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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: pleasanton, CA
Posts: 570
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starting issues
My truck('69 GMC with a 350) didnt start this morning. I tested my battery and it had a full 12 volts(after I jumped it and drove it around). I then tested the alternator and it was putting out around low 13 volts. I checked my dads powerstroke diesel and his alternator was putting out mid 14's on volts. What could the problem be here? Untill like 2 days ago, when it cranked before it started, it would relatively fast, and now it cranks a little slower. This leads me to believe that maybe the starter is going out. But the thing was when it didnt start before, the radio/lights didnt work either. What is wrong with it? could it be the voltage regulator aswell?
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-Steve |
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#2 |
Designated A-hole!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: South Mississippi
Posts: 36,450
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Re: starting issues
Have your alternator tested at any parts store. You can have your battery tested also. Most chain stores do it for free. If it is your alternator, may be a good time to do the upgrade to internally regulated.
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. ![]() We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: pleasanton, CA
Posts: 570
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Re: starting issues
thanks for that. Is there any way to test to see if my voltage regulator is the problem? Also, what are the pro's and cons with an internal vs. external regulator in a new alternator?
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-Steve |
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#4 |
Registered Cruiser
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 2,230
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Re: starting issues
There's a little power block on the passenger side inner fender next to the battery.. Make sure the connections are clean, and tight... G/L
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I intend to live forever. So far, so good. |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: pleasanton, CA
Posts: 570
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Re: starting issues
also, is it difficult to change over to an internal regulated atlernator?
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-Steve |
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#6 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Lewisville, Nc
Posts: 10,234
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Re: starting issues
no its not it took me about 45 mins i'd recomend switching over to an internator volt reg i got mine off an 83 chevy k-10 4x4 its an Palladium ALTERNATOR PREMIUM Part Number: P7127M3 from advance auto lifetime free replacement 38.88 anyway heres the link to the converstion if you end up with an bad alt. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=119379
some pros and cons? pros are my headlights are brigther and it seem to be more stable the old voltage regs stick open. my lights would fligger now they are steady plus with in int.reg you can get an alt that has prennty of amps to run what ever you want
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David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Killingworth, CT. USA
Posts: 3,378
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Re: starting issues
Note, in order to get a true reading of your charging system with a volt meter you need to start off with the battery FULLY charged, as close to 12.68 volts as you can get, then with clean connections and a tight belt, attach the volt meter to battery, start engine and ideally you want to see 14.2 volts, 13.8-14.5 volts will pass. If the battery is not fully charged you will get a poor reading leading you to believe the charging system has problems. Low 13's could be the result of the battery being low. Put that battery on a slow trickle charge over night and test the charging system again before you spend any money. If the alternator/ regulator needs replacing, switching over to the integral alternator is the way to go!
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1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist. |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: pleasanton, CA
Posts: 570
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Re: starting issues
ok so, i am going to replace the alternator with an internally regulated one. what would be the easiest somewhat factory alternator swap be from? like a GM part of a AC delco kinda thing. a quality brand
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-Steve |
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#9 |
resU deretsigeR
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Belleville Illinois
Posts: 27
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Re: starting issues
I just read your thread and have to agree that a more modern alternator is the way to go. What kind of $ are you ready to drop is the next question you may want to ask. When you upgrade, a new alternator can get quite pricey. $100 and up. I would check the phone book and try to find an automotive electrical rebuild company/shop and let them know what you are trying to do. These folks sometimes have good rebuilds sitting for a while and will part with them fairly reasonably. They should have someone knowledgable to explain what differences in their parts and if they don't call the next guy until you find someone willing to deal with you. Delco-Remy has a gazillion different numbers that translate into many models that will fit your application. That is where the rebuilders will be worth your time in research. Also, make sure all your cables (battery, starter, chassis ground, engine ground, and starter selenoid wires) are good. If there is green corrosion, a frayed wire, or a loose connection it too will need to be fixed following Gordo's diagnosis tree. The corrosion and poor grounds could also contribute to a slow cranking problem.
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: pleasanton, CA
Posts: 570
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Re: starting issues
ok, so i got a wiring diagram, and all it looks like to me is that on the stock one, the power goes from the alt, to the volt reg, and then to the battery, and some of the power goes straight from the alt to the battery. And then, the volt reg is grounded to the gauge. In the internally regulated, the alt goes straight to the battery and ground to the gauge....is this how it works? if so, then an internally regulated on would be a fairly easy swap right?
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-Steve |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: starting issues
b-4 doing alot of needless work why don't you clean up the battery terminals and ground connections to the frame and clean the post where the batt cable hooks to the starter??? shiney metal to shiney metal makes a big differance !!!!
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: pleasanton, CA
Posts: 570
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Re: starting issues
well its not just the starting issue anymore...the gauge now only reads in the middle, where as i am told it is supposed to read more towards the C
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-Steve Last edited by llegos; 01-15-2006 at 03:42 AM. |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: starting issues
my point is===electrical systems don't work properly with bad corroded connections!! if you don't want to try the basics(free) and just jump in by throwing parts$$$ at it go for it
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#14 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Knoxville Tenn.
Posts: 3,058
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Re: starting issues
Quote:
http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml
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