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#1 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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primer and bodywork?
okay, i'm needing some body work done to my truck including getting this thing fixed. i'm wanting to have my truck completely stripped on the outside down to bare metal and primered. the primer would need to last for awhile(a year or so) and also have some things shaved(mirrors, drip rails, rear cargo lamp) and a rear rollpan welded in and smooted.
Last edited by ocbaud; 01-15-2003 at 08:20 PM. |
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#2 |
BeWarE tHe eViL CrAnkTOe!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Yukon, OK
Posts: 3,605
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We can call you G Jr. heheheeh
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~Dave~ You can call me Mike, Mike Oxlong - 1986 Chevy SWB - Stock for now - 1986 Chevy Custom SWB *Stolen 6/26/05* - 1985 Chevy SWB SOLD - 1999 T/A Some mods ![]() www.cardomain.com/id/ramairdave AIM Screenname - Jester84 |
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#3 |
yeller
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13,826
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where is the question? "primer and bodywork?" is the topic...
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#4 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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HOW MUCH SHOULD IT COST
![]() sorry, forgot to add that in |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 28
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Oooh, how'd that happen?
Uh, if you do it yourself, cost of sandpaper, rattlecan primer, masking tape, and newpaper. I did it, about $50. Bodywork will be more depending on what you need(bondo). |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 4,703
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How did you get "that thing" a.k.a. "tha skraip!"
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* AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION * |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,680
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I suggest you check with the guys in the Paint and Body section. They can tell you exactly what you need and give you a good primer to use. Some are better than others. I sprayed my tailgate about 2 months ago and it's not lasting well.
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Scott Shelbourne |
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#8 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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i posted in that forum first, no reply yet
![]() my friend primered his 56' at votech with auto primer or some sort and it has lots of surface rust after a year, and my other friend primered his 72' with rattle cans, and it hasnt rusted at all after half a year or a little more. i put that beauty mark in the truck by hitting a large concrete barrier at tinker AFB ![]() i had to park, and the thing was right behind the only parking spot, so when i go to backout and leave, my fender barely clips the little metal hook thing sticking out of the block. the funny thing is, i did it when i was picking up my girlfriend for our 2nd date back last may:p it was kinda embarrassing |
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#9 |
yeller
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13,826
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Eric, know you have your mind set on shaving and priming your truck...but I honestly wouldn't do it yet...wait till you have the money and do it all at once rather than twice or more.
Your truck looks bad ass the way it looks and sits!! -Jeff |
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#10 | |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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Quote:
the only things i REALLY want shaved are the cargo lamp, mirrors, and rain gutters |
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#11 |
Ultimate Diesel Dude
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Southwest Missouri
Posts: 328
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Are wanting to have the work done by a body shop? If so, costs vary greatly from shop to shop.
When I had my truck painted, I removed most of the trim, bumpers, door panels, accessories, etc. off myself, saving some labor. The shop fixed all dents and rust. The total bill was $2600. That included two-tone clear-coat paint. Paint is expensive. I would think the primer would not be. I'd just take it to some shops and get some quotes. If you're wanting to do it yourself, it won't cost much at all. Just time. But it also takes some skill. I tried it, and found out I don't have the skills or the patience to do body work.
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Project truck: '81 C/20 converted to 6.2L TURBO DIESEL bored .040", gear drive, 6.5L injectors/pump, custom pistons, custom 4" exhaust, 700R4, 4.10's Daily Driver: '95 K1500 Tahoe, 6.5L TURBO DIESEL, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's |
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#12 |
yeller
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13,826
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keep in mind primer absorbs water...if you rattle can primer over bare metal it will rust. To do it the correct way you should prime it AND seal it. Not only that, if you do rattle can it you will have to remove all of it before you PAINT the truck the final color...spray bomb paint does not make a good base coat.
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#13 |
I'm back with 2nd truck!
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,775
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POR-15 it.
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1979 Chevrolet Bonanza Big10 "Tootsie Roll" 1985 Chevrolet Silverado (wife's) Member of the Southern Bowties Club "Don't underestimate how sexy a fat man who drinks to excess can be." Homer Simpson |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,964
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Primers will absorb water/moisture over time & that is not good for sheetmetal. My advice is to strip only what absolutely needs to be stripped to allow mods & such. The rest should be left alone until you can do it all @ once. Start buying little things now like tape, paper, reducers, tack cloths to help defray costs when buying paints/primers. When it comes to paint jobs, you usually get what you pay for.... so spend the extra to do it right & don't have regrets. An engineer I work with just had his sons Fiero repainted the factory solid black. W/O shooting the jambs, but removing the glass, & front/rear bumper caps(to paint separate), he spent about 2700$ & it is a nice job IMO. Another guy had his 66 stang done @ a local shop for only 1100$(runs included) & it's flaking off/rusting bumper to bumper after only 1 year.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: edmond, ok
Posts: 1,058
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Eric painting supplies are EXPENSIVE! There is no way around that. If you take it to metal you will need to spay etching primer. On top of that you will need a urethane primer. The urethane primer will set up hard pretty much like paint. When you get ready to paint it that stuff will need to come off and you'll have to pretty much do it all again. Modern primers are NOT cheap. Lacquer (sp) primers are cheaper but absorb moisture like a sponge. You don't want that on bare metal. I think your truck looks really good like it is. My advice is to wait till you can get it all done or only do the little spots you want done.
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,680
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My advice is to do as most are saying and keep your truck as is. I would love to have your paint job!
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Scott Shelbourne |
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#17 |
been here longer than Liz
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 2,437
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'sup lil G?
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~Greg~ Mac's Garage '87 SWB 6/8 drop "Piso" '08 CCSB Silverado DD the departed '89 GMC K5 Jimmy 4x4 "Rusty Nuts" '77 Chevy K5 Blazer 2wd '83 Chevy stepside "You get what you pay for" - Mike 'swervin ervin' Ervin |
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#18 |
BeWarE tHe eViL CrAnkTOe!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Yukon, OK
Posts: 3,605
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LMAO!!!
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~Dave~ You can call me Mike, Mike Oxlong - 1986 Chevy SWB - Stock for now - 1986 Chevy Custom SWB *Stolen 6/26/05* - 1985 Chevy SWB SOLD - 1999 T/A Some mods ![]() www.cardomain.com/id/ramairdave AIM Screenname - Jester84 |
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#19 |
yeller
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13,826
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G jr.
![]() jr. G badder bow o'chemist |
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#20 |
been here longer than Liz
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 2,437
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lmao - o'chemist, the Irish G
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~Greg~ Mac's Garage '87 SWB 6/8 drop "Piso" '08 CCSB Silverado DD the departed '89 GMC K5 Jimmy 4x4 "Rusty Nuts" '77 Chevy K5 Blazer 2wd '83 Chevy stepside "You get what you pay for" - Mike 'swervin ervin' Ervin |
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#21 |
BeWarE tHe eViL CrAnkTOe!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Yukon, OK
Posts: 3,605
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*Goat refrence* BA-A-A-A-A-A-A-D BOW!!!
__________________
~Dave~ You can call me Mike, Mike Oxlong - 1986 Chevy SWB - Stock for now - 1986 Chevy Custom SWB *Stolen 6/26/05* - 1985 Chevy SWB SOLD - 1999 T/A Some mods ![]() www.cardomain.com/id/ramairdave AIM Screenname - Jester84 |
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#22 |
been here longer than Liz
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 2,437
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Where the hell did you find a goat reference? Quit fantasizing at work Dave!
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~Greg~ Mac's Garage '87 SWB 6/8 drop "Piso" '08 CCSB Silverado DD the departed '89 GMC K5 Jimmy 4x4 "Rusty Nuts" '77 Chevy K5 Blazer 2wd '83 Chevy stepside "You get what you pay for" - Mike 'swervin ervin' Ervin |
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#23 | |
I'm back with 2nd truck!
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,775
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Quote:
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1979 Chevrolet Bonanza Big10 "Tootsie Roll" 1985 Chevrolet Silverado (wife's) Member of the Southern Bowties Club "Don't underestimate how sexy a fat man who drinks to excess can be." Homer Simpson |
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#24 |
been here longer than Liz
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Posts: 2,437
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That's where specifics come into play. I said 'at work', not 'working'!
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~Greg~ Mac's Garage '87 SWB 6/8 drop "Piso" '08 CCSB Silverado DD the departed '89 GMC K5 Jimmy 4x4 "Rusty Nuts" '77 Chevy K5 Blazer 2wd '83 Chevy stepside "You get what you pay for" - Mike 'swervin ervin' Ervin |
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#25 |
I'm back with 2nd truck!
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,775
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DOH!!! So true.
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1979 Chevrolet Bonanza Big10 "Tootsie Roll" 1985 Chevrolet Silverado (wife's) Member of the Southern Bowties Club "Don't underestimate how sexy a fat man who drinks to excess can be." Homer Simpson |
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