Headlight Relay Upgrade

[bamabaxter]

I know this has been covered before several times on the forum, but I have to say that if anyone has a truck that hasn't performed this upgrade, you don't know what you are missing. It is unbelievable that 2 relays, a circuit breaker, 5 bucks worth of wire, and about 20 minutes could change the lighting and overall electrical system so much. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!!

[Mister laugh]

I agree, even on standard sealed beams it makes a huge difference. But when you upgrade further to H4's with a GOOD bulb wow what a difference you can get.

[71MUTT]

Give a poor old man a link...............................

[Mister laugh]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=182351

link for you.

[muscletrucks]

Ya happy now Mutt?

[manimal]

I wil see if I can locate the thread. But here is a run down...

Tools needs:test light,soldier iron/soldier(60-40),shrink tube,heat gun/lighter,wire cutters/strippers,(2)30amp Bosch style relays SPDT,female spade connectors,10g ring terminals,(2)inline fuse holders w/30amp fuses,small roll of 10g automotive grade primary red wire,14g balck primary wire for the ground,electrical tape and plastic wire loom. I may have frogotten something,but as you go you'll firgure out if you need something.
First off,DISCONNECT BATTERY,then unplug the headlight socket on the drivers side,turn on the lights and find the "LOW" beam wire with the test light, then hit the "HIGH BEAMS" and repeat. Mark each wire.
I strip back the factory wire wrapping about 12-18" BEFORE the driver side loght socket and expose the wires. Find the wires that you marked for the "LOW" and "HIGH" and cut them. Strip back the ends COMING FROM THE FIREWALL CONNECTOR,slide a piece of shrink tube onto each wire,then either crimp AND/OR soldier on a female spade connector. Then heat shrink the tube on the ends. That will plug into the #85 position on the relays.(mark your relays HIGH-LOW)
Now take and strip the other end of the wires you cut,slide a piece of shrink tube over and crimp AND/OR soldier on another female spade connector to those. Match the wire colors and plug into the #87 position of the relays.
Now take your 10g RED primary wire and run from the BATTERY + side terminal
across the radiator support to you relays. Instal a ring terminal on the battery end. On the relays,the position #30 is the power side. Take your inline fuse holders,install a female spade connector on ONE end and plug into relay(#30 position). Now strip back the other end of both AND the 10g RED wire from the battery and soldier all three wires together...DONT FORGET TO SLIDE ON SOME SHRINK TUBE. Now heat shrink the splice.
Now take the 14g BLACK primary wire(you'l need 2 pieces at least 8-10" long)and strip back both ends,one end gets a female spade,the other gets a ring terminal. This plugs into the #86 position on the relays and the ring terminals go to a GOOD ground.

And that should do it. Reconnect the battery,install the 10g RED wire to the + side terminal on the battery,and turn on the headlights and check. Good Luck.
I dont have a schematic drawn,but a few pics of the way I have done mine. Also I go to the wrecking yards and find the headlight harness out of another truck so I can position the relays where I want. I will cut the harness thats in the truck off at the drivers side connector then cut the "NEW" donor harness off back BEFORE the connector about 12-18", so I will have enough to play with.
If you pm me with your email I will send you pics of mine. Good Luck.
-Lance

If I forgot something,please someone chime in. Thanks

[bamabaxter]

Don't forget to put some kind pf circuit breaker between the relays and the battery. I got a little 30 amp circuit breaker from Advanced in the electrical section that will open and re shut itself if needed...no fuses required.

[Riveted1]

If you don't feel like taking the time to do it all yourself and want it to look pretty, check this out. (Look in the lower left-hand corner)

[jayharrell]

Well i put the same relay setup on my electric fans but with no breaker. Should i stop and get a breaker???

[manimal]

Originally Posted by bamabaxter

Don't forget to put some kind pf circuit breaker between the relays and the battery. I got a little 30 amp circuit breaker from Advanced in the electrical section that will open and re shut itself if needed...no fuses required.

Thank You, forgot to mention to install fuses or circuit breakers.
-Lance

[manimal]

Originally Posted by Riveted1

If you don't feel like taking the time to do it all yourself and want it to look pretty, check this out. (Look in the lower left-hand corner)

If done right,it will look VERY good. possibly even STOCK.
-Lance

[Longhorn Man]

I k now the LMC kit that is linked up there has total crap relays. Knowing there commitment to quality (snicker) I would expect the plugs to be junk also.

[chrislehr]

Originally Posted by Riveted1

If you don't feel like taking the time to do it all yourself and want it to look pretty, check this out. (Look in the lower left-hand corner)

Tough to justify $40 shipped though. Any board vendors make one pre-made?

[steelhorse]

I would be interested in it too.

[bamabaxter]

Jayherrell i'd recommend a breaker or at least fuses. I am putting the ford taurus fan on mine monday and i think everyone says at least a 30 amp fuse is required. most fans will blow a 20 amp. after seeing my friend's 240sx almost burn to the ground because his fans had no fuses and grounded out, i definitely try to do my electrical work with Murphy's Law in mind.

[Riveted1]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I k now the LMC kit that is linked up there has total crap relays. Knowing there commitment to quality (snicker) I would expect the plugs to be junk also.

Guess I'll find out tomorrow!

[Sinister]

I have that LMC kit, works fine, looks clean, plug and play. I tried without luck to get some spare relays from the factory that made them, no luck, they're in Tawain and don't speak very good English...

[Riveted1]

Looks like you could just pick up some spare relays from Napa.

[Sinister]

Originally Posted by Riveted1

Looks like you could just pick up some spare relays from Napa.

Good idea, just don't know if they're wired the same way...

[Riveted1]

Should be... they're just simple SPDT relays I believe... will know more tomorrow when my kit shows up.

[Rollie396]

Just for the record,I'm completely illiterate when it comes to auto electric,but this is something you can do!
I did it on my '80 with stuff I either had or bought from napa.

P.S.I would have used shrink wrap on the yellow connections,but I didn't have large enough tubes at the time.

*edit*The single 10awg wire comes from the firewall bulkhead(on an 80,I believe 72 and earlier are on the core support).That wire runs through a 30amp breaker(if something goes wrong,the lights will flash on and off,unlike a fuse which will be a daaaarrrrkk ride).From there,I split it off into to bright and dim relays.

[Longhorn Man]

I used H.D. relays off a scrapped '96 P/30 step van. Got the plug with weather pack connections, and cut the pigtail off nice and long.
Now I just need to do the burb.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I used H.D. relays off a scrapped '96 P/30 step van. Got the plug with weather pack connections, and cut the pigtail off nice and long.
Now I just need to do the burb.

I like that idea! Do you have a picture?
Thanks,
s/t

[manimal]

Originally Posted by chrislehr

Tough to justify $40 shipped though. Any board vendors make one pre-made?

I am in the process of "making" my own set-up and reselling. But would be ALOT nicer than LMC's. Better Quality and probably a little more money.
-Lance

[jayharrell]

Where did you get that junksion block longhorn??

i"ve hit every auto parts store in town and no one has one. I need one for my fan relay, and in the future will need the same block for the head light relays.

I just need to hit the man mall i guess and snatch one up.