Dana 44 rebuild

[Critter]

First of all, I know this would probably go best in the 4x4 section, but I generally get a better response here. I am in there process of rebuilding my factory Dana 44 front axel on my 72 K5. I have everything pulled apart except for the carrier assembly which I just assume leave alone if possible (everything seems clean and in good shape). I have some experience with rear axels, but this is my first time to be any deeper than the hubs of a 4x4 front. Anyway, there is a seal inside the housing (#31 on the diagram) that I am confused about. Is this seal just outside of the bearings, or is it farther out on the tube towards the hub? Do I need to remove the carrier assembly to change this out or is it done from the hub side?

[OLDCHEV4X4]

You gotta pull the carrier.

[Critter]

That's what I was expecting. Next question. Are any special tools required or is it about the same as changing a seal on a wheel hub? Yank out the old one with pliers and evenly tap in the new one. I keep getting the idea from other places on the web that they are a pain in the @ss to swap out.

[Chris27]

No special tools. The seals go in from the inside, that's why there a PITA (you have to dissasemble the entire axle). But if you have the diff already apart, it's easy.

[Critter]

Thanks guys, that’s a big help. Being that I only want to do this one time (for a while, at least) can someone confirm a few things for me? I plan to change out:

#31 Oil seal
#49 Oil seal
#51 Oil seal
#52 Needle bearings
#55 Seal
#56 Inner bearing and race
#58 Outer bearing and race

Along with the upper and lower ball joint assemblies, steering joints, and cover gasket of course. Is there anything else I should change out? Everything inside the carrier seems to be in great shape. If I change out the differential bearings, I will have to have the carrier re-shimmed, right? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I am going about this correctly. Unfortunately I am on a very tight deadline to get everything put back together.

[Burt4x4]

I would not touch the diff bearings. Your R&P adjustment shims are inbetween the bearing and the differential. Leave them be unless they fall apart when you remove it. They are pressed onto the diff. Make sure NOT to re-install the diff bearing retainers backwards, put them back in EXACTLY they way they were, # 19 in your pic.
A trick to removing that seal inside the diff housing is to use a broom handel from the wheel side and pound it out by simply using the broom handel like a slide hammer, works great and the wood does not mar or damage the diff.
D44 is perrty simple to rebuild once you get familiar with all the parts.
Good Luck
Burt

[69TowRig]

If you are taking it that far apart you should do the outer pinion shaft oil seal as well.

[EFI70Blazer]

Make sure you mark the caps for the carrier before you remove it if they are not already. They need to stay on the same side they came off of.

Here is a pic of a neat tool to install the inner seals.



I think i may make one when i do mine.

Also to get the carrier out without a spreader, put a wrench on one of the carrier bolts and against the case. Then turn the yolk to get it out.

[Critter]

Ok, Im tired of looking thru various online manuals and getting different numbers from each. What do I torque the bearing caps at? All I can find is info for the Ford D44s and Jeep D44s, and the numbers all vary between 60-90ft-lbs. Everything is going back together pretty good (the caps are just snugged down right now) Hopefully the axle will be ready to put back under the truck tomorrow!!! By the way, if anyone can find this torque spec in the good ol' Haynes or Chilton manuals PLEASE tell me what page it is on. I am about to lose my mind trying to find them!