Body lift problem

[Hobbs]

I am doing a performance accessories 2’’ body lift on my 88 suburban. There are 7 places on each side that the body is mounted to the chassis. Numbering them 1-7 starting at the engine, I have a big problem with 4,and 6

1-3 are straight forward. From the bottom you see the bolt head that can be unscrewed.
(I did not take it all the way off yet, but I assume it is screwed into threads in to the body)
4 and 6 are completely different from 1-3. The only thing visible is a flat “stopper” under the mounting block. Nothing to attach a wrench to. I thought maybe that I could find something by looking under the flooring from inside the cab. Thinking that the bolt was oriented facing the ground and that "stopper" was actually some type of nut. Nothing under the floor carpet.

Any advice as to how to approach these attachments?

If it comes to it, I could take pictures because I am stumped.

Thanks,

Hobbs

[Southedisto]

IIRC the ones that you can not see are nut plates molded into the body. I had a problem with one, had to cut a hole in the interior and body to put vise grips on it. Dont sweat it unless the bolts can not be removed. Also, use some lube when screwing the new bolts in.

[Hobbs]

Please elaborate....
Do you mean that the one you did not have a problem with screwing off, you just unscrewed the nut plates? And looking ahead, if I have a blind insertion of the screw, how am I going to insert the new longer one?

i apologize if these questions are one of those things that will answer itself once I start unscrewing, but I am trying to anticipate problems before I have my help standing there.

Thanks for your response.

Hobbs

[Southedisto]

Some nut plates are hidden, like behind the seats of trucks, and you cant see them to know what is happening. If you unscrew and unscrew and the bolt doesnt come out you need to investigate find the receptacle cut a hole and chisel, vise grip or weld something to remove the bolt. The nut plates are spot welded to the body, so they either break loose or the nut spins inside of the fixture. Either way, you will most likely have to cut a hole. The nuts are centered, for the most part with the plate around it.

[Hobbs]

I really appreciate your explanation, but when I look up from underneath, the only thing I see is the nut plate. The nut plate up against the spacer between the chassis and the body. There is no screw, no hexigon nut. That is the problem. There is nothing to grab and spin. I can see what I would buy to be the nut plate, just can not see a screw.

I understand what you are saying, unscrewing from a nut plate can cause the plate to spin THEN, you have to grab it, maybe cuting the floor to get to it. But I can get to the nut plate, just not the screw.


Should I twist the nut screw?

Hobbs

[Southedisto]

Any way to take a pic? If not give me spot and Ill go crawl under mine and look at it. I only have a truck, so hopefully someone with a burb may know something I am forgetting

[Hobbs]

pic of the body attachment I was asking about.
Hobbs

did not work

[Hobbs]

maybe now?

[Hobbs]

Cool...Now you can see what I was talking about. This is a view from underneath looking at the 4th from the front body attachement. Nothing to unscrew and nothing visible from the inside under the carpet. Hope I do not have to dig these out through the floor.

Hobbs

[Bob Gervais]

The Burbs have two places, which happen to be #4 and #6 positions, which don't have bolts or nuts. The mount is nothing more than a spacer to help support the bed area. Once you get all of one side loosened and jack up the body, those two bushings just pop out. No hardware involved.

[Hobbs]

Many thanks Bob!
I thought as much, but the last thing I wanted to do was get in the middle of this project and get stuck.

Hobbs

[Bob Gervais]

Originally Posted by Hobbs

Many thanks Bob!
I thought as much, but the last thing I wanted to do was get in the middle of this project and get stuck.

Hobbs

I hear ya man. I replaced my body mounts last year, and thought I was missing more parts than I thought!

[Hobbs]

Finished the pro accessory 2" body lift. Yea! I however learned that suspension/body lifts are like breast augmentations...you never go big enough.

I have found a Tough Country 2" suspension lift for a 2wd that I am looking into. Anybody have any experience with it? That would give me 4". I have some 33" BFG's I am going to add. At this point clearance is really not an issue, it is all about the look.

[Hobbs]

by the way... from this pic does it seem like my rear end is sagging? I was thinking about those 0 rate add a leafs to prop up the rear that Bob turned me on to.

Hobbs

[Bob Gervais]

Looks good!

Suburban and Blazer sag are sometimes an optical illusion. The wheelwell openings are at different heights, making it look saggy in the rear. The best way to tell would be to take a measurement to the bottom of the rocker panel on each end, and compare. I found that mine sagged at the rocker panels when I had the 2" lift leaf springs installed, so I added the zero rate and it evened things out at the rocker panel, but still looked saggy because of the wheelwells. You may want to think about just adding the zero rates, or 2" lift rear springs and see how it looks before you tackle the front.

Now that I've switched to the 56" 3/4 ton stock springs, my Burb sits nose high. Not a biggie, because I figured it would come out like that, but I do need to address it. I think what I'm going to do is a shackle flip kit from 4XDIY in the rear. That'll put it slightly nose down when unloaded, but even when loaded with all my junk.

[ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR]

ITS funny i found this post today--because i am doing the same exact body lift--and 4-6 had me stumped---but we got it figured out--now bob--to put nuts and blots back in--one has to drill through the inside bed--and attach a large washer--correct---how about bolt--or holder no 6--what do we do there--to attach a bolt...most people with burbs--do not put back in 4-6 --put i think that is stupid--the more stablity one can get--the better....i cannot figure six out---that is how to put a bolt and nut through....by the way hobs--did you drop your tank and rear bumper...we drop the tank and tow hitch--but i do not want to drop the reunel rear bumper--we also took out the raditor and the front vertical core support beam....what esle did you drop...bob please let me know how to get that 6 bolt in....also bob--thanks for the info on ri beaches---i'll be there this fall fishing for stripers....god i cannot wait....thanks guys
aab
john

[screwballl]

Originally Posted by Hobbs

Finished the pro accessory 2" body lift. Yea! I however learned that suspension/body lifts are like breast augmentations...you never go big enough.

I have found a Tough Country 2" suspension lift for a 2wd that I am looking into. Anybody have any experience with it? That would give me 4". I have some 33" BFG's I am going to add. At this point clearance is really not an issue, it is all about the look.

hmmm yours looks now liek mine does stock.. guess they had different heights in 91...

[Bob Gervais]

Originally Posted by ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR

ITS funny i found this post today--because i am doing the same exact body lift--and 4-6 had me stumped---but we got it figured out--now bob--to put nuts and blots back in--one has to drill through the inside bed--and attach a large washer--correct---how about bolt--or holder no 6--what do we do there--to attach a bolt...most people with burbs--do not put back in 4-6 --put i think that is stupid--the more stablity one can get--the better....i cannot figure six out---that is how to put a bolt and nut through....by the way hobs--did you drop your tank and rear bumper...we drop the tank and tow hitch--but i do not want to drop the reunel rear bumper--we also took out the raditor and the front vertical core support beam....what esle did you drop...bob please let me know how to get that 6 bolt in....also bob--thanks for the info on ri beaches---i'll be there this fall fishing for stripers....god i cannot wait....thanks guys
aab
john

I didn't put bolts in mine, but I think you are right, the more solid it is the better! I did all new bolts on the mounts that already had bolts, but I just stuck the spacers back in there like they were from the factory.

No problem on the info, let me know when you're headed this way!

[MASiefert]

I'm with Screwball, yours looks like it sits lower or about the same as my 85 3/4 ton. I had to replace some of the leaves in my rear springs 2 years ago. It helped the sag tremendously.
Good Luck!
MAS

[Hobbs]

Originally Posted by ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR

ITS funny i found this post today--because i am doing the same exact body lift--and 4-6 had me stumped---but we got it figured out--now bob--to put nuts and blots back in--one has to drill through the inside bed--and attach a large washer--correct---how about bolt--or holder no 6--what do we do there--to attach a bolt...most people with burbs--do not put back in 4-6 --put i think that is stupid--the more stablity one can get--the better....i cannot figure six out---that is how to put a bolt and nut through....by the way hobs--did you drop your tank and rear bumper...we drop the tank and tow hitch--but i do not want to drop the reunel rear bumper--we also took out the raditor and the front vertical core support beam....what esle did you drop...bob please let me know how to get that 6 bolt in....also bob--thanks for the info on ri beaches---i'll be there this fall fishing for stripers....god i cannot wait....thanks guys
aab
john

To answer your questions to me....
1. I did not change anything with the tank or rear bumper. My rear bumper stayed put. That is the one thing about a body lift that looks a little off. You create a space bt. the raised body and the original bumper. As for the radiator I cut the bottom off the shroud to allow it to move with the body. Acutually did that without taking it out. Just a hack saw with my head stuck down into the engine.
2. I agree it would be nice to have 4 and 6 bolted on. I did not. I did put them back by inserting a bolt between the original and the added lift block. If only to keep the two together. But they are not attached to the body.

Good luck.

Hobbs