Suspension question

[phipp13]

anyone using ladderbars on thier truck??? i'm in the process of building a 48" set of ladderbars for my 72swb stepside. got 295 50 15s and they go up in smoke with a stout 355 cid. i'm finishing up on a blown 383 and got to do something. 1/2 tubbing it to the framerails (add 6") of tire. plus i'm running a braced ford 9" smokenm is fun but not being able to hook up sucks!

[Super73]

Are these a regular old street radial? If so, first step is to invest in some decent drag radial. MT drag radials would be a good start, also keep in mind, height helps just as much as width when it comes to traction.

What does the truck weigh? Total and front weight.
What are you using for springs and shocks?
How easy is it to lift the front end by the fenders?
What hole is the front of the ladder bar in? (Upper, Mid, lower).

[djracer]

I think he is saying he wants to go to ladder bars. I don't think that Ladders bars work any better on our trucks than trailing arms. Either will take a little work to dial in. springs, shocks,Pinion angle and such.

[Super73]

I do agree with Kevin here and that is why I didn't change it, but enhanced what was already there with and adjustable front mount.

[djracer]

When Tom had my truck several guys tried to improve their truck suspensions with 4 link and ladder bars and he'd out 60ft all of them.

[phipp13]

i hope i'm not screwing up by going with these ladderbars. neg 2 deg down angle ? also they will be linked to the same FWD/AFT location as the trailing arms. i know this is very important because of the lack of rear weight of the truck. wish me luck!!

[ripdog28]

I agree with DJ's first reply. You know that NASCAR and the CRAFTMANS trucks all run our style trailing arms. Must be better then most make them out to be. Im sticking with them just some boxed ones from ECE.

[Super73]

FYI, Nascar is stuck with them as it's written in the rules. For what they do there are much better options out there, but, they limit it to help keep it competitive and more of a drivers race.

For drag racing though, the factory set up is pretty good. There are some small advantages to a true ladder bar over our factory stuff. But our factory stuff can be made to work just the same.

[phipp13]

i made sure that the ladderbar suspension will hook up in the front to the same for/aft location as the trailing arms.maybe an inch fwd. i know these trucks hook so good is because of the front pivot location. all the weight aft of the pivot is weight on the rear wheels. pretty smart design if i may add. 1420 is the rear weight 3820 is total weight and 2400 is the front weight with me in it (260 lbs... ol fat bastard) . i brought the lady at the dump some dunkin donuts coffee and a bear claw and she was more than happy to weigh my truck. QA1 has a nice chart for buying the right shocks and spring rate for my truck.looks like its gonna be single adj QA1's on all 4 corners for me. now i just need to find the best deal on them.any help would be apprechiated . also thanks guys for all your help. V/R phipp

[djracer]

I have a friend that may be able to save you some money on the Qa1 stuff. I think you need to try to move some weight to the rear. Your ratios are pretty nose heavy.

[Super73]

That truck is very nose heavy. 62.82% in the front and 37.17% in the rear. The worst mine ever was was 59% / 41%. After some changes, last time out it was 55%/45%.

Yet another 67-72 truck running a Gen 1 SBC that is lighter than my 63 with an LS1/4L80E. Do you have any weight reduction done?

Here are some ideas. Not all of which I have done, yet:
Set the battery as far back in the bed as possible.
Put your fuel cell as far back as possible (Not sure where the factory tank is).
If the truck has a rake, try and get it to sit level.
Remove stuff you don't need, power steering, power brakes, inner fenders, front bumper
Get a glass hood
If you have steel wheels get some draglites or something comprable

[phipp13]

yes it does sit higher in the rear but the new front springs and coilovers in the rear will fix that ie truck will be level. took the front bumper off today for a rollpan thats comming next week. fuel cell 16 gal will be aft of rear diff. battery RR corner of bed. will loose the fuel tank, bench seat, maybe the front fenderwells for some homemade alum ones, radiator will be alum. hell i'll even put my seat all the way back! it will go on a serious diet. for sure phipp

[Super73]

My advise is to not buy springs until after you move the weight around and reweigh it. You spring requirements will change when the weight is lost or moved.

[djracer]

Originally Posted by Super73

My advise is to not buy springs until after you move the weight around and reweigh it. You spring requirements will change when the weight is lost or moved.

Good advise!

[phipp13]

very good advise. please pm me on that qa1 info. autofab in elkridge md had the promastar single adj coilovers w/ upper and lower mounts and springs of my chioce for 449.00 thats 50 bucks cheaper than jegs. its a nice setup. pm me with your info on those shocks please. v/r phipp

[phipp13]

i have pics of the rear, ladderbars brkts, etc on my build thread.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=318731