Help troubleshooting.... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

red71cheyenne · 03-26-2006, 07:26 PM

Well, the Blazer runs and I can almost drive it now, just a few things left to fix. How do I troubleshoot the power steering? Deciding whether its the pump or gear that is. Also, how do I adjust the clutch? I have the rod all the way out and can just barely get it in gear. If I adjust it in any, I can't get it in gear. Finally, drum brakes. I bench bled the new master cylinder and then vacuum bled all the lines til I had fluid at all the wheels, but still no brakey? Thanks for the help, and I'll take video next time of the door falling out the back as I drop the clutch!!!! Jeff.

Blazerb61 · 03-26-2006, 08:08 PM

On the master cylinder did you use the plugs to bench bleed it ? If so redo it with lines into the resivoir always works

hotrodhomi · 03-26-2006, 09:24 PM

WHen you bleed the brakes make sure you don't run the resivior dry or you will need to start over

red71cheyenne · 03-26-2006, 10:05 PM

Ya, I bled it with the plugs this time. Do you just use some hose to do it? So that it just dumps back into itself? I'll try that next. Thanks, Jeff.

hotrodhomi · 03-26-2006, 10:13 PM

I don't... but you can.

red71cheyenne · 03-26-2006, 10:22 PM

Is there another way that will work better? I tried having the wife pump and hold while I bled, but that didn't work very well either.

ian villeza · 03-27-2006, 01:00 AM

The most important part of bleeding brakes is adjusting the brake shoes first.
Make sure you get both shoes seated properly, I tighten then all the way up one at a time till the wheel is totally locked up and then loosen till you get about a turn out of them when you try and spin them. Make sure you adjust each side individually. Makes the whole bleed process a snap and you will have much more solid brakes.

hotrodhomi · 03-27-2006, 01:06 AM

I agree^^^ also- sometimes they need to be centered after you replace them. I smack them back and forth with the palm of my hand until they are perfect. Don't hit them with anything hard.

red71cheyenne · 03-27-2006, 11:11 AM

Thanks guys, I'll try setting the brake shoes first, then bleeding. How do I tell if the rod is adjusted properly on the master cylinder? I didn't change the rod, but the master cylinder is new.

ian villeza · 03-27-2006, 05:24 PM

When it comes to the rod it's all about free play. The rod should have at least 1/4 inch free play, Meaning that the pedal moves freely before the rod engages the master cylinder. Also I have always been taught and used the theory of bleeding the wheel cylinders farthest away from the master cylinder first. If you have power booster you should be bleeding with engine running for power booster assist.

71jimmy · 03-27-2006, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ian villeza

When it comes to the rod it's all about free play. The rod should have at least 1/4 inch free play, Meaning that the pedal moves freely before the rod engages the master cylinder. Also I have always been taught and used the theory of bleeding the wheel cylinders farthest away from the master cylinder first. If you have power booster you should be bleeding with engine running for power booster assist.

I agree with you, and in no way am I trying to argue with you, BUT the factory manual says the exact opposite.

I always thought this was odd, but I never published a factory manual so I went with it. Never did get it to my liking. Now, I'll redo it the way it should have been done in the first place I guess.

red71cheyenne · 03-27-2006, 09:26 PM

Hmm, well these are just plain old brakes, no power except for my foot! hehe. I adjusted the rod like you were saying, had to move it in about an inch! Seems to be feeling more like there is pedal there. Bled the farthest back one then the other, and the passenger front. Seems to be more pedal now. Can't bleed the driver side front, as the nut is stripped. Guess I'll have to tear the cylinder out of that one and rework the bleeder nut. Thanks for the help guys, Jeff.

hotrodhomi · 03-27-2006, 10:49 PM

The nut striped on my '81 I had to hammer a smaller wrench on to it to get it loose. It is real soft metal. If you cant bleed all of the brakes then you could still have air. It won't be perfect until you bleed the whole system.

Jason915 · 03-28-2006, 10:07 AM

with your clutch check all of your linkage from the pedal down to the clutch it self you may have worn parts that are not letting you get proper adjustment.

03-26-2006, 07:26 PM	#1
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	Help troubleshooting.... Well, the Blazer runs and I can almost drive it now, just a few things left to fix. How do I troubleshoot the power steering? Deciding whether its the pump or gear that is. Also, how do I adjust the clutch? I have the rod all the way out and can just barely get it in gear. If I adjust it in any, I can't get it in gear. Finally, drum brakes. I bench bled the new master cylinder and then vacuum bled all the lines til I had fluid at all the wheels, but still no brakey? Thanks for the help, and I'll take video next time of the door falling out the back as I drop the clutch!!!! Jeff. __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

03-26-2006, 08:08 PM	#2
Blazerb61 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Davenport Iowa Posts: 115	Re: Help troubleshooting.... On the master cylinder did you use the plugs to bench bleed it ? If so redo it with lines into the resivoir always works

03-26-2006, 09:24 PM	#3
hotrodhomi Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,737	Re: Help troubleshooting.... WHen you bleed the brakes make sure you don't run the resivior dry or you will need to start over __________________ '72 2wd blazer, bagged w/ watts link & EDC '72 C10 "Lowered Farm Truck" STOLEN 5-18-11 '66 impala ht

03-26-2006, 10:05 PM	#4
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	Re: Help troubleshooting.... Ya, I bled it with the plugs this time. Do you just use some hose to do it? So that it just dumps back into itself? I'll try that next. Thanks, Jeff. __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

03-26-2006, 10:13 PM	#5
hotrodhomi Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,737	Re: Help troubleshooting.... I don't... but you can. __________________ '72 2wd blazer, bagged w/ watts link & EDC '72 C10 "Lowered Farm Truck" STOLEN 5-18-11 '66 impala ht

03-26-2006, 10:22 PM	#6
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	Re: Help troubleshooting.... Is there another way that will work better? I tried having the wife pump and hold while I bled, but that didn't work very well either. __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

03-27-2006, 01:00 AM	#7
ian villeza Active Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hawaii Posts: 153	Re: Help troubleshooting.... The most important part of bleeding brakes is adjusting the brake shoes first. Make sure you get both shoes seated properly, I tighten then all the way up one at a time till the wheel is totally locked up and then loosen till you get about a turn out of them when you try and spin them. Make sure you adjust each side individually. Makes the whole bleed process a snap and you will have much more solid brakes.

03-27-2006, 01:06 AM	#8
hotrodhomi Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,737	Re: Help troubleshooting.... I agree^^^ also- sometimes they need to be centered after you replace them. I smack them back and forth with the palm of my hand until they are perfect. Don't hit them with anything hard. __________________ '72 2wd blazer, bagged w/ watts link & EDC '72 C10 "Lowered Farm Truck" STOLEN 5-18-11 '66 impala ht

03-27-2006, 11:11 AM	#9
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	Re: Help troubleshooting.... Thanks guys, I'll try setting the brake shoes first, then bleeding. How do I tell if the rod is adjusted properly on the master cylinder? I didn't change the rod, but the master cylinder is new. __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

03-27-2006, 05:24 PM	#10
ian villeza Active Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hawaii Posts: 153	Re: Help troubleshooting.... When it comes to the rod it's all about free play. The rod should have at least 1/4 inch free play, Meaning that the pedal moves freely before the rod engages the master cylinder. Also I have always been taught and used the theory of bleeding the wheel cylinders farthest away from the master cylinder first. If you have power booster you should be bleeding with engine running for power booster assist.

03-27-2006, 09:26 PM	#12
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	Re: Help troubleshooting.... Hmm, well these are just plain old brakes, no power except for my foot! hehe. I adjusted the rod like you were saying, had to move it in about an inch! Seems to be feeling more like there is pedal there. Bled the farthest back one then the other, and the passenger front. Seems to be more pedal now. Can't bleed the driver side front, as the nut is stripped. Guess I'll have to tear the cylinder out of that one and rework the bleeder nut. Thanks for the help guys, Jeff. __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

03-27-2006, 10:49 PM	#13
hotrodhomi Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,737	Re: Help troubleshooting.... The nut striped on my '81 I had to hammer a smaller wrench on to it to get it loose. It is real soft metal. If you cant bleed all of the brakes then you could still have air. It won't be perfect until you bleed the whole system. __________________ '72 2wd blazer, bagged w/ watts link & EDC '72 C10 "Lowered Farm Truck" STOLEN 5-18-11 '66 impala ht

03-28-2006, 10:07 AM	#14
Jason915 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 693	Re: Help troubleshooting.... with your clutch check all of your linkage from the pedal down to the clutch it self you may have worn parts that are not letting you get proper adjustment. __________________ 1971 GMC K1500 SWB Fleetside, 4" skyjacker softride and, 14 Bolt FF, HD Dana 44 4.10's 1970 K5 TBI conversion lifted etc SOLD 1968 C20 camper truck SOLD “To ban guns because criminals use them is to tell the innocent and law-abiding that their rights and liberties depend not on their own conduct, but on the conduct of the guilty and the lawless.” Jeff Snyder



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