What engine oil for a 250 I6 rebuild??

[mvfd70]

I'm getting ready to rebuild the 250 I6 for my truck. Right now it's stripped down bare. I need to get it to the machine shop to hot tank it.

My question is, what would be the best type of oil to put in it when i get it built? It most likely wont run much for a while after it's reassembled. I would like to get it put back together though so I can get some of the parts out of my way. Also, so I don't lose anything important. Is there anything different I need to do or add to it so it will sit on the motor stand and not get ruined?

[Brad]

After you break it in with a conventional oil, I'd check into this. Sounds like it'll be coming out by October. But is just the ticket for many of us.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=7032644

['68OrangeSunshine]

Here's the old school doctrine:
First 500 miles with Non-Detergent (and organic) SAE 30 weight. Change oil and filter to wash out any metal filings and junk from the oil passages. The Non Detergent helps break in the cam and lifters. A small bottle of GM EOS [Engine Oil Supplement] is highly recommended for the first phase too. After break-in your next oil change should be Detergent 30 weight. I like Valvoline. Change interval should be about 2,000 ~ 2,500 miles.
Some guys like to flush their L6s out after the first 2 hours or 100 miles -- to clear any FOD from the system. I'm one of them.
For a normal oil I like Valvoline SAE 30 in my 292. I tried 20W-50 for a while [and on the last L6 because it's sometimes cheaper and it leaked and burned oil] but went back to 30 weight because I like the sound and response of the single grade oil.

[lilred67]

i hope you have better luck than me on finding some gm EOS. all the dealers around here are out and the parts man said gm is not making it any more....wtf

[Shyguy]

One point that may have not been coveredd by the other guys was if the engine is left for a while on a stand without being ran.

Any motor I am going to leave for quite while I pull the plugs and put about a tablespoon of oil in the cylingers, turn it over by hand and then put the plugs back in. This way the cylinder walls are coated and the rings won't stick.

The only problems is when you start it the first time it will smoke like heck for a few seconds.

Danny- Southeast Missouri

[alschevy]

i used Kendall SAE 40 or 50 oil. but if you are racing used kendall 70 sae


1967 chevy one ton wrecker truck

[mvfd70]

Originally Posted by Shyguy

One point that may have not been coveredd by the other guys was if the engine is left for a while on a stand without being ran.

Any motor I am going to leave for quite while I pull the plugs and put about a tablespoon of oil in the cylingers, turn it over by hand and then put the plugs back in. This way the cylinder walls are coated and the rings won't stick.

The only problems is when you start it the first time it will smoke like heck for a few seconds.

Danny- Southeast Missouri

That's what I need. I'm getting ready to build it to get it out of the way. The truck won't be drivable for quite some time. I just wasn't sure what I needed to do since it'll be a fresh rebuild and then sitting for a while. I could put it on the frame and run it for a while if I need to then pull it back off but if I can build it and let it sit that'd be ok too. Any other opinions?

[mvfd70]

ttt

[BCOWANWHEELS]

non detergent 30 wght. change it at 500 miles max. 250 is even better. keep it clean on assembly a must. make sure you have head checked for cracks. there notorious for cracking especiall the back 2 cylinders , also the back 2 will be worn the worst cauz they run the hottest. i run a 160 thermostat with a 3 core rad. does perfect never goes over 180 even loaded or towing heavy. hi-volume oil pump is a plus too.