03-20-2008, 10:36 PM | #1 |
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Location: Kelso, WA
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Toyota
So I think I'm gonna get a yota to help me out with the gas problem... 87 22r with like 80,000 miles. Oh yeah and it 4x4 pretty sweet. I was thinking about off road capability and was wondering what you guys think about welding up the front and rear gears I'm pretty much just gonna run the piss out of her anyways. Is this dangerous in any way? Cause I've seen it done and it works...
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1972 K10 4" lift, 35’s, 383 stroker, 700r4, current project. 1971 C10 3"/5" static drop, 355/350. "La Bamba.” The current daily driver. |
03-21-2008, 03:59 AM | #2 |
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Location: kingsport,upper east tenn
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Re: Toyota
dont weld the front , if you do , you will be braking axles and barfields all the time inless you spend a bunch of $$ on tougher stuff
heres a friend of mines yota , he has a butt load of $$$$ in this thing and its a blast to play in |
03-21-2008, 04:53 AM | #3 |
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Re: Toyota
That's pretty sic... so would it be alright to weld up the rear?
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1972 K10 4" lift, 35’s, 383 stroker, 700r4, current project. 1971 C10 3"/5" static drop, 355/350. "La Bamba.” The current daily driver. |
03-21-2008, 11:24 PM | #4 |
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Re: Toyota
Out of curiosity, what are you expecting to get for mileage out of the yota?
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1971 Suburban 4x4, LQ4 6.0L, 4L80E, etc. |
03-22-2008, 03:25 AM | #5 |
huh ???
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Fredericksburg,Va.
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Re: Toyota
Yota's are tuff little trucks. I've owned an 84 4Runner and an 85 4x4 pickup. Both had 22R with 5 speeds. I bought both of them with over 200,000 miles on them. Never had a bit of troubles with them. 87 will have IFS, but even they are tuff as $^&@. I wouldn't weld up either diff, you shouldn't need to...
Chuck
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90 Blazer Silverado 350w/ 700R4 and 32" Kelly's "I am a bomb technician. If you see me running try to keep up!" |
03-22-2008, 03:49 AM | #6 |
just can't cover up my redneck
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Location: Columbus OH
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Re: Toyota
I always recommend against it for either end. It is especially hard on front axles and axle-joints. A solid, no differential, front axle is very difficult to steer and the wheels will have a tendancy to steer you.
In the rear it is a handful to drive on the street, though some will tell you otherwise. This is all based on a solidly locked axle, such as a spool, welded is another story. Most of the time the welding is done with the differential in the housing....which is pure hackery IMO...but even the best attempt is still shakey. The heat is hard on parts and there is just no good reason to do this. When it breaks there is usually a rather violent reaction, you just never know what will really happen.....it's usually bad though. |
03-22-2008, 08:59 AM | #7 |
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Re: Toyota
well for gas milage I just want something better than 8mpg and basically it's gonna be a truck to take out into the woods and beat the piss out of her, as for welding the rear end that was purely hypothetical... a what if situation. I would probably spool the rear though.
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1972 K10 4" lift, 35’s, 383 stroker, 700r4, current project. 1971 C10 3"/5" static drop, 355/350. "La Bamba.” The current daily driver. |
03-22-2008, 02:43 PM | #8 |
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Location: Central Vermont
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Re: Toyota
Guess I'm wondering if it's only gonna be a woods truck to play with and beat on, how's it gonna save ya gas?
Cause beatin' on it in the woods ain't gonna net out 20mpg ya know. In a 'beat on it' woods truck, weld em, why not. May last about as long as the truck will. If the truck is fairly clean and you hope to keep it, then do it right, build it slow as you can afford to and wheel it for years. Toyota's are great little trucks, have any pics? |
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