Joined the Short Wheelbase Club *69 Tahoe Project*

[toomanytoyz]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Mike I like the look of the opposing handles as well. Use the stock handles for that "Concept Vehicle" look you have already got going. Clean functional with a touch of stock is always a winning combination. Using different vehicle handles or shaving them off will Date the build in a way but stock UN-stock will always be timeless! Going with the Lincoln look will make people say "I have seen that some were before" and confuse them even more

Kevin
LFD Inc.

I Agree with Kevin on this...........

Rick

[LOW DOUGH]

Bad Ace

[LOW DOUGH]

Handles next to each other IMO

[LUV2XCLR8]

Not to Hijack, but a 4dr Porsche would be awesome

[Ackattack]

I vote for the stock handles as pictured.

[VA72C10]

I agree with the consensus that the stock handles shown opposed as you have them are a nice subtle approach to your awesome modifications. Which seems to be the overall theme for the entire build.

[NONHOG]

Your call but that pic. looks great ! Lincoln style is cool ! Kinda has that overseas look to it like it came from "down under" or something ?

[AZ68SUB]

I think it looks perfect just like that!

[XXL]

'My 2 cents' alert...

So long as you're keeping the roof rack, the door handles have to stay on the doors... so no shaving. If you're sticking with the stock look completely, then you should only have a stock-type handle on the passenger rear door, but you CAN'T leave the handles at the rear of the door. That just looks (and operates) goofy for a suicide door. So... assuming my original assertion, one visible handle on the driver's side door, and the passenger doors get "Lincoln'd."

/that is all.

[woodwright]

Maybe this has been brought up before, but have you thought about chopping it? Just a little. I think it looks really cool like it is, But maybe an inch or two to proportion it a little. I would love to build one of these for a family rig. Looks awesome

[Frizzle Fry]

Yes I'm keeping the trim, rack, and stock handles (I like the PT Cruiser handles, but not for this build). I'll most likely go with Lincoln style placement of stock handles on both sides which was my initial instinct. Thanks for all the suggestions/comments guys.

[Frizzle Fry]

More pics:

Rolled it forward enough to open the front door fully


Rust repair will be done in conjunction with this mod...


A little out of focus... It took a lot to get the door on straight. In fact I had to replace the front cab mounts to get the three floor braces back in line. Here the B-Pillar is actually bolted back down in the factory holes to allow me to line up the door and hinge box.


You can see that the panels are just tacked in place enough to get them lined up for locating the hinge




Hinge box tacked in




No swingin door yet. The thing still won't clear for the 180 swing. So I'll have to do that exercise over again and move the hinge box closer to the outer skin to try to get it to clear...

[Rokcrln]

Looks great Mike! I agree with you on needing to move the pivot point of the hinge out as far as you possible can go. All typical hinge pivot's are normally out just in side the door skin so as far out as you can get it the better according to the little voice in my head

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Frizzle Fry]

Well, The pivot point is already as far out as it can go without moving the hinge down. The hinge can't be moved down anymore because of the tub (see pics). So it's a very tight spot for this set-up. The only thing I have left to play with is getting the door side closer to the outside. I only need about a 1/4".

It's currently shimmed out 1/8" from this location and just touches the skin:


Can't move down any further:


Worst case scenario if i can't use the full "180*" it's not the end of the world.

[Rooster's 67]

Dang Mike,
Been a month or so since I last checked on you and Tubby, and I am simply awe-struck. This is nothing short of awesome work, thought, forethought and concept, not to mention execution my friend. Looking thru the last few pages, You were not clear about your hinge/door/body contact or clearance issue to get the full 180 Degree opening. I am assuming that the issue for the full 180 degrees is probably around the wheel arch area, where the arch and body line come together when open? Just a thought (and only from a different fabricators point of view) but if you twisted the hinge outward at the bottom (rotate around a horizontal plane front-rear) just a few degrees that would bring the glass in and the bottom of the door out when open a full 180 degrees. Granted, you seem to be pretty far along in the "square" design and rotating the hinge may be a little involved at this point. None the less it could be a possible solution if that is where your clearance issue is at. Canted hinges do make door adjustments a lot more challenging, as the hinge plane is no longer parallel to the door opening hence hinge adjustment in one plane can affect the door in both planes.
This is just my un-solicited two cents and maybe a little food for a solution.

And put me down for Linc’ style handles. You might think of the original Lincoln handles too, and as I recall they came a little closer together at the door split line (kind of creates a smoothness). Something subtle that many would miss, of course we in our group of 67-72 truck nuts would notice right off that they were not the original truck handles.

Spencer

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Rooster's 67

Dang Mike,
Been a month or so since I last checked on you and Tubby, and I am simply awe-struck. This is nothing short of awesome work, thought, forethought and concept, not to mention execution my friend. Looking thru the last few pages, You were not clear about your hinge/door/body contact or clearance issue to get the full 180 Degree opening. I am assuming that the issue for the full 180 degrees is probably around the wheel arch area, where the arch and body line come together when open? Just a thought (and only from a different fabricators point of view) but if you twisted the hinge outward at the bottom (rotate around a horizontal plane front-rear) just a few degrees that would bring the glass in and the bottom of the door out when open a full 180 degrees. Granted, you seem to be pretty far along in the "square" design and rotating the hinge may be a little involved at this point. None the less it could be a possible solution if that is where your clearance issue is at. Canted hinges do make door adjustments a lot more challenging, as the hinge plane is no longer parallel to the door opening hence hinge adjustment in one plane can affect the door in both planes.
This is just my un-solicited two cents and maybe a little food for a solution.

And put me down for Linc’ style handles. You might think of the original Lincoln handles too, and as I recall they came a little closer together at the door split line (kind of creates a smoothness). Something subtle that many would miss, of course we in our group of 67-72 truck nuts would notice right off that they were not the original truck handles.

Spencer

Thanks for the suggestion Spencer. Yes, the closest points are around the arch. I thought about rotating the hinges as you suggested but didn't want to complicate things. It's gonna work with it flat, just had to move it out as far as possible. I appreciate it though!

[hgs_notes]

Could you use slightly lower tubs or are the tires already too close?

[Frizzle Fry]

Nah, with a dropmember waiting to go in I don't want to limit the rear drop at all. It already won't lay the rear with the tubs in the current location, so I don't want to move them down. Right now with the rear on the bump stops there's about 1/2" tire clearance.

[hgs_notes]

What about moving the rear axle back slightly?

[Frizzle Fry]

That would ne a nice solution if I had room in the notch, but I don't

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

That would ne a nice solution if I had room in the notch, but I don't

How about a notched notch. Gotta think outside the box here. How about cutting the tub to fit around the hinge that pokes through it, then cover the exposed hinge piece with a piece of sheet metal. I know the tire clearance is still gone, but you won't be driving it while sitting on the stops will you?

[Frizzle Fry]

I still have more room to move the door-side hinge box out so I'll try that first. If it still doesn't clear for the 180 swing I'll probably just limit the hinge travel accordingly. The 180 aspect is not a "must-have" for me. It'll still open more than a conventional hinge. I want to maintain the ability to roll on the bump-stops. Not for driving it that way, but for safety purposes if I ever lose a line or bag.

[Frizzle Fry]

Well, I worked on it last night and it's gonna work. I'll post pics when I have the door swingin.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Well, I worked on it last night and it's gonna work. I'll post pics when I have the door swingin.

You replaced that old muffler bearing and it all worked out didn't it!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Well, I worked on it last night and it's gonna work. I'll post pics when I have the door swingin.

Dang it! All I wanted was for you to use one of my ideas so I can claim some small amount of credit when it's on the show circuit and magazine covers. Maybe you'll actually do the front doors the same way and I can claim that.