Rusted thru under dash. How to fix - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Locutus · 02-12-2003, 04:25 PM

This was taken thru the glovebox. Is there any way to fix this with out getting a new cab. The cab needs rockers and floor pans, but cab corners are good. It appears the kick panels may need replacing too. BTW previous owner attemped repair by stuffing crumpled aluminum in the hole.

Locutus · 02-12-2003, 04:25 PM

Second look

Locutus · 02-12-2003, 04:26 PM

third view

Eddie H. · 02-12-2003, 05:56 PM

I have repaired that type of problem by sand blasting all the rust out and using fiberglass cloth and resin on both sides.
As long as you get down to clean metal, it makes a good permanent repair, and the fiberglass won't rust out again.
I fixed my 69 GMC 15 years ago with this method, and haven't had any problems with it since.

**jerry moss** · 02-14-2003, 01:03 AM

thats really sad looking, i feel sorry for you guys in heavy rust areas. i've never seen a cab with that much rot. if you care to take a road trip to calif. i can
show you dozens of cabs that need less work than yours. all wrecking yards around here have cabs that are useable. we don't even look at sheetmetal that needs rust repair. come on out, i'll be happy to show you around and help you find some nice sheetmetal parts

Dads72 · 02-14-2003, 01:33 AM

Those pics are of the inside. The rust must be starting from a leak on the outside, maybe from the antennae (sp?) mount.
If everything is still structurally sound, it looks like a job for POR 15 (or something similar)
Main issue here is to stop the moisture leak (or old leaves and stuff) from the outside.
If you can't poke holes in the rusty looking sections with a screwdriver, you might be okay.
Coat it with something and get the aluminum foil out of there. Then maybe caulk the seams.
Remember, though, that whatever caused that is coming from the outside.
It looks fixable to me.
--- Just keep the glove compartment closed.

**Desert Rat** · 02-14-2003, 04:53 PM

Yikes!!!!!! If you want to have a real nice truck id consider a cab swap,IMO opinion easier than fixing that the right way,and cheaper.if its that bad there,im sure the kick panels,firewall,floor arent real good.Down here if something needs rockers and kick panels i consider it rusty.Its fairly easy to find nice cabs here.but if you just want to cover up the holes id go with the sandblast fiberglass method,it will seal it up anyhow,i personally wouldnt dump a load of cash in it,but thats just me.

imaindianoutlaw · 02-14-2003, 06:11 PM

Just like mine! I plan to replace the cab in a couple years! The rest of my cab is really nice!

Locutus · 02-14-2003, 06:34 PM

How much would a rust free cab go for? Or maybe not even a totally rust free, maybe even one that needs rockers or maybe floor pans but definately not as much work as I got now.

**jerry moss** · 02-14-2003, 09:41 PM

out here a cab needing only rockers and/or cabcorners can be bought for under a hundred bucks. i think you'll be money ahead if you get a good cab to start with. i meant what i said earlier, if you're willing to drive out here, i'll help you find a good cab to start with.

i'm sure deset rat can come up with nice cabs in his area too and he's closer to you. best of luck.

**Desert Rat** · 02-14-2003, 10:07 PM

If i have a cab thats a AC cab that just needs a rocker or cab corner,without floor or kick panel rust,i get $100 for.I was offered $1500 for the 67 cab i have now but turned it down because it needs no patches or welding,and its from a short box truck with a title a GMC and same year and perfect for the 67 GMC i am going to build,normally id sell it for about $700 if i didnt need it.I can find you one much better than that,but may need rockers but wont have the extensive damage your has,and id give it to you.i just bought a rust free 70 short bed im going to part,but the cab has been rolled but the cab corners,firewall,rockers,floors and kick panels are beautiful,its just the roof is squished,the windshield lip is even ok still,once i get it cut apart you could have the whole cab,or patch panels if you want to fix yours.i need to bring it home,same place as my 65 Biscayne is sitting.by the way ill be parting a 70 CST that has a 350\ if anyone needs anything.

Locutus · 02-15-2003, 11:04 PM

I would gladly drive to AZ or CA for a good cab for a low price. So if either of you guys can hook me up I will be glad to make the trip to get it, but being I am in Texas I can't just go to look around. I am content to do rocker and floor pans, cab corners are getting to very edge of what I would fell comfortable cutting out and welding replacements in. A roof is definately something out of my league. I would love a cab that doesn't require any of that but I do not know if my pocketbook or wife would agree. By the way my truck is a 69 w/o AC, but I would consider an AC cab since right now I don't even have a heater and maybe I can score the AC and heater parts at the same time as the cab. I will take a cab that either has a good dash or has been nicely cut to accept a modern in dash cd player. I hope I am not to picky.

Mike

Locutus · 02-17-2003, 10:53 AM

ttt

rusty ol' 69' · 02-17-2003, 03:06 PM

Which brentwood are you located at in California. Are you in the one by Los Angeles, or the one by (sp?)Antioch?

02-12-2003, 04:25 PM	#1
Locutus Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Santa Fe, Texas Posts: 250	Rusted thru under dash. How to fix This was taken thru the glovebox. Is there any way to fix this with out getting a new cab. The cab needs rockers and floor pans, but cab corners are good. It appears the kick panels may need replacing too. BTW previous owner attemped repair by stuffing crumpled aluminum in the hole. Attached Images

02-12-2003, 04:25 PM	#2
Locutus Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Santa Fe, Texas Posts: 250	Second look Attached Images

02-12-2003, 04:26 PM	#3
Locutus Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Santa Fe, Texas Posts: 250	third view Attached Images

02-12-2003, 05:56 PM	#4
Eddie H. Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Paradise TX USA Posts: 1,200	I have repaired that type of problem by sand blasting all the rust out and using fiberglass cloth and resin on both sides. As long as you get down to clean metal, it makes a good permanent repair, and the fiberglass won't rust out again. I fixed my 69 GMC 15 years ago with this method, and haven't had any problems with it since. __________________ "Negative people always seem to have a problem for every solution"

02-14-2003, 01:03 AM	#5
jerry moss Born Psycho Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: brentwood,cal,usa Posts: 4,861	thats really sad looking, i feel sorry for you guys in heavy rust areas. i've never seen a cab with that much rot. if you care to take a road trip to calif. i can show you dozens of cabs that need less work than yours. all wrecking yards around here have cabs that are useable. we don't even look at sheetmetal that needs rust repair. come on out, i'll be happy to show you around and help you find some nice sheetmetal parts __________________ jerry moss 72 cheyenne super K20- tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,tow hooks,bumper guards,toolbox,aux. fuel tank,posi front and rear,plus other goodies!!! SOLD 69 suburban K20-tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,4 inch all spring lift,4 speed, 14 bolt full floater, dana 44 HD,warn winch,posi front and rear,tow hooks,plus other goodies. 73/80 chevy/gmc K20 SB400,turbo 400,205,tilt,a-c,gas hog. 77 K/5 cheyenne blazer-daily driver/beater. SON HAS IT NOW BRENTWOOD,CALIFORNIA

02-14-2003, 01:33 AM	#6
Dads72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 427	Those pics are of the inside. The rust must be starting from a leak on the outside, maybe from the antennae (sp?) mount. If everything is still structurally sound, it looks like a job for POR 15 (or something similar) Main issue here is to stop the moisture leak (or old leaves and stuff) from the outside. If you can't poke holes in the rusty looking sections with a screwdriver, you might be okay. Coat it with something and get the aluminum foil out of there. Then maybe caulk the seams. Remember, though, that whatever caused that is coming from the outside. It looks fixable to me. --- Just keep the glove compartment closed.

02-14-2003, 04:53 PM	#7
Desert Rat Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Darrington, Washington Posts: 3,963	Yikes!!!!!! If you want to have a real nice truck id consider a cab swap,IMO opinion easier than fixing that the right way,and cheaper.if its that bad there,im sure the kick panels,firewall,floor arent real good.Down here if something needs rockers and kick panels i consider it rusty.Its fairly easy to find nice cabs here.but if you just want to cover up the holes id go with the sandblast fiberglass method,it will seal it up anyhow,i personally wouldnt dump a load of cash in it,but thats just me.

02-14-2003, 06:11 PM	#8
imaindianoutlaw GMC SHORT FLEET F/S Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: SOUTH WILLIAMSPORT PENNSYLVANNIA Posts: 2,117	Just like mine! I plan to replace the cab in a couple years! The rest of my cab is really nice! __________________ CHARLES WADE HEIN HVACR FOREMAN. LEWISBURG U.S.P.

02-14-2003, 06:34 PM	#9
Locutus Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Santa Fe, Texas Posts: 250	How much would a rust free cab go for? Or maybe not even a totally rust free, maybe even one that needs rockers or maybe floor pans but definately not as much work as I got now.

02-14-2003, 09:41 PM	#10
jerry moss Born Psycho Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: brentwood,cal,usa Posts: 4,861	out here a cab needing only rockers and/or cabcorners can be bought for under a hundred bucks. i think you'll be money ahead if you get a good cab to start with. i meant what i said earlier, if you're willing to drive out here, i'll help you find a good cab to start with. i'm sure deset rat can come up with nice cabs in his area too and he's closer to you. best of luck. __________________ jerry moss 72 cheyenne super K20- tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,tow hooks,bumper guards,toolbox,aux. fuel tank,posi front and rear,plus other goodies!!! SOLD 69 suburban K20-tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,4 inch all spring lift,4 speed, 14 bolt full floater, dana 44 HD,warn winch,posi front and rear,tow hooks,plus other goodies. 73/80 chevy/gmc K20 SB400,turbo 400,205,tilt,a-c,gas hog. 77 K/5 cheyenne blazer-daily driver/beater. SON HAS IT NOW BRENTWOOD,CALIFORNIA

02-14-2003, 10:07 PM	#11
Desert Rat Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Darrington, Washington Posts: 3,963	If i have a cab thats a AC cab that just needs a rocker or cab corner,without floor or kick panel rust,i get $100 for.I was offered $1500 for the 67 cab i have now but turned it down because it needs no patches or welding,and its from a short box truck with a title a GMC and same year and perfect for the 67 GMC i am going to build,normally id sell it for about $700 if i didnt need it.I can find you one much better than that,but may need rockers but wont have the extensive damage your has,and id give it to you.i just bought a rust free 70 short bed im going to part,but the cab has been rolled but the cab corners,firewall,rockers,floors and kick panels are beautiful,its just the roof is squished,the windshield lip is even ok still,once i get it cut apart you could have the whole cab,or patch panels if you want to fix yours.i need to bring it home,same place as my 65 Biscayne is sitting.by the way ill be parting a 70 CST that has a 350\ if anyone needs anything.

02-15-2003, 11:04 PM	#12
Locutus Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Santa Fe, Texas Posts: 250	I would gladly drive to AZ or CA for a good cab for a low price. So if either of you guys can hook me up I will be glad to make the trip to get it, but being I am in Texas I can't just go to look around. I am content to do rocker and floor pans, cab corners are getting to very edge of what I would fell comfortable cutting out and welding replacements in. A roof is definately something out of my league. I would love a cab that doesn't require any of that but I do not know if my pocketbook or wife would agree. By the way my truck is a 69 w/o AC, but I would consider an AC cab since right now I don't even have a heater and maybe I can score the AC and heater parts at the same time as the cab. I will take a cab that either has a good dash or has been nicely cut to accept a modern in dash cd player. I hope I am not to picky. Mike

02-17-2003, 10:53 AM	#13
Locutus Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Santa Fe, Texas Posts: 250	ttt

02-17-2003, 03:06 PM	#14
rusty ol' 69' Grubbin' Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Chico, CA Posts: 293	Hey Jerry Moss Which brentwood are you located at in California. Are you in the one by Los Angeles, or the one by (sp?)Antioch? __________________ project rust attack 1969 Chevrolet LWB w/ 307. I got power steering now woohooooo!!!!!!!



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