Project Vitamin C-10

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Now your just showing off.

Nahh

Originally Posted by flips72

way to much free time

I wish,

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

You got that much cam to shake apart your take float thingie?

Now I feel like I am in one of those old Marine C123 death traps.

Yeeeeeeeeeah, that's the reason.

I remember crawling into the tail section of the F-4 and getting hung on every piece of safety wire. Oh the memories.

Originally Posted by 4dranch

Nice job Alan,
Brings back memories of working on the tail rotors on Blackhawks.

Thanks David,

[padresag]

Alan; you did make some A pillar gutters did you not. I can remember you doing some. did you use them as 198 said that you didn't. easier to ask then go back through he thread
ron

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by padresag

Alan; you did make some A pillar gutters did you not. I can remember you doing some. did you use them as 198 said that you didn't. easier to ask then go back through he thread
ron

Yes i did make one.





It turned out pretty good. i never installed it. That's about the time 198 decided to buy his own shop and do it himself.
The pics are in his build. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=955

BTW Ron, I believe you told me before about a product to use on wood to remove water stains. If that is true can you tell me again. I'll do another thread search to seee if I can find it.

EDIT: found it,Here

oxalic acid more than likely would have removed those stains

[padresag]

you didn't even give me chance to respond. if you do use the oxalic acid, neutralize it with acetic acid(vinegar) and the rinse with clear water; preferably distilled as a lot of water has iron in it and can stain it with small spots esp oaks
ron

[chad64chevy]

alan any updates?? i havent done anything but order some more parts! i win on ebay some straight painted front and rear bumpers with all brackets and the splash guards for $185, i dont think that was bad! im making my gas filler plate today too, its like yours but a lil higher up on the side and upside down with a flash mount cap if that makes sense to you!! ill get some pictures later or tomorrow when i'm done making it! anyways looking good, i know you should be just about done by now!!

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by padresag

you didn't even give me chance to respond. if you do use the oxalic acid, neutralize it with acetic acid(vinegar) and the rinse with clear water; preferably distilled as a lot of water has iron in it and can stain it with small spots esp oaks
ron

sorry. I was able to sand out the stains with 180.

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

alan any updates?? i havent done anything but order some more parts! i win on ebay some straight painted front and rear bumpers with all brackets and the splash guards for $185, i dont think that was bad! im making my gas filler plate today too, its like yours but a lil higher up on the side and upside down with a flash mount cap if that makes sense to you!! ill get some pictures later or tomorrow when i'm done making it! anyways looking good, i know you should be just about done by now!!

I wish I could hae put mine up higher, but the side trim was in the way.

I got the bed wood sanded down today. I also included pic of the fuel filler hose and vent. I need one more plug for the tank and I can cross the fuel system off the list. The filler hose looks like it is slanted awya from the tank, but it's an opticall illusion. It is actually level. I wish it was slanted to the tank.

[scotts62]

Sweet!!!

[Strodder]

Allan, I'm not sure if that's a good idea having the vent hose going below like that. When full it might syphon the gas out. I would install it above the filler hose. Just a thought. What do ya think?

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Allan, I'm not sure if that's a good idea having the vent hose going below like that. When full it might syphon the gas out. I would install it above the filler hose. Just a thought. What do ya think?

I thought about that, but the vent runs all the way up to the filler neck under the cap. I'm thinking that should work. Am I wrong?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Strodder]

I didn't know it went up the tube. It should be OK then. Just looking out for ya.

[shrunken66stroker]

Is the urethane clear specifically for wood? Does it soak in or lay on top so you can you cut and buff? I think I've read where someone painted and cleared the wood and then cut and buffed it. Or maybe I made it up, I'm not sure.

[Strodder]

I would think the more coats the better so you won't have the cut and buff. But I'm just guessing.

[daverod]

A lot of guessin and makin up stuff going on.

[56taskforce]

Hey Alan I was just catching up on your build thread looking good as usual.
BTW I noticed that you have worked on F-4s I was in the last Phantom squadron in the Marine Corps (VMFP-3) was there to launch out the very last one bound for China Lake.

[Palf70Step]

I rode in a F4 from Korea. The Navy came tried (came close but no cigar) to make the Air Force guy in the back seat toss all his kinshi.

Truck is looking good Alan.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker

Is the urethane clear specifically for wood? Does it soak in or lay on top so you can you cut and buff? I think I've read where someone painted and cleared the wood and then cut and buffed it. Or maybe I made it up, I'm not sure.

It is a Minwax product for outdoor use. The first coat soaked in quite a bit. I went ahead and did back-to-back coats for a total of three coats on the first round. I also beveled every sharp edge a little so i wouldn't have a sharp edge for the urethane to start pealing.

I believe I read that as well. A guy at work tried automotive clear and water wicked up on the ends and stained the wood. I wasn't there during the complete process. He also stated the air in the wood created air bubbles the first time he put it on. I decided to use a product for wood, because I don't want to redo it anytime soon.

Originally Posted by Strodder

I would think the more coats the better so you won't have the cut and buff. But I'm just guessing.

After the first 3 coats and 2 more today after sanding with 180 to level it out, i have already used a quart and that is just on the top.

Originally Posted by daverod

A lot of guessin and makin up stuff going on.

What's wrong with that.

Originally Posted by 198plus

Alan I'm ready to come pic my wood back up from ya............

Not yet it ain't ready yet.

Originally Posted by 56taskforce

Hey Alan I was just catching up on your build thread looking good as usual.
BTW I noticed that you have worked on F-4s I was in the last Phantom squadron in the Marine Corps (VMFP-3) was there to launch out the very last one bound for China Lake.

That's awesome, working on those things were something else. I was assigned to AR Aero Repair. We did flight control riging, landing gear, canopy rigging, and throttle cables.

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

I rode in a F4 from Korea. The Navy came tried (came close but no cigar) to make the Air Force guy in the back seat toss all his kinshi.

Truck is looking good Alan.

Thanks Bill. I road in a F4 over Korea. that was on of the most memorable times in my life.

Like I mentioned before I sanded the top sides and put on 2 more coats witha brush and that is the end of one quart. Once I get it slick, I will spray the last coat I think.

[56taskforce]

That's awesome, working on those things were something else. I was assigned to AR Aero Repair. We did flight control riging, landing gear, canopy rigging, and throttle cables.

Thanks Bill. I road in a F4 over Korea. that was on of the most memorable times in my life.

Right on I was a hydraulics technician. VMFP-3 was a reconnaissance squadron with 36 aircraft that’s a lot of Phantoms to maintain, a normal squadron has 12 aircraft. There is non other like the F-4 I love that plane in fact here on my desk sits a complete warning light panel from the cockpit of one of our birds along with multiple models adorned in the many paint schemes P-3 had over the years.

[shrunken66stroker]

Thanks, Alan. It looks great.

[Fleet '66]

Finally subscribed. I haven't read the whole thread...just bits and pieces over time. I will go back and read it all when i get time.... Nice work Alan!!

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker

Thanks, Alan. It looks great.

Originally Posted by Fleet '66

Finally subscribed. I haven't read the whole thread...just bits and pieces over time. I will go back and read it all when i get time.... Nice work Alan!!

Thanks and thanks for subscribing!!

On to something different, I'm tired of playing with my wood.

I am using a measuring sheet that I linked a while back that collects data for a drive shaft. Drive line Guru's make sure I'm doing this right.

I measured it with it on the ground. I used a framing square on both the trans and rearend. The square was up against the tail housing and the other square was against the leading edge of the yoke. I then marked the floor at both locations with tape and a pen mark and measured. I came up with 61", remember my engine is in the front holes. I raised it up and measured again for curiousity and it was 62"

[Strodder]

You know the best way is to ask the guy that's building the drive shaft. Measure exactly the way he says to do it. If you measure it and it comes out wrong, he can't say I made it to YOUR spects. Just a tip. I had many made, and that's how I do it. I don't like to pay twice.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

[COLOR="Blue"]...On to something different, I'm tired of playing with my wood. ...

I did not know that was possible...
Can't believe that Dennis did not comment on that one...


Anyway, The way you measured it, the driveshaft would have to be level from the trans to the rearend yoke. If it runs uphill or downhill, then it would be longer. The best way I know is how Dennis described. I would also check with it on the ground, measure from your tail housing directly to the flat of the yoke with a tape measure. Tell the shop that you measured from the housing to the yoke flange. The yoke flange is typically the center of the U-joint.

Looking good anyway...

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Strodder

You know the best way is to ask the guy that's building the drive shaft. Measure exactly the way he says to do it. If you measure it and it comes out wrong, he can't say I made it to YOUR spects. Just a tip. I had many made, and that's how I do it. I don't like to pay twice.

Thanks Dennis, I meant to call them (drive line people) today. But my bed wood drove me crazy today. I usally do a good job with spraying urethane. I had lots of issues today. I was in hopes of bringing the wood home today.

Originally Posted by 56taskforce

Right on I was a hydraulics technician. VMFP-3 was a reconnaissance squadron with 36 aircraft that’s a lot of Phantoms to maintain, a normal squadron has 12 aircraft. There is non other like the F-4 I love that plane in fact here on my desk sits a complete warning light panel from the cockpit of one of our birds along with multiple models adorned in the many paint schemes P-3 had over the years.

It's one of my favorites..............to look at. They are cool.

Originally Posted by aggie91

I did not know that was possible...
Can't believe that Dennis did not comment on that one...


Anyway, The way you measured it, the driveshaft would have to be level from the trans to the rearend yoke. If it runs uphill or downhill, then it would be longer. The best way I know is how Dennis described. I would also check with it on the ground, measure from your tail housing directly to the flat of the yoke with a tape measure. Tell the shop that you measured from the housing to the yoke flange. The yoke flange is typically the center of the U-joint.

Looking good anyway...

Dennis must have just overlooked that comment. I figured he would be the first to pounce.

Thanks for the correction, and I agree with you. An angle will increase lenght. i should know that since I measure frames and unibodies.

As mentioned before i had a hell of a time today with the wood. I have used orbital sanders before on wood with any problems. The can said use 220 and I did so after first trying to cut it with 320. After I sprayed the first coat and let it flash off I could see the sanding marks plus it was dieing back some. I thought another coat would fix it. So another trip to the store for a 3rd can. After it tacked most boards were looking better while others didn't. Fish eyes were on the boards that were looking better plus tons of dust. I sprayed in the shop with the doors closed. So I went with another coat and just put them out in the sun at this point knowing i will be sanding them back down. Out in the sun they looking great. After a couple hours I brought them back in and the flourescent lights just show everything. My goal is for them to be slick and shinny. I hope to get there soon. Here is a pick of them outside. I tried to get the defects to show up, but they didn't.

I also test fitted the LED tail lights with new bezels. They are not wired yet.

[198plus]

Looking good Alan..........

[Strodder]

Dennis must have just overlooked that comment. I figured he would be the first to pounce.


I saw the comment, sometimes I just keep my mouth shut. And stay out of trouble. I do like you wood though.