What would you do?

[skokie]

Need some advice here.
I am almost at the point of putting on my new drivers side fender on the 68. It's a new tri plus with the zinc coating. I have read and been told that you would not want to leave that coating on it by itself since it is not very rust resistant. Here is the dilemma. I don't have the $$$$ to get the truck painted. My media blasted put dp90 on the stuff for me after he blasts it. Could I get away with getting a coat of dp90 put on it? It will be at least 18 months before my truck sees paint if not longer.

[72armyswbtruck]

Why not just rattle can it with primer one or two light coats. That should keep it good for a little while and if it does start to fade just reshoot with primer, when it comes time to paint the truck for real the primer is going to be sanded off anyway, well most of it that is.
JM2C

[Longhorn Man]

rattle primer will cause rust too, it absorbs water. You'd need a sealer to do that.

[RACINJASON22]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

rattle primer will cause rust too, it absorbs water. You'd need a sealer to do that.

It's along way off but do you know what brand of paint or shop you are going to use when you do get it painted. Ask them what THEY would like to see on there so you don't run into top coat issues when it is time to paint.

[Musclerodz]

DP90 is a good base and is used for chassis paint, should last till its painted

Mike

[skokie]

How long would DP90 last as is? How about this? Rattle can clear coat the dp90 or would that be a waste?

[bedsled71]

dont rattle can clear.. it will look likejunk..

[skokie]

Originally Posted by RACINJASON22

It's along way off but do you know what brand of paint or shop you are going to use when you do get it painted. Ask them what THEY would like to see on there so you don't run into top coat issues when it is time to paint.

As crazy as it seems most of the shops around here stop talking to me after I say 68 chevy or restore job

[RACINJASON22]

That is a sad fact. They all to often seem that insurance work demands higher prices and they don't even want to bother any more. IMO this is just plain crap. But the almighty dollar does seem to roll. Back here on the east coast it does sound to me that it's a little better than out there on the west coast.

[haokah]

Originally Posted by skokie

As crazy as it seems most of the shops around here stop talking to me after I say 68 chevy or restore job

This is in no way meant to be a "politically incorrect" , or racist statement:

Find a part of town that would have body / paint shops that customize and do build work on old school types of lowriders. Do some cruising, and you will find someone who can do awesome paint and restoration work on old vehicles.

They will probably have some pics and shop examples of work they've done and are doing. While you may or may not want a style of paint they are doing for someone else, you can see examples of their work, and on old rides.
They'll do whatever scheme you want.
They're in business to make money, just like anyone else, but you're less likely to be turned away. ( over a service king type of shop )

[skokie]

I called this place that I looked up spoke to one of the guys that has been painting for 15 years. He told me that dp90 is a epoxy primer that will go over bare metal but it would not be the best thing to leave on the truck unless it was garaged. He said that what I am looking for the best thing to do would be slap on the cheapest paint to guarantee sealing. So that is where I am at right now. I am about half assed thinking about painting the truck in pieces. Hugger orange is the color I am going for in the end.

[RACINJASON22]

You could but I don't recommend painting in pieces if you mean stages. You will run into color match problems IMO.

[skokie]

Originally Posted by RACINJASON22

You could but I don't recommend painting in pieces if you mean stages. You will run into color match problems IMO.

Yep I would. Thought of that after I typed it