I need a HUGE favor

[1987 Shortwide]

can someone who's got their wheels off their truck already do a little measuring for me? I'm almost sure that the 10 bolt and the 12 bolt are the same width, but mine's a 12 bolt.

I need these measurements.
1) overall width of the rearend, So I'm sure that it's the same as mine.
2) Then I need the distance from the outside of the drum (surface that the wheel is bolted to) to the inside of the fender lip in the top center of the opening.

Basically, I've gotta narrow my rearend for the 28X 14.5's and I don't have a box together to measure. If I could get a good accurate measurement from one (preferably more of you that come up with the SAME numbers ) then I could get it narrowed now, while I'm doing the frame.

Thanks a million in advance

[Captkaos]

All of the rear diffs 10bolt vs 12bolt are the same dimensions. It should be 62.5" if memory serves correct. I can confirm that when I get to the garage. As for box measurements, I can't get those for you, since my be isn't on/near.

[1987 Shortwide]

Originally Posted by Captkaos

All of the rear diffs 10bolt vs 12bolt are the same dimensions. It should be 62.5" if memory serves correct. I can confirm that when I get to the garage. As for box measurements, I can't get those for you, since my be isn't on/near.

Thanks for that info anyways. As you can imagine, I'm just trying to get a number as accurate as possible, because I DONT want to have to narrow or widen this thing later if it doesn't fit

[piecesparts]

I changed the rear ends in one of the trucks (86 Chevy shortbed) that I have here and the 10 bolt and the 12 bolt were the same length. The difference is the input shaft for the differential is a little shorter than a 10 bolt and the driveline may not be exactly right after a change.
By the way anyone need a complete 10 bolt (3.08) rear end. Brake drums and all. It is in good shape, I removed it to go to the 12 bolt posi unit and it is just sitting here in the middle of Knasas.

[bigblock73]

Steven, I just went out and measured my 12 bolt, it measured EXACTLY 64" from outside of each drum to the actual wheel mating surface, not the bumps outs that are on the outside lip of the drum (that don't actually touch the wheel).

I measured 56 3/4" to the inside of each drum, and 3 5/8" for each drum thickness.

I can't do a box measurement either since my bed is off as well.

[boxrodz]

87Shortwide-
It's been a while since I measured it, but the last time I checked, the distance between the mounting surface on the drum and the inside of the fender lip was/is 6 3/4". I didn't measure both sides, but I assume the axle is sitting centered under the frame/box (shortwide).

[1987 Shortwide]

Well, I ended up going off of wheel spacing instead. I measured from the drum-mating surface of each set of wheels (old and new) to the front of the rim, then subracted the difference.

Dropped the rear off today, it'll be done next week sometime. Heres the lowdown on it.
-GM 12 bolt w/ 3.43 gears
-Narrowed 5" overall (2.5 from each side)
-Getting a set of Strange hardened axles
-it's already got a Powertrax locker in it, that'll stay until I grenade it
-New axle tube ends (use the ford 9" bearings instead of C-clip eliminators, but these aftermarket tube ends also allow chevrolet brakes to bolt up)
-3" studs
All together the the narrowing, new bearings, axles, and studs all together come up to about 500$ give or take, but it'll be a nice stout 12 bolt when it's done, and the gears will be right where I want them with the turbo motor.

Also done today:
-Installed all the poly A-arm bushings in the A-arms
-Purchased: Brake pads,new calipers, Hardware, some lines, front rotors, and front wheel bearings.

I won't get the frame finished this weekend like I wanted, but I'll get it all together next weekend at the latest I hope, and it sure as hell should be nice!