Help me hook! :)

[AlienYouth]

well, i got 325 gforce TA's and a locker, my rear is lowered 6", stock shock location

where should i start? i may buy full slicks in spring, but right now, i feel like there's another area that needs improvement since i can do burnouts at highway speed and make less than 500 HP... lol

my thoughts are buying 3" drop springs up front (raise the front an inch) and new shocks and relocate the rear shocks. my question is will the shocks be good enough, or should i do coilovers or something different before i buy new shocks and they end up not helping... srry for the long post

Thanks

here's a pic, since i havent posted one in a while

[phipp13]

St Marys County MD here. 1st do you have trailing arms or leaf springs?? cal tracks for leafs. what it sounds like to me is when you lowered your truck sooo much you may have lost your negitive pinion angle. your angle should be 2 to 3 degrees neg.. if you have no neg pinion you have no traction. i'm no pro with these trucks but thats where i'd start at. pm me if you have more questions. DJ is really knowledgable as well as quite a few others on this site phipp

[Lx3]

See if you can get your hands on a book called Auto Math by John Lawler.

If you're a do it yourself type guy. If not find a Pro. It can look like

"Black Magic" but it's really just matching and tuning. Right tune and

parts will "dead hook" but mismatch or skimp and things start breaking.

Good Luck.

[Super73]

Can you explain "spinning the tires at highway speeds.." On a shift or down shift? Rolling in to the throttle?

I'm assuming your truck is a trailing arm set up?

Auto or 4 speed? If auto, what size converter?

Any idea of your weight bias and total weight?

My 01 SS had pretty good suspension but shifting 1-2 or even 2-3 with the manual, it had no problem breaking them loose with even a 275/40/17 drag radial with the factory 3.42's. That was at 335rwhp and it was worse when it made 405rwhp. When I went to a 4.10 and a 28x11.50 ET street, even after a decently big burn out, it would still leave 20ft strappers on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts on the street.

My truck makes more power than my car did. It's a little more dificult getting it out of the hole on the street with the big conveter, but it dead hooks the shifts.

The point I gues I'm trying to make here, is depending on how your driving a manual, it is going to shock the tires harder on the shifts.

If you can give us a little more info, we'll be able to give you better advice.

[Lx3]

The info needed to calculate can be pretty detailed. And I would need

alot of info. Try to find the book I mentioned and I'll see if I can find

something online to help. But all the power in the world is useless if

you can't put it to the ground and spinning the tires at highway speed

is flat dangerous. I'll get back to you.

[68 C-10 KID]

If you have the coil spring rear end you don't need to do much.

I recommend a Rancho Rs 9000 in the rear w/ relocators.
and a good 3 way for the front. or a single stage lake wood.
Start at 5 then work your way up and down till you get some reaction. Air pressure is also important. Play w/ it. it can improve your 60'.

I run a '68 that run 12's w/ a 1.64 60'. Rs 9000 on all 4 corners. Hoosiers 26x10's for race and 28x13.5 m/t DOT for street.

[LuckyHenriksen]

Truck looks good, what backspace is on your wheels?

[68 C-10 KID]

Originally Posted by LuckyHenriksen

Truck looks good, what backspace is on your wheels?

I run a 6" for race and a 4 1/2 for street. But i have extended my wheels tubs 6"

[AlienYouth]

Thanks for all the suggestions, it is trailing arm, TH400 w/ 3000 stall
i'm sure the weight bias is terrible, and total weight is probably at least 4600 with me, but i'm makin a trip to the dump today, so i'll let ya know

these are the rear wheels... 3.75 BS
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

i think the wheel/tire combo is perfect with a 6" drop, 325/50s, got an inch of clearance and stick out maybe a half inch

i think ima go ahead and do shocks and relocate, since anything i do is gonna start there...

i'll look for that book, maybe make my own shock brackets to get it just right (and cause i'm cheap)

again, thanks for all the help

[djracer]

any weight you can get off the front or relocate from the front to the rear will be a big help. I would move the battery and fuel to the very rear and lose the tool box.

[Super73]

Or put the tool box at the gate and make some room in it for a fuel cell and your batterey I would b interested to see the weight bias change with just moving the toolbox to the rear of the bed.


I'm assuming it's spining on a downshift when you lay in to it?

since you are as low as you are, the rear maybe squating but hitting the bump stops and putting a shock through your rear suspension. Might want to look there first.

[joeys66pickup]

x2 with what Dj said.....you could hide some turbos in the toolbox(o wait you Wanted to hook em not Cook em, my bad)

[LuckyHenriksen]

Sweet I just got some wheels with the same BS and width, and Im happy to know that I can fit that size of tire in there. Are your inner wheel tubs widened at all? Or are they stock

[AlienYouth]

thanks for the suggestions, my truck is actually only 4140 with me, my toolbox, and some other junk in it... my truck is gonna be on hold for a couple weeks while i get my new daily driver (datsun 521) roadworthy (old one went up in flames )

relocating the fuel tank is also up there in the list of things to do, just gotta find time to work on all my junk

and joey... i had just started workin on a TT setup when my other junk blew up, but it's still in the future

rear wheel tubs are stock

thanks again

[scatesracing]

My truck was the same way at one time....... the biggest help for me (was pointed out by one of my circle burner bubbies) was the fact that my pan hard was not even close to being level. I didnt think it would help.... but it did in a big way... less side movment when it squats... like pulling the rug out from under ya.. just my 2 cents

[redhead69]

my truck was like that then I realized I had some overload coils in addition to the regular coils. I took those off and the weight transfer/traction was immediate>

[68 C-10 KID]

Originally Posted by scatesracing

My truck was the same way at one time....... the biggest help for me (was pointed out by one of my circle burner bubbies) was the fact that my pan hard was not even close to being level. I didnt think it would help.... but it did in a big way... less side movment when it squats... like pulling the rug out from under ya.. just my 2 cents

So what panhard bar did you go with?

[Tmiller]

I have 5" drop in mine with adjustable panhard bar stock location. My biggest inprovement was the reinforcment kit on the trailing arms. Deffinately stopped the side to side lunge under tire spin. Friends told me on the strip the whole truck is jumping straight up in the air and unloading the rear, so my plan is to put short coilovers on the front to limit travel and tranfer weight, then long double adjustable coilovers on the back to give plenty of adjustment and travel.