Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics

[OrrieG]

Update on the last months progress between two massive colds and two weeks on the road. Got the cab blocked and started fixing a couple of places that still needed work on the body. Then it got too cold to put on plastic or paint (L=25, H=50 are current averages). So decided to drop the cab back on the frame (first time its been there in a couple of years) and work on seat, steering, ebrake and other stuff that just takes fabrication and welding. So here are the photos of the cab dangling, on the frame, clearance at the transmission and transfer shifter, clearance at the firewall.

[OrrieG]

This is a shot of my emergency brake set up. I have not seen anyone else do this and it is so EASY I wanted to share. The brake is out of a 74 pickup. I found that the firewall bolt spacing is the same as the 59 hood hinge. I used a die grinder to cut off the studs and drilled out what was left of the bolt. I use 1.5" long bolts at the hinge and the brake bracket slipped right over. It sits nice and tight along the left side panel. I will need to fabricate a small bracket for the bolt closest to the door. A hole for the cable will be needed at the firewall. I will need to figure out a connection between the other end and the stock 59 accuator arm but that should be easy too. I have to think some GM engineer must have thought about this.

[OrrieG]

Got the emergency brake figured out, will post photos when I put it back together after painting. Also working on the fuel line between the tank and main line. Installed the fuel sender, what a wresting match, instructions were basically worthless. I ended up doing the workbench mock up to get the sending unit bend and length right, then got to do it again because I forgot the tank was internally baffled!

Big progress has been the seat frame. Seats are 3rd row from an 07 Yukon. Would not recommend them for a large person but fit me and wife fine (we are both about 5'-6" and 165#. Anyway first three are of the basic frame with seat front installed then fully down. When in the cab I will be able to tilt back forward or pivot whole seat up to access under seat.

[OrrieG]

Next series show the seat in the truck, tape is the bottom of the door window opening, 5" is the height I will need above the floor. Also included a shot from the back to show what you will see thru the back window and clearance (8" at bottom) behind the seat.

[OrrieG]

Got a late Christmas present. Sold the original seat to a guy working on a 56 who wants a stock seat. We were talking and he asked if I had the original heater assembly, his was missing when he got the truck. I told him I did but was hanging on to it because I did not know if I would be able to get the aftermarket AC/Heat from Vintage Air or Old Time and might need to just throw the stock stuff back in. He said he got a used Vintage Air system (inside stuff only, no condenser, compressor, hoses or dryer) with his truck and would trade it for my stock stuff! We are swapping tomorrow. I checked and VA has the installation manual on line and any small parts that are missing are available too. Forward progress continues...the guy is a former auto body guy and painter and has offered up his shop for me to paint in also. Sound like I've made a new friend, I love this hobby.

Later=it arrived and has more stuff than I thought complete with hoses except for compressor and condenser. Will need a new dryer and I will need new guts for my worn out stock controls. Here is a poor phone photo or the stuff. One less thing to worry about.

[50adrod]

I am in the process of building the seat frames for my buckets in my 50, one thing I learned is the seats are lower in the back than the front. I had mine all level and it looked wrong. the back is 1 to 1.5 inches lower than the front.

[OrrieG]

Well January has been interesting. Downsized and moved by business office. Computer networking wiring is just about as bad a under a truck dash. Didn't have time to do anything on the truck but now its starting to get warmer and I am itching to start again. May try and get my winch working in the interium.

[1985-GMC]

Yeah, lately we've been having 70 degree weather for the most part, now i just need to get back working on my truck.

[nuke1]

looking good, it is definetly getting there, what are you gonna do for sealing the column to the floor?

[OrrieG]

I will set the bottom plate in sealant, then plan on turning on a bright light on the outside and sealing any light leakes with seam sealer. Heat barrier and carpet will go over that so it should be fume tight. Around the brake I will use felt much like stock.

[OrrieG]

Swine flu wiped me out for a while. Did get the exhaust manifolds done. Used the POR Cast Iron Hi Temp product. Flows and covers nicely in one coat. After 24 hours ok to handle. Still cleaning up the bed parts so I can get them etch primed and start some body work. Looks like this year will be like last, try and get some body work and priming done then stop until sping. Can still get the bed floor done, ac set up and build a console, figure out stero, etc.

[hotrodsbyray]

I haven't put the shifter cable in yet but found an awesome article on how to do it from one of the custom rodder mags - I didn't save the site but printed the article. I will check my shop files and see if I can find the site for you. Looks pretty straight forward.

[OrrieG]

Looking on-line it looks like the Ididit will work best and if not can be mofied easier than the billet Lokar model. Ididit has some horseshoe and half moon deals but I did some mocking up and any rod is going to interfer with something. If you find the article please post it, like you said it doesn't look that hard just have to snake it through the brake, ebrake, speedo cable, vaccum booster line and wiring all in that same location.

[OrrieG]

Last night finished the seat frame. Relearned an old lesson do NOT put the 1/2" drill on auto pilot when drilling deep holes in to metal. I have a broken drill bit, sore wrist and pretty good bruise on my chest from when it caught and things went bad. Luckily it hit the floor and not my leg when I had to let go of it.

[OrrieG]

Lots of progress on steering and seat. First photo is the seat frame completed except for some grinding and paint. Front all thread is 5/8", I wanted adjustment since the seat is a static mount. Next is a close up of the upper steering column mount in final installed position with shims over the thread. Next is bottom plate in place. Hope it warms up soon so I can start painting some of this stuff.

[OrrieG]

Got a 2000 Astro Van intermediate steering shaft at wrecking yard for $10. Upper part fits my 82 Eldorado column (and probably other GM columns) bottom has 3/4" x 36 spline that fits my 74 3/4 ton PS box. First photo shows the astro piece, second the 74 truck intermediate shaft with the cut points shown. Next shows it installed. Astro comes apart and 74 middle piece (DD shaft) us used to splice in. I will pin and spot weld it at the two end splices, the center has 2" to allow for 3/4" movement as the frame flexs. I jacked up each side to see how much movement there would be, simulating running over bumps in the hills. With both wheels up it turns fine with no binding.

[56chevy1300]

Hey OrrieG, you posted on Tri5Nerd's thread on Feb 13 that you were building a dash panel that fits to the bottom of your dash to house your ac/heat vents...how is that coming along? Can you post pics if you have made any progress...I would like to do the same thing.

Thanks!

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by 56chevy1300

Hey OrrieG, you posted on Tri5Nerd's thread on Feb 13 that you were building a dash panel that fits to the bottom of your dash to house your ac/heat vents...how is that coming along? Can you post pics if you have made any progress...I would like to do the same thing.

Thanks!

I make a sketch and started a mock up which was going to include some guages to supplement the stock ones. After looking at guage prices I am now leaning towards just getting a dakota digital to keep the console area cleaner. Until I decide, dash panel is on hold. Plus I came into a little bit of cash to buy some stuff so I can finish the ac hoses, trans cable and other minor things that are starting to get in the way of progress. When I get the dash mock ups they will be posted for comments.

[renegade6]

I found a decent set of Dolphin gauges with billet insert on Ebay. I know they aren't the best brand but, it was about half of anything comparable.

[OrrieG]

Great. I use the Ebay search with notification, and have gotten some good deals too. Craigs list too. With the economy it looks like there is lots of project stashes being raided. I've also noticed that the junk yard prices have come down too. Is it one of the mill-balled ones?? White or black face guages? I am flip flopping around on the face color, leaning towards black but also thinking white would stand out as being different.

[50adrod]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Great. I use the Ebay search with notification, . .

how do you do this?

[renegade6]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Great. I use the Ebay search with notification, and have gotten some good deals too. Craigs list too. With the economy it looks like there is lots of project stashes being raided. I've also noticed that the junk yard prices have come down too. Is it one of the mill-balled ones?? White or black face guages? I am flip flopping around on the face color, leaning towards black but also thinking white would stand out as being different.

It is a milled face one with five gauges. I got the white because it was a great deal but, I like the looks of the black ones a bit better.

I could always work a trade if you find a good deal on the black ones...

[nuke1]

OrrieG, just a piece of advice, on you steering comumn linkage, make sure that the two u-joints are in sync, ie: that the u-joints are inline. your bottom one is out by a 1/4 turn, not trying to make you mad, just trying to help, i do love the genius way of splitting the two shafts and making them wokd though, great job so far.

[OrrieG]

Thanks. They are in the same relative position as stock unless I got the them turned 180 degrees. All of the shafts are "D" type so they can't get turned 1/4 (90 degree turn). I will check it again against the before pictures and see what is up. You question is one reason I am doing detailed posts, I like having other eyes critically looking at what I am doing. I run my office the same way, if we screw up people get hurt, everyone back checks everyone elses work.

Later: I looked at the pictures, I think it might be the camera angle, I'll check tomorrow and let you know what I find.

Next day: Just finished pining the parts together, it is synced right, photo is deceptive because of angle of upper joint. It turns freely with the wheels off the ground with no binding of jerky spots.

Thanks again Nuke for the concern, I do appreciate it. Patrick

[solidaxel]

Thanks for the tip on the shifter cable.