Replacing clutch in a 3-speed, 230 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

MXmaniac · 12-23-2007, 11:44 AM

I pulled the transmission yesterday, but it sure seems like there has to be an easier way. The crossmember under the tranny appears to be riveted on, so I had to separate the transmission and bellhousing. I had to loosen the bellhousing to get to the bolts for the tranny, then unbolt the tranny, wrestle the tranny out, and then wrestle the bellhousing out. There is no room for everything to come out as one unit, between the crossmember and the floorboards. I guess the fact that the I6 is pretty long might make space cramped. It was a lot of work just to get a transmission out, is that just how it goes or is there an easier way to get it all out?

rwgregory · 12-23-2007, 07:49 PM

Yes, that's about what is required. Just be thankfull you don't have a 4-speed. When replacing the clutch on my old '65 GMC w/305 V-6 & 4-spd. the trans. had to come out thru the floor of the interior!! At least you could do your job from under the truck; thank God for small favors...

MXmaniac · 12-24-2007, 06:22 PM

Oh man I'm glad it didn't have to come through the floor. Not that I have much of an interior right now(or floor for that matter). I got it all put back together today. Re-assembly was quite a bit easier than disassembly, because I cleaned 44 years worth of crud of everything before I put it back together.

**MikeN** · 12-26-2007, 08:58 AM

I am currently swapping a heavy duty Muncie 3-speed into my 64 C10 to replace the little crackerjack Saginaw 3-speed that came with the truck from the factory. I got sick of dealing with the problem you describe, so I drilled out the rivets holding that e-brake crossmember in place, and replaced them with bolts/lockwashers/nuts. It was much easier than I thought it would be. I drilled out all four rivets and had the crossmember out of the way in about 45 minutes, and now the crossmemeber can be easily bolted in and out for future maintenance. I lifted the tranny straight up into place with no drama.

Here's the procedure...knock a divot into the rivet head with a hammer and punch to get your drill bit bit started. Drill all the way through the rivet with a small bit, something like 1/8". This is the hardest part, it will take several minutes to drill all the way through. Then go through the hole with 3 progressively larger bits until you have completely removed the shank of the rivet. Finally, knock the rivet head off with a hammer and chisel, this only takes about three blows. Four Grade-8 bolts with washers and nuts from Lowes, and you are good to go. It was way easier than I thought. Next time I'm under the truck, I'm going to do the same with the rivets holding the bellhousing crossmember, to ease future clutch/pressure plate/flywheel repairs.

12-23-2007, 11:44 AM	#1
MXmaniac Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Denton, Texas Posts: 356	Replacing clutch in a 3-speed, 230 I pulled the transmission yesterday, but it sure seems like there has to be an easier way. The crossmember under the tranny appears to be riveted on, so I had to separate the transmission and bellhousing. I had to loosen the bellhousing to get to the bolts for the tranny, then unbolt the tranny, wrestle the tranny out, and then wrestle the bellhousing out. There is no room for everything to come out as one unit, between the crossmember and the floorboards. I guess the fact that the I6 is pretty long might make space cramped. It was a lot of work just to get a transmission out, is that just how it goes or is there an easier way to get it all out? __________________ Andrew '69 C-20(292, 4-speed) Retired Daily Driver '64 C-10(250, 3-speed) Fixerupper '97 Frd Mustang GT(4.6L, 5-speed) Daily Driver If I only wanted two pedals I'd have bought a bicycle. Last edited by MXmaniac; 12-23-2007 at 11:45 AM.*

12-23-2007, 07:49 PM	#2
rwgregory Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Chula Vista, California Posts: 495	Re: Replacing clutch in a 3-speed, 230 Yes, that's about what is required. Just be thankfull you don't have a 4-speed. When replacing the clutch on my old '65 GMC w/305 V-6 & 4-spd. the trans. had to come out thru the floor of the interior!! At least you could do your job from under the truck; thank God for small favors... __________________ rwgregory 67 GMC 2500 ,2w/d wide box 305 V-6, 4-speed

12-24-2007, 06:22 PM	#3
MXmaniac Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Denton, Texas Posts: 356	Re: Replacing clutch in a 3-speed, 230 Oh man I'm glad it didn't have to come through the floor. Not that I have much of an interior right now(or floor for that matter). I got it all put back together today. Re-assembly was quite a bit easier than disassembly, because I cleaned 44 years worth of crud of everything before I put it back together. __________________ Andrew '69 C-20(292, 4-speed) Retired Daily Driver '64 C-10(250, 3-speed) Fixerupper '97 F*rd Mustang GT(4.6L, 5-speed) Daily Driver If I only wanted two pedals I'd have bought a bicycle.

12-26-2007, 08:58 AM	#4
MikeN Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Marietta, GA Posts: 782	Re: Replacing clutch in a 3-speed, 230 I am currently swapping a heavy duty Muncie 3-speed into my 64 C10 to replace the little crackerjack Saginaw 3-speed that came with the truck from the factory. I got sick of dealing with the problem you describe, so I drilled out the rivets holding that e-brake crossmember in place, and replaced them with bolts/lockwashers/nuts. It was much easier than I thought it would be. I drilled out all four rivets and had the crossmember out of the way in about 45 minutes, and now the crossmemeber can be easily bolted in and out for future maintenance. I lifted the tranny straight up into place with no drama. Here's the procedure...knock a divot into the rivet head with a hammer and punch to get your drill bit bit started. Drill all the way through the rivet with a small bit, something like 1/8". This is the hardest part, it will take several minutes to drill all the way through. Then go through the hole with 3 progressively larger bits until you have completely removed the shank of the rivet. Finally, knock the rivet head off with a hammer and chisel, this only takes about three blows. Four Grade-8 bolts with washers and nuts from Lowes, and you are good to go. It was way easier than I thought. Next time I'm under the truck, I'm going to do the same with the rivets holding the bellhousing crossmember, to ease future clutch/pressure plate/flywheel repairs.



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