Drop spindles + 15" wheels

[shifty]

Quickie, since nobody in the 67-72 forum was able to really answer -

I've heard of clearance issues on certain brands of spindles while running 15" wheels, and the spindles had to be ground down to work. Someone in another thread suggested that this is just a matter of geometry, and can't be avoided. I'm not sure what to think.

I figure if anyone knows, you guys would.

If it is a matter of geometry, is there a certain amount of drop that will absolutely result in rubbing and, thus, grinding parts of the spindle down? Like, maybe 2" won't rub, but 2.5" will?

If any of you 73-87 guys have bagged your trucks with dropped spindles and wheels that are 15" or maybe 16", what brand of spindle did you use, and how many inches were they dropped?

[BeerMonkeY]

i ran a 3" DJM spindle with 15's on my burb, i had to grind down the caliper a very little bit to make them fit.

[Shane]

it's not usually the spindle that has to be ground, it's the brake caliper OR the end of the lower control arm ... but each spindle may be cast differently

as answered in the original post, any time you mix dropped suspension components, small diameter wheels and insufficient back spacing you're gonna have interference troubles ... regardless of manufacturer

[shifty]

I'm looking at stock wheels, myself. I believe they're 15", but possibly could be 16". I'll need to measure when I get home.

I was just a bit leery to order a dropped spindle, although that's something I wanted to put in now to prevent disassembly and reinstall later.

It might sound lame, I know .. I just like stuff to "fit", I guess.

[70c10]

shifty- I run 15" rims with 3.75"b.s and McGaughey's drop spindles. I had to buzz the top of the spindle for turning radius and the backside of the bottom to clear my static balanced weights. It takes a few seconds to tap them with a grinder. 16" should clear wheel weights but the tops of McGaugheys spindles have a raised pad that needs to be grinded in the shape of an arc. Again, only takes a few minutes to do. Hope this helps!

[shifty]

Do they forwarn people about this when you buy them?

If not, any idea why a company would make a part that required to be ground down when used with the stock sized wheels?

[MotorHead Lon]

I have BellTech 2.5" dropped spindles and stock 15x6 wheels. The first drop was with cut coils and stock control arms, I never had a clearance problem. With AirRide Strong Arms and dropped spindles I still dont have any clearance problems, laid out or completely raised. The truck is a 84 short bed.

[shifty]

Are you running drums or discs? And do those Belltech spindles work with the stock balljoints, etc?

[MotorHead Lon]

I have discs. There are two different sizes on the 73-87. A thick rotor and a thinner one. I cant remember the exact measurements offhand. But my truck has the thinner rotors. The thick rotor spindles have a different spud and the lower balljoint is larger. It has been a while since I have ordered spindles so if I'm wrong I'm sure somebody will correct me.

[SCOTI]

My 74: 3" Bell Tech spindles + 1 coil removed from stock springs & 15x6.5" ralleys & stock GM 73~87 1.25" discs.
My 68: 2.5" Western Chassis spindles + 1 coil removed from stock springs & 15x6.5" ralleys & stock GM 73~87 1.25" discs.

No cutting or grinding required. About the only tweak needed was the flex-line fitting @ the caliper. It need to be tweaked slightly to ensure the hose didn't contact any metal where routed to the frame.

The more BS the wheel has, the sooner there's an interference issue.

[Wasted Income]

Ha, I just figured this out the hard way the other night....

2.5" drop McGaughty's spindles, 15x8 AR wheels (not sure on backspacing). When I turned to the lock, I ripped my wheel weights off the inside....LOL.

Gotta pull the front wheels, grind some off the lower control arms, and re-balance my wheels

[thekid54]

I have an '82 front end with thick rotors on my '63 frame. DJM 3" drop spindles and I have run '71 15x6 steelies and 15x7 Astro Supremes. I didn't have to take any material off the spindles. However, I did have to take a little of the brake caliper.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by MotorHead Lon

I have discs.

I felt like a real dumbass after posting this question, then I forgot to edit.

We're talking about spindles...of course you have discs

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by shifty

Do they forwarn people about this when you buy them?

If not, any idea why a company would make a part that required to be ground down when used with the stock sized wheels?

I've never seen a warning about it anywhere but in forums. This is usually only a problem when used in conjunction with springs. At stock spring height, there is no intereference problem- maybe why they don't say anything.

Stock rallies work fine, as long as you don't mind losing your inner wheel weights occasionally. I had some sweet spiral shavings off the inside of some 15" aluminum Centerlines- looked like what you would find on the floor at a machine shop...

Originally Posted by MotorHead Lon

I have discs. There are two different sizes on the 73-87. A thick rotor and a thinner one. I cant remember the exact measurements offhand. But my truck has the thinner rotors. The thick rotor spindles have a different spud and the lower balljoint is larger. It has been a while since I have ordered spindles so if I'm wrong I'm sure somebody will correct me.

Balljoints and tie-rods are the same either way. The only difference is the spindle and related brake hardware(rotors, bearings, calipers)

Originally Posted by shifty

I felt like a real dumbass after posting this question, then I forgot to edit.

We're talking about spindles...of course you have discs

You said it...

[protrash64]

I'll chime in..........I used CPP spindles on my 64 'burb......73 and up suspension upgrade; 1+1/4" discs.........1" springs. I had 15s w/ 4" backspace.........minor rub on one caliper at the top. An 80grit flap disc took it off in 2 seconds........no turning issues.

[slammed1]

Most drop spindles have a recommended wheel diameter to use as a guide but since there are all kinds of wheel offsets,brands,types and such its really tough to cover all bases. I know some companies spindles require 17" or larger wheels and some you have to trim the lower balljoints and such for some diameter rims to fit.

When also comparing a rim of the same width,offset and diameter but using either steel or aluminum is also something to look out for as aluminum wheels will have the inside radius much tighter than a steel rim.

In reality the "bolt-on" part of truck or car building just dont happen anymore and if your doing a custom drop,lift,wheels or anything its really up to the installer (you or your mechanic) to make sure all fitaments and such agree with all the components used.

[jlaird]

I have 3" DJM spindles for the 73-87 and had to grind slightly on them. They JUST came in contact with stock 15" steelies. No big deal.

[dingo_dan_22]

I have the 3" belltech drop spindles on my 71' and had to grind anbout a 1/4" off the lower control arm. They used factory balljoints and tierods (which I replaced anyways).

[dingo_dan_22]

In the "destructions" from belltech it said you may have to grind the lower control arm.

[HotRodYJ]

My 71 has thick rotor dropped spindles from Airbagit.com (I know they have a terrible rep) and 2" lowered springs from LMC. Factory 15x8 ralley wheels and no interferance issues at all. Instructions said some clearancing on the lower A-arm might be necessary with 15" wheels but I havn't had that problem. everything clears just fine.

[67shortie]

I run ECE dropped spindles and factory disks on 15 inch rims and have no issues.

I read that there is a difference on some wheels when it comes to the step in the inside. It has to do with one being a drum wheel and one being a disk wheel. this is for factory stamped wheels, but I wonder if some are having issues with this?