if you get a 6" sched 40 pipe section the width of the frame."

The spring perch I am thinking of wraps around the housing further and touches the stock spring perch. This allows it to be clamped to the housing and not welded.

Is that 3-4 degrees in what direction? does the pinion need to be higher or lower than center?

No bags. Just want the truck to be static lowered and level.

Thanks. Tim

[Prerunner1982]

he is talking about making your own C-notch out of a pipe that is the width of the frame and welding in where you cut the C out of... basically what you will get if you buy a "kit" with a c-notch..
The "perch" you are talking about is the same kind i helped install...

[Captkaos]

Originally Posted by tomatocity

Hi Chris. I am not sure what you are saying about "You can make your own C-notch if you get a 6" sched 40 pipe section the width of the frame."

Tim,
The C-notch can be made of anything that allows extra axle travel. On this I used a U-channel:


On this I used a 6" Sch40 pipe cut in have and welded in:


The yoke/pinion centerline needs to tilt up 3-4 degrees from horizontal (pointing towards the rear tranny yoke essentially). Technically if you get a flip-kit, it will have this tilt built in. When I say flip kit, it is what you are calling spring perches.

[Captkaos]

I just realized you are working on a 67-72, right? There is a little difference in frames on those, so I will let those experts speak in the C-notch reguard.