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Old 06-23-2007, 11:56 PM   #26
EFI70Blazer
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Re: Rear End Destruction.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VDOG View Post
My original shims, one side would slide in no problem, the other side was too thick. Thus my reasoning for a shim kit. I checked the numbers on both carriers and they match. I did have an aligment problem which I why I thought I needed a shims. With it being the same ring and pinion could a simple adjustment be the cure all to my noise problem?
You may need to adjust your backlash. Idealy you want to have .008 - .010 of clearance between your gears. You will need a dial guage on a magetic base to check this. You then adjust by moving shims from one side to the other. The total thickness of the shims needs to stay the same. To space the ring gear further away you will need to remove a shim or shims from the drivers side to the passenger side. If you have factory thick shims you will need a shim kit to get the backlash right. You should then check your gear mesh to make sure it is still right. Use some gear marking compound on about 5 teeth and rotate it both ways under pressure. You need to have a pattern that is the same length in the top of the tooth as the bottom of the tooth. Here is a diagram for reference.


One other quick note. Your carrier caps need to stay on the side they were removed from, since they are machined after being installed. Mark them before you remove them or they may get mixed up.

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Last edited by EFI70Blazer; 06-24-2007 at 12:06 AM.
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Old 06-25-2007, 03:27 AM   #27
VDOG
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Re: Rear End Destruction.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EFI70Blazer View Post
You may need to adjust your backlash. Idealy you want to have .008 - .010 of clearance between your gears. You will need a dial guage on a magetic base to check this. You then adjust by moving shims from one side to the other. One other quick note. Your carrier caps need to stay on the side they were removed from, since they are machined after being installed. Mark them before you remove them or they may get mixed up.
Thanks for the info, I gave up today. It will be with a professional by Wednesday. Classic Trucks Magazine August issue has an article on how to take out and rebuild your 12 bolt truck rearend. A little late for me, might help someone else.
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Old 06-25-2007, 07:36 AM   #28
Shock_Me
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Re: Rear End Destruction.

Man, that same thing just happened to me yesterday! I broke the same bolt that holds the pin in the carrier.
This is what I did:
1. get a new welding rod installed into your whip,
2. with the welder turned off, put the tip of the rod into the hole on the carrier where the bolt broke off, and hold it on the broken bolt as close to the center as possible,
3. put the groud clamp somewhere on the carrier,
4. have a buddy turn the welder on for a second to arc the rod just enough so it sticks to the broken bolt,
5. release the welding rod from the whip, and unthread it with your fingers.

It actually worked!
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Old 06-25-2007, 12:22 PM   #29
VDOG
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Re: Rear End Destruction.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shock_Me View Post
Man, that same thing just happened to me yesterday! I broke the same bolt that holds the pin in the carrier.
This is what I did:
1. get a new welding rod installed into your whip,
2. with the welder turned off, put the tip of the rod into the hole on the carrier where the bolt broke off, and hold it on the broken bolt as close to the center as possible,
3. put the groud clamp somewhere on the carrier,
4. have a buddy turn the welder on for a second to arc the rod just enough so it sticks to the broken bolt,
5. release the welding rod from the whip, and unthread it with your fingers.

It actually worked!
Im going to have to remember that for the next time it happens.
Which I hope I never have to do again.
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