Some frame treatment questions

[shifty]

Couple of questions:

Frame is going off for sandblasting and powdercoat in the next 7-14 days.

It's a '68 SWB. Some of the features, if it matters:

* Bagged using Suicide Doors plates up front + RE7's
* CPP bolt-in notch (bolted in, not welded)
* ECE super panhard bar kit
* ECE spring relocation kit
* ECE extreme drop crossmember + stock control arms
* CPP tubular tranny xmember
* 77-78 suspension: 5-lug, disc/drum, front crossmember + arms + steering
* LS1 + T56 for the drivetrain

On to the questions:

1) The notch: Is it safe to notch the rear, smooth out the cut portion, then take it in for powdercoat without the notch installed, or is this too risky? I'm concerned that the frame may bend at the notch, its weakest point. Should I powdercoat, then notch the powdercoated frame and treat the cut portion with rust preventative instead?

2) The crossmembers: I have no current tranny crossmember, no trailing arm (rear) crossmember, no cross brace (tiny frame brace above rear gas tank), and I want to powdercoat w/o front suspension crossmember installed. Is it risky to deliver the frame for powder without all of these crossmembers bolted in? I'm concerned that not having enough crossmembers could result in the frame getting out of true.

I just need to make plans accordingly. Obviously, major concerns here are getting a bent or out-of-true powdercoated frame back that I can't use. This is the first time I'm doing a veritable frame-off, so sorry for the n00by questions.

[Slmd92DIME]

I have never had anything powercoated but if it were me I would have everything ready. THe crossmembers and anything else already on the frame. If not when you go to install them and you drill holes or weld to the already coated frame it is goign to cause a spots for rust and the powdercoat to flake off.

[PipsC10]

I took my frame to the powder coaters with the front cross member, tranny crossmember, trailing arm crossmember removed. The frame was pretty flexable with all the crossmembers gone. I had the same worry as you with the c-notch, so I chose to cut the notch in later. I'm using the ART rear system and from what I can see, the notch will cover any cutting I am doing to frame after it was powder coated. I have re-installed the front cross member which was also coated seperately, and the tranny cross member with no problems at all. The frame is still as straight as it ever was.

Just a side note, I went with the color "Jet Black" which is a satin finish. All of my ART parts and my tranny crossmember from ECE are an exact match.

[Shane]

Don't move that frame around too much after you cut it if you don't have your notch bolted in ... it WILL flex. I would powder coat first then tape off your cut marks with a couple layers of masking tape (2" 3M blue) and then cut thru the tape. An old timer told me about this trick when drilling and sawing thru freshly painted sheetmetal and has always worked great for me.

Can't say on the other x-members being out.

[jlaird]

I just had mine powdercoated. All bolt on crossmembers should be disassembled. The coaters should have instructed you to do so. You want to bring in a bare frame. You don't want areas not covered with powder.

Concerning your notch question, I would have the frame coated and cut for your c-notch after. This way you get powder on the frame under the notch AND no worries about frame bending.

[shifty]

Thanks for the tips, guys, sounds like you're reaffirming my gut feelings.

[N2TRUX]

Why don't you weld the notch in? I have never felt comfortable about a bolt in notch.

[shifty]

I thought about it, but I've never been comfortable with my ability to weld a good bead. I have a Lincoln 175HD here that's rearin' and ready to go, but I have no real experience with a welder doing major stuff like welding on a frame, so ... I am somewhat anxious to go from "0 to 60" overnight by welding notches into my frame.

[C10-Driver]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Why don't you weld the notch in?

I bolted the notch into my frame, welded along all the edges, removed the bolts, welded the holes shut, cleaned them up with a grinder and had the finished assembly coated. Once it was finished, you could hardly tell the frame was modified.

[jlaird]

maybe you can bolt it in and find somebody to weld it for you. It's a quick welding job.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jlaird

maybe you can bolt it in and find somebody to weld it for you. It's a quick welding job.

This is what I would suggest as well. Cut the frame & bolt-in the c-notch. Then carry the frame to a certified welder if your not comfortable w/your skill level.

Or . . .... Since it's actually a bolt in, now would be a great time to improve those skills. Get some scrap metal that's the same thickness & practice doing butt-welds & overlapping-joint welds until your beads look good. Once you get the hang of your unit, switch to the piece cut from the frame. Practice welding a piece of scrap metal that's the same thickness as the bolt-in c-notch (my frame & c-notch were different) to the piece you removed from your frame. This allows you to practice getting your settings for wire-speed & heat pretty close before you start on the actual frame.

You'll never improve your skill level w/o practice. Make sure everything is clean & do it yourself...... the reward is priceless.

[N2TRUX]

I agree with all of the above. If you don't feel confident with your skills, then give a shout out for someone in your area. As much as you give to this forum there should be someone nearby that would come weld your notch up.

I would offer to do it myself, but your bugger welds are probably better than mine.....

[PipsC10]

now you guys have me nervous. I already had my frame powder coated and planned on installing the ART bolt in c-notch. Should I be worried about the notch cracking or not being strong enough?

[N2TRUX]

It should be just fine bolted in if it's already done. My thoughts are that I would prefer it welded in just to eliminate any slight chance that it could cause problems.

[LUCKIN-FOU]

Shifty I've never been a fan of the bolt in Notch. Shane is right on the masking tape it works on the the spots were you plan to drill. I've done this a couple of times take out all the crossmembers because you want the frame as clean a possible. Drill all your holes put the frame on the ground. Make a couple of small saw horses, to fit the front and rear kick ups. This way when it goes on the trailer to the powder coater Its not going to flex. The middle of the frame is on the trailer and the ends are held up by your horses. Hell you have a welder burn in that C-notch don't be scared that is why they make grinders.. Trust me it can be fixed.

[shifty]

Oh, I'm not scared...I just reckon it's not gonna look as purty as some of the TIG welds I've seen you lay out, Lou.

I'll probably end up giving it a shot. I finished the teardown on the ~77-78 xmember and front end I'm swapping into this thing tonight, so I figure I'll tear down the rest and try to get it notched this weekend.

[gringoloco]

Don't be scared! Just get your heat/speed settings set to the welder's specs and burn it in. That should actually be a pretty easy weld. Concentrate your heat on the frame, then draw the notch plate in as it pools. Leave the bolts in it and just do stitches instead of a full seam around it. Check out the way Rokcrln did his install here. I agree with Scoti- practice a little on scrap first...

[C10-Driver]

I'm certainly no expert but be careful about heating up any specific area too much. I had a guy weld my frame for me and he ended up warping it slightly. He heated up the sides of the frame too much and, as it cooled, it twisted the top of the frame rail upwards a little... Nothing a dead blow sledge hammer couldn't fix but still a PITA. Take your time... small welds and move from side to side allowing things to cool down as you go.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Check out the way Rokcrln did his install here.

TY, I have both parts I believe and was curious about the fitment