post hei swap headlight issue

[brad_man_72]

i used the big pink wire for + (tested 12V key on) hooked up factory tach that works fine.
at idle my headlights are bright (not high beam) 1/4 throttle the lights dim, more than 1/4 throttle the lights are bright again, not a progressive dimming but like you hit a switch. so what did i do wrong this time.
i didnt notice this when i was running points, but i dont do alot of night driving.

[70rs/ss]

I use the wire from the points (resistance wire), then pull the terminal out of the fuse block and replace it with a heavy guage wire and new terminal, that was it is the way the factory wired the ignition but with a regular wire to get full voltage. I am guessing the pink wire you used is for another circut and you are drawing too much from it and or you cut the wire to use it and broke the other circut? The other thing is maybe the alt is bad or the regulator is bad? I am curious, maybe someone will come along and tell us what the pink wire is for?

[70rs/ss]

Here are some wiring diagrams, the only wire I see that it could be that you used is the red main power wire and if that is the one, then it could be too much of a draw on that 12 source. If it isn't this wire, than give us an idea where you got/found the wire and I'll see what I can do from there?

[Longhorn Man]

I think he is talking about the pink wire on the back side of the ignition switch. It is plenty strong enough, better in fact, than the fuse box Ign unfused like everyone here says to use.
I highly doubt this is in any way related to the HEI.
I would start with cleaning the grounds on the headlamp harness to core support on either side, and then also make sure the core support is grounded good (even add a strap from the battery to the core support)

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I always tie in with the pink wire behind the ign. switch but leave it connected to the rest of the system.

[70rs/ss]

I was thinking I had a pink wire on my blazer from the AC so I wasn't sure? I'd guess a ground could do it or the reg/alt maybe as it drops and comes back up? LHM I agree the pink is way better than a bladed connection to the fuse box!! I have some picts of how I do mine, I think krue was looking for picts for a FAQ's maybe I should post them (It'll take a few days) but I think this is more along the lines of LHM's suggestions. Test the batt and alt at an autozone or checker, they roll the cart out there and test on the vehicle!

[michael bustamante]

Mine was doing this too. I converted to the 2 relay headlight wiring set up so the power for the lights comes from the battery directly and cleaned up the grounds, now I have no more dimming at slow acceleration, I have no dimming at all now and the dash lights got brighter too.

[brad_man_72]

thanks for all of the replies and ideas. i got the pink/red wire from the positive side of the coil (i was under the assumption that this wire would be around 9V so i tested it and got 99% of batt voltage 13.?) so i used it. i guess i better trace it down to figure out what the p.o. has done with my truck.