getting front springs out? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Benrs86 · 08-22-2002, 07:50 PM

so today in school i was staring out the window and decided my 69 definately sits to high in the front, so when i got home from school, i decided today was the perfect day to tear it apart (it was rainy out) so i take off the wheel, and the nut on the lower ball joint, (with a jack under it ready for it to come out) HA that thing is stuck in there. i pried, i hammered, i got a 6 foot long by 1" steel shaft, and pried, but that thing wont come out. how do i get the spring outta there? should i take off the top ball joint instead? any help is apreciatted. Thanks, Ben

*Zkast* · 08-22-2002, 07:59 PM

You'll also need to remove the lower shock bolt, sway bar mounts(at the control arm) and I usually unbolt the caliper and swing it up out of the way.

Put the front end on jackstands, place the jack just behind the lower ball joint/infront of the spring seat. Loosen the lower ball joint nut 3 turns. Turn the spindle so you have a nice clean shot to hit the spindle. Use a semi large hammer/sledge and "Pop" the side of the spindle where the ball joint goes through, once or twice. I prefer not to use seperators because they destroy the ball joint boot. The ball joint should seperate at this point. Unbolt the sway bar from the control arm then double check your jack/jackstands!!!! If you feel everything is ok, remove the nut completly from the lower ball joint, then remove the lower shock bolt. Slowly let the jack down (dont stand infront of the jack)

One great thing about this control arm setup is you can let the arm down all the way, replace the spring and jack it back up with minimal hazard. There's no need to compress the spring, the arm will swing low enough to let the spring actually fall out.

Good luck and be careful!!!!!

Longhorn Man · 08-22-2002, 08:00 PM

You were doing it right, but that ball joint (like the upper one) is pressed in there with alot more @ss than your pry bar can give it.
There's a few ways to do it;
PROPER WAY... Pickle fork. (disadvantage, tears up the boot)
ACCEPTED WAY... BFH. Leave the nut on there by a few threads, and beat the crap outa the lower controll arm. (disadvantage...what if you miss??)
BACK YARD WAY...Place a bottle jack inbetween the upper and lower control arms, (again, leaving the nut on partially) and jack it up untill it pops.
What ever you do, have that jack under the lower ball joint to catch it, and another good idea regardless of which manner you use, get a bike lovk and chain (or cable) and loop it through the spring, and to the frame. This will keep it from killing you IF it happens to try out its flight abilities.
(I prefer the jack method myself)

RON WOODGEARD · 08-22-2002, 08:05 PM

BEN,

FIRST OF ALL BE CAREFUL !! That thing can come out like a "LARGE" bullet.

You need a "PICKLE FORK" It goes between the ball joint and the lower "A" frame, then you smack the pickle fork with a hammer and they wiil seperate.

Run a length of chain through the upper A frame through the coil and through the lower A frame, HOOKING IT BACK TO ITSELF. keeping the chain relatively loose and a jack (or something) under the lower A frame, jack the crossmember up relieving the coil pressure off of the a frames when the coil is no longer under any stress remove the chain and coil.

RON

RON WOODGEARD · 08-22-2002, 08:07 PM

OK ANDY,

We were typing at the same time.... YOU BEAT ME !!!!

I've never tried the" bottle jack" trick.. good idea..

RON

Longhorn Man · 08-22-2002, 08:13 PM

Thanks Ron, i came up with that one when i had to seperate the lower ball joint on my GMC...No tellin how long it had been there, but the pickle fork and a 5 lb sledge just wouldn't do it. So I tried this, and it worked like a charm.
Back yard be d@mned, I like this way the best.

*Zkast* · 08-22-2002, 08:23 PM

These balljoint/spindle setups are nearly 1.5inches apart making a pickle fork tough to use. Unless you have an oversized (thick) one that can fill that space with room left over, your basicly just hitting the ball joint stud causing it to seperate from the vibrations. Hate to see a good ball joint boot go to waste lol

I think we were all typing at the same time LOL

Benrs86 · 08-22-2002, 08:40 PM

wow thanks for the quick replies. yeah, i dont really want to use a fork thing cuz i dont have one and i think ill reuse the balljoints unless i should just put new ones in?? but i tried the jack thing with the jack out of my sisters 92 dodge daytona, i twisted it

so now it jacks up crooked, i dont have a bottle jack, but i called my dad and told him to bring one home from his work, so hopefully he will get here at a decent time tongiht, so i can get them out. i was using the biggest hammer we have. man, i thought i would for sure have these springs out before supper. oh well, im not in a huge hurry. thanks for the help again, Ben

*Zkast* · 08-22-2002, 09:54 PM

I assumed you had a floor jack... DO NOT attempt this with a bottle jack or sicsor jack. Letting the control arm down needs to be a very controlled movement with plenty of support.

Benrs86 · 08-22-2002, 09:58 PM

oh no no, i have a floor jack, but i was gonna use the bottle jack to get the ball joint apart, since my big hammer isnt doing the trick and i dont want to wreck the boot. i have a floor jack and blocks, i was using the scissor jack to get the ball joint out, but it was too weak, and my dad still isnt home with the bottle jack. sorry for the confusion, Ben

Huck · 08-22-2002, 10:04 PM

Had a friend named Bernie. WE were supposed to go out one saturday night chasing ladies. When I got to his house to pick him up, his mother said he was not going. I said we had it all planned~~~~. She had me come in to the house. Bernie was sitting in the living room in his bathrobe with his legs spred far apart. I asked what's up? He explained that he was changing the front coil springs in his 57 chevy when one of them went flying. It hit the ground, then the ceiling, then the gound, then in an area that football players wear a CUP. His little thingies were the size of CANTELOPEs!! BE real careful and take the precaution of chaining or tying the coils in place till the tension is off or your little thingies will be the size of CANTELOPES~~~~.
Needless to say, Bernie didn't go with me that night---or for that matter, he didn't go out for several days!!! Woos!

Longhorn Man · 08-22-2002, 10:20 PM

Ouch, a spring to the pills, that could put big jim and the twins out od commision for a while, if not forever.

chevyman 68 C/10 · 08-22-2002, 10:36 PM

OUCH THAT HURTS TO READ THAT POST

Benrs86 · 08-22-2002, 10:46 PM

man, there is a reason to be careful, i will find a chain before i start workin on it tomrrow

bigjimzlll · 08-22-2002, 10:50 PM

hey....longhorn...was that some of a slam....(bigjim)...LOL

minibike · 08-22-2002, 11:20 PM

Ball joints are not that expensive, so if they are questionable, it would be a good time to replace them. Some of the autoparts stores rent the press for the bottom one and the top one comes right out after drilling the rivets out. If you decide to replace them, then you can use the pickle fork. They go for about $8 at Autozone. Just did mine last week.

Scrub · 08-22-2002, 11:59 PM

I think ya'all are nuts taking the ball joints apart. I can change a set of springs out in an hour.

Jack up the truck good and throw some big firewood blocks under the frame at the front of the doors.
Pull the tires and shocks loose.
Now put your floor jack under the inside pin on the lower a-frame, the big one that is just under the oil-pan. Put good preasure on it and then remove the 2 u-bolts that hold it on. Now let down the jack. the Springs will fall out.

You might have to remove the steering rods too, but I don't think so just to change springs.

Just reverse the process to put them back.

I think this is a heck of a lot safer and easier than spliting ball joints.

Good luck

*Zkast* · 08-23-2002, 12:09 AM

I would tend to think that way is more risky.. If you seperate at the ball joint, you know you have 2 good wide pivot points so the control arm will not twist one way or the other. If you remove the control arm u bolts, you then only have 1 pivot and if your jack moves ANY you'll have that spring saying hello to you.

just MHO though...

bigjimzlll · 08-23-2002, 12:31 AM

ok..to show my ignorance..can you cut a half of coil off the spring while on the truck?

minibike · 08-23-2002, 08:19 AM

I don't think it would be a good idea. You will need to make sure you keept the smaller end of the spring in the same orientation in the pocket (top), after you cut the coil 1/2. The bottom won't fit the the formed end right, but I am going to try it on mine. If the bottom is in the formed end right, it rotates the top 1/2 turn, which takes it out of center. Then teh spring rubs on the cross member.

BadAzz70PU · 08-23-2002, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Scrub
I think ya'all are nuts taking the ball joints apart. I can change a set of springs out in an hour.

Jack up the truck good and throw some big firewood blocks under the frame at the front of the doors.
Pull the tires and shocks loose.
Now put your floor jack under the inside pin on the lower a-frame, the big one that is just under the oil-pan. Put good preasure on it and then remove the 2 u-bolts that hold it on. Now let down the jack. the Springs will fall out.

You might have to remove the steering rods too, but I don't think so just to change springs.

Just reverse the process to put them back.

I think this is a heck of a lot safer and easier than spliting ball joints.

Good luck

I was reading this post wondering why no one brought this up sooner. I have done mine this way many times. Chain up the spring and place the jack well and its very safe and easy. I got the front springs down to a half hour job, I was trying out different height combo's so I did it a lot in a day. Once you have lowered springs (mine are 3"), they wont even be under tension once the truck is in the air so you dont have to worry about the spring flight problem.

Longhorn Man · 08-23-2002, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigjimzlll hey....longhorn...was that some of a slam....(bigjim)...LOL

Naaa, just a nick name

If your real name is Richard, I'll die laughung!

Benrs86 · 08-23-2002, 09:19 PM

hey, i gave up tryin to get that ball joint out. it was makin me mad. i did scrubs way. piece of cake, had the springs out in less than an hour. very cool, wonder why i didnt think of that. lol. but now, i want about a 2 or 3 inch lower, so one coil or two? THANKS, Ben

Low68 · 08-24-2002, 01:58 AM

Hey I didn't read everyone's, but I don't think this was mentioned. I have tried this before(honestly I can't remember if it worked or not) but loosen the lower ball joint and put the wheel back on, lower it on the wheel and bounce the truck up and down as hard as you can. If you can't get it on the lower ball joint, try it on the upper. If it doesn't work, you didn't pound up and ball joints or tear up any boots. Be careful if you start wacking on the nut on the ball joint. Unless you are lucky, you will have a hard time trying to find an nut that will fit. Good Luck and let us know what works.
Low68

*Zkast* · 08-24-2002, 11:15 AM

That reminds me of something... I just re-read my post and thought I should clarify something if someone is to use this method.

Use the hammer to hit the side of the spindle where the ball joint stud goes through, not the ball joint stud.

08-22-2002, 07:50 PM	#1
Benrs86 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Brandon, SD, USA Posts: 1,292	getting front springs out? so today in school i was staring out the window and decided my 69 definately sits to high in the front, so when i got home from school, i decided today was the perfect day to tear it apart (it was rainy out) so i take off the wheel, and the nut on the lower ball joint, (with a jack under it ready for it to come out) HA that thing is stuck in there. i pried, i hammered, i got a 6 foot long by 1" steel shaft, and pried, but that thing wont come out. how do i get the spring outta there? should i take off the top ball joint instead? any help is apreciatted. Thanks, Ben __________________ Brandon, SD 69 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd wide long bed with wood 3 on the tree 350 engine 4 bolt main rv cam AIM = Alphray04

08-22-2002, 07:59 PM	#2
Zkast Account Suspended Join Date: May 2002 Location: Olathe, Kansas Posts: 929	You'll also need to remove the lower shock bolt, sway bar mounts(at the control arm) and I usually unbolt the caliper and swing it up out of the way. Put the front end on jackstands, place the jack just behind the lower ball joint/infront of the spring seat. Loosen the lower ball joint nut 3 turns. Turn the spindle so you have a nice clean shot to hit the spindle. Use a semi large hammer/sledge and "Pop" the side of the spindle where the ball joint goes through, once or twice. I prefer not to use seperators because they destroy the ball joint boot. The ball joint should seperate at this point. Unbolt the sway bar from the control arm then double check your jack/jackstands!!!! If you feel everything is ok, remove the nut completly from the lower ball joint, then remove the lower shock bolt. Slowly let the jack down (dont stand infront of the jack) One great thing about this control arm setup is you can let the arm down all the way, replace the spring and jack it back up with minimal hazard. There's no need to compress the spring, the arm will swing low enough to let the spring actually fall out. Good luck and be careful!!!!! Last edited by Zkast; 08-24-2002 at 11:15 AM.

08-22-2002, 08:40 PM	#8
Benrs86 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Brandon, SD, USA Posts: 1,292	wow thanks for the quick replies. yeah, i dont really want to use a fork thing cuz i dont have one and i think ill reuse the balljoints unless i should just put new ones in?? but i tried the jack thing with the jack out of my sisters 92 dodge daytona, i twisted it so now it jacks up crooked, i dont have a bottle jack, but i called my dad and told him to bring one home from his work, so hopefully he will get here at a decent time tongiht, so i can get them out. i was using the biggest hammer we have. man, i thought i would for sure have these springs out before supper. oh well, im not in a huge hurry. thanks for the help again, Ben __________________ Brandon, SD 69 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd wide long bed with wood 3 on the tree 350 engine 4 bolt main rv cam AIM = Alphray04

08-22-2002, 09:58 PM	#10
Benrs86 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Brandon, SD, USA Posts: 1,292	oh no no, i have a floor jack, but i was gonna use the bottle jack to get the ball joint apart, since my big hammer isnt doing the trick and i dont want to wreck the boot. i have a floor jack and blocks, i was using the scissor jack to get the ball joint out, but it was too weak, and my dad still isnt home with the bottle jack. sorry for the confusion, Ben __________________ Brandon, SD 69 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd wide long bed with wood 3 on the tree 350 engine 4 bolt main rv cam AIM = Alphray04

08-22-2002, 10:36 PM	#13
chevyman 68 C/10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Gilmer, Texas USA Posts: 313	OUCH THAT HURTS TO READ THAT POST __________________ 69 Chevy short fleet side soon to have LT1 and 4L60E pb. ps cruise and air. 68 Chevy short fleet side 400 sb 5 inch chop top pb. ps. pw. 350 auto and shaved handles 68 anniversary no engine long wheel base 400 auto FOR SALE 68 Chevy fleet side long wheel base complete parts truck.

08-22-2002, 08:00 PM	#3
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	You were doing it right, but that ball joint (like the upper one) is pressed in there with alot more @ss than your pry bar can give it. There's a few ways to do it; PROPER WAY... Pickle fork. (disadvantage, tears up the boot) ACCEPTED WAY... BFH. Leave the nut on there by a few threads, and beat the crap outa the lower controll arm. (disadvantage...what if you miss??) BACK YARD WAY...Place a bottle jack inbetween the upper and lower control arms, (again, leaving the nut on partially) and jack it up untill it pops. What ever you do, have that jack under the lower ball joint to catch it, and another good idea regardless of which manner you use, get a bike lovk and chain (or cable) and loop it through the spring, and to the frame. This will keep it from killing you IF it happens to try out its flight abilities. (I prefer the jack method myself)

08-22-2002, 08:05 PM	#4
RON WOODGEARD Resident Young Old Dude ! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Nevada Posts: 1,948	BEN, FIRST OF ALL BE CAREFUL !! That thing can come out like a "LARGE" bullet. You need a "PICKLE FORK" It goes between the ball joint and the lower "A" frame, then you smack the pickle fork with a hammer and they wiil seperate. Run a length of chain through the upper A frame through the coil and through the lower A frame, HOOKING IT BACK TO ITSELF. keeping the chain relatively loose and a jack (or something) under the lower A frame, jack the crossmember up relieving the coil pressure off of the a frames when the coil is no longer under any stress remove the chain and coil. RON

08-22-2002, 08:07 PM	#5
RON WOODGEARD Resident Young Old Dude ! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Nevada Posts: 1,948	OK ANDY, We were typing at the same time.... YOU BEAT ME !!!! I've never tried the" bottle jack" trick.. good idea.. RON

08-22-2002, 08:13 PM	#6
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Thanks Ron, i came up with that one when i had to seperate the lower ball joint on my GMC...No tellin how long it had been there, but the pickle fork and a 5 lb sledge just wouldn't do it. So I tried this, and it worked like a charm. Back yard be d@mned, I like this way the best.

08-22-2002, 08:23 PM	#7
Zkast Account Suspended Join Date: May 2002 Location: Olathe, Kansas Posts: 929	These balljoint/spindle setups are nearly 1.5inches apart making a pickle fork tough to use. Unless you have an oversized (thick) one that can fill that space with room left over, your basicly just hitting the ball joint stud causing it to seperate from the vibrations. Hate to see a good ball joint boot go to waste lol I think we were all typing at the same time LOL

08-22-2002, 09:54 PM	#9
Zkast Account Suspended Join Date: May 2002 Location: Olathe, Kansas Posts: 929	I assumed you had a floor jack... DO NOT attempt this with a bottle jack or sicsor jack. Letting the control arm down needs to be a very controlled movement with plenty of support.

08-22-2002, 10:04 PM	#11
Huck Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Shelbyville, KY Posts: 3,269	Had a friend named Bernie. WE were supposed to go out one saturday night chasing ladies. When I got to his house to pick him up, his mother said he was not going. I said we had it all planned~~~~. She had me come in to the house. Bernie was sitting in the living room in his bathrobe with his legs spred far apart. I asked what's up? He explained that he was changing the front coil springs in his 57 chevy when one of them went flying. It hit the ground, then the ceiling, then the gound, then in an area that football players wear a CUP. His little thingies were the size of CANTELOPEs!! BE real careful and take the precaution of chaining or tying the coils in place till the tension is off or your little thingies will be the size of CANTELOPES~~~~. Needless to say, Bernie didn't go with me that night---or for that matter, he didn't go out for several days!!! Woos!

08-22-2002, 10:20 PM	#12
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Ouch, a spring to the pills, that could put big jim and the twins out od commision for a while, if not forever.

08-22-2002, 10:46 PM	#14
Benrs86 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Brandon, SD, USA Posts: 1,292	man, there is a reason to be careful, i will find a chain before i start workin on it tomrrow __________________ Brandon, SD 69 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd wide long bed with wood 3 on the tree 350 engine 4 bolt main rv cam AIM = Alphray04

08-22-2002, 10:50 PM	#15
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	hey....longhorn...was that some of a slam....(bigjim)...LOL __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

08-22-2002, 11:20 PM	#16
minibike Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Lafayette, LA Posts: 500	Ball joints are not that expensive, so if they are questionable, it would be a good time to replace them. Some of the autoparts stores rent the press for the bottom one and the top one comes right out after drilling the rivets out. If you decide to replace them, then you can use the pickle fork. They go for about $8 at Autozone. Just did mine last week. __________________ 69 SWB LT1/4L60E www.classicplace.com

08-22-2002, 11:59 PM	#17
Scrub Collector of rusty Items Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Sisters,Oregon USA Posts: 731	I think ya'all are nuts taking the ball joints apart. I can change a set of springs out in an hour. Jack up the truck good and throw some big firewood blocks under the frame at the front of the doors. Pull the tires and shocks loose. Now put your floor jack under the inside pin on the lower a-frame, the big one that is just under the oil-pan. Put good preasure on it and then remove the 2 u-bolts that hold it on. Now let down the jack. the Springs will fall out. You might have to remove the steering rods too, but I don't think so just to change springs. Just reverse the process to put them back. I think this is a heck of a lot safer and easier than spliting ball joints. Good luck __________________ Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends.

08-23-2002, 12:09 AM	#18
Zkast Account Suspended Join Date: May 2002 Location: Olathe, Kansas Posts: 929	I would tend to think that way is more risky.. If you seperate at the ball joint, you know you have 2 good wide pivot points so the control arm will not twist one way or the other. If you remove the control arm u bolts, you then only have 1 pivot and if your jack moves ANY you'll have that spring saying hello to you. just MHO though...

08-23-2002, 12:31 AM	#19
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	ok..to show my ignorance..can you cut a half of coil off the spring while on the truck? __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

08-23-2002, 08:19 AM	#20
minibike Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Lafayette, LA Posts: 500	I don't think it would be a good idea. You will need to make sure you keept the smaller end of the spring in the same orientation in the pocket (top), after you cut the coil 1/2. The bottom won't fit the the formed end right, but I am going to try it on mine. If the bottom is in the formed end right, it rotates the top 1/2 turn, which takes it out of center. Then teh spring rubs on the cross member. __________________ 69 SWB LT1/4L60E www.classicplace.com

08-23-2002, 09:19 PM	#23
Benrs86 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Brandon, SD, USA Posts: 1,292	hey, i gave up tryin to get that ball joint out. it was makin me mad. i did scrubs way. piece of cake, had the springs out in less than an hour. very cool, wonder why i didnt think of that. lol. but now, i want about a 2 or 3 inch lower, so one coil or two? THANKS, Ben __________________ Brandon, SD 69 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd wide long bed with wood 3 on the tree 350 engine 4 bolt main rv cam AIM = Alphray04

08-24-2002, 01:58 AM	#24
Low68 Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 758	Hey I didn't read everyone's, but I don't think this was mentioned. I have tried this before(honestly I can't remember if it worked or not) but loosen the lower ball joint and put the wheel back on, lower it on the wheel and bounce the truck up and down as hard as you can. If you can't get it on the lower ball joint, try it on the upper. If it doesn't work, you didn't pound up and ball joints or tear up any boots. Be careful if you start wacking on the nut on the ball joint. Unless you are lucky, you will have a hard time trying to find an nut that will fit. Good Luck and let us know what works. Low68 __________________ Build Thread

08-24-2002, 11:15 AM	#25
Zkast Account Suspended Join Date: May 2002 Location: Olathe, Kansas Posts: 929	That reminds me of something... I just re-read my post and thought I should clarify something if someone is to use this method. Use the hammer to hit the side of the spindle where the ball joint stud goes through, not the ball joint stud.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.