Rocker replacement - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Sinister · 01-16-2009, 03:13 PM

Does the front fender have to come off when replacing a rocker panel?

**raggedjim** · 01-16-2009, 03:44 PM

I have always removed the fender to do this. I don't see anyway you could do it without removing the fender... I don't even think you can remove the old rocker without removing the fender...

Good luck, Rg

Sinister · 01-16-2009, 04:39 PM

Well, that's more work then I want to deal with right now. The rocker is basically solid. The lip that holds the door seal is rotted off in a few spots for about 6"-8" at the bottom though. I think I can just clean it up and weld in a piece of metal for the seal to hang on to.
If I disconnect the ground wire on the battery will I be O.K. to weld on the truck? Never welded before, but this will be my start.

Sinister · 01-16-2009, 04:45 PM

How does this welder look? http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100039229
I figure I can upgrade it to mig later.

Wilson_ · 01-16-2009, 04:51 PM

I have this one and I love it.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...3+90401+527842

you could also find used ones for pretty good prices on craigslist

Sinister · 01-16-2009, 04:57 PM

That's nice, but kind of out of my price range at the moment, plus I don't have 220 wired up here.

**raggedjim** · 01-16-2009, 06:02 PM

That welders better than mine, I have a Clarke EN130 with the gas package and it works well for me.

As far as your rocker, you can cut and weld in what you like, but it still takes effort. With the grinding you will have to do to make it look nice, I wouldn't be surprised if it ends up being more work than replacing the whole rocker...

But, if it's just the lip, you might try to pop rivet in a strip of metal to replace the missing lip, the seal will probably cover it and it will get you by until you have time to fix it right.

Good luck, Rg

hounddogs! · 01-16-2009, 06:20 PM

I did mine without removing the fenders. But, I did drill out nine billionty spots welds to do so.

Sinister · 01-16-2009, 10:16 PM

The rocker is basically solid, it's just the lip that holds the seal is ate up in a few spots. Anything I have to weld in would be covered by the seal and the sill plate. I think I'm going to go for it.

tim21391 · 01-16-2009, 10:42 PM

i left my fender on when we cut out my old rocker but i had no spot welds left i only had the welds on the front and back... had to take front clip off to fix pillars tho

Larry S · 01-17-2009, 10:10 AM

Im sure that is a pretty good unit because its made by lincoln, but Id either get the mig gauge kit with it or get another model. The flux core wire doesnt make a quality weld. It leaves ALOT of splatter. I have the lincoln 3200hd. I got it at home depot, and it runs off 110. I think they call it a different model # now. It does a great job for small stuff. Good luck!

Sinister · 01-17-2009, 10:18 AM

I'm looking at a 3200 HD on E-bay right now, will probally go for it.

Senator350 · 01-17-2009, 10:37 AM

1. practice on some scrap sheet metal first. (most of my local metal suppliers sells scrap steel by the pound, which is cool to try out different thicknesses and joints)

2. to weld sheet metal, you have to do LOTS of little tacks... not really run a bead. you have to do a billion tack welds and don't weld where it's still warm. (2.1 the sheet metal gets butted, not lapped)

3. you want a MIG. you don't want to weld flux core. it's a pain in the ballsack.

4. you want .30 or .35 wire ALWAYS. don't get anything smaller... it's easier to just tune your wire speed

5. check the reviews on the regulator that comes with the welder... it's a really important part, and sometimes the manu gives you a shyte one.

Either way... don't try to weld on your truck until you are at least decent at welding.

Sinister · 01-17-2009, 12:31 PM

Whoohoo, just pulled the trigger on the 3200 HD. Can't wait til it gets here.

Larry S · 01-17-2009, 04:17 PM

Good for you.

msgross · 01-17-2009, 04:21 PM

This one has free shipping and usually comes with a free cart... you'll want a cart...

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...Btool%2Bhobart

LONGHAIR · 01-17-2009, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Senator350

4. you want .30 or .35 wire ALWAYS. don't get anything smaller... it's easier to just tune your wire speed

I have always used .023 wire. It takes less power/heat to melt it, therefore less has to be absorbed by the metal parts that you are welding.

Sinister · 01-17-2009, 05:34 PM

What gauge is the sheet metal in these trucks?

msgross · 01-17-2009, 08:39 PM

I think most stuff is about 18 GA...

AusTx68 · 01-17-2009, 10:23 PM

When looking for a welder remember to check Craigslist. I found a Hobart Handler 210 for $500 and it was new in the box. I started using it yesterday for the first time. I created tack welds and beads on a thick piece of scrap metal. Then I tried it on sheet metal. That was tricky. I had to keep playing with the settings to keep from blowing holes in the metal. Once I was able to create tack welds on 18g sheet metal I attempted to tack butt welds. I had some trouble with burn thru and turned down the settings until I could get a good tack. I'm still not sure I have the right settings so I plan to keep playing with scrap sheet metal until I can get it right.

**raggedjim** · 01-19-2009, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

I have always used .023 wire. It takes less power/heat to melt it, therefore less has to be absorbed by the metal parts that you are welding.

I agree, the .023 works great for me.

truckintexas · 02-12-2009, 01:05 PM

Is this flux core .023, or are you welding with gas??

Sinister · 02-12-2009, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckintexas

Is this flux core .023, or are you welding with gas??

I'm pretty sure flux core doesn't come in .023

*Shane* · 02-12-2009, 01:43 PM

.023 user here too ....

AusTx68 · 02-12-2009, 06:35 PM

Same here. I finally visited a Hobart forum and found the right setting. I'm welding up a storm now

01-16-2009, 03:13 PM	#1
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Rocker replacement Does the front fender have to come off when replacing a rocker panel? __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

01-16-2009, 03:44 PM	#2
raggedjim Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Murray, Kentucky Posts: 3,476	Re: Rocker replacement I have always removed the fender to do this. I don't see anyway you could do it without removing the fender... I don't even think you can remove the old rocker without removing the fender... Good luck, Rg __________________ Roger '68 Short step - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=849675 '69 ('70?) 2wd Blazer '70 GMC Jimmy 2wd '73 Firebird - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=853203

01-16-2009, 04:39 PM	#3
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Rocker replacement Well, that's more work then I want to deal with right now. The rocker is basically solid. The lip that holds the door seal is rotted off in a few spots for about 6"-8" at the bottom though. I think I can just clean it up and weld in a piece of metal for the seal to hang on to. If I disconnect the ground wire on the battery will I be O.K. to weld on the truck? Never welded before, but this will be my start. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match... Last edited by Sinister; 01-16-2009 at 04:41 PM.

01-16-2009, 04:45 PM	#4
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Rocker replacement How does this welder look? http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100039229 I figure I can upgrade it to mig later. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match... Last edited by Sinister; 01-16-2009 at 04:46 PM.

01-16-2009, 04:51 PM	#5
Wilson_ Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 451	Re: Rocker replacement I have this one and I love it. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...3+90401+527842 you could also find used ones for pretty good prices on craigslist __________________ Northern California Group Met list: Cyclone, KCJones, TranzAm, extd56, hotrodhomi, mnky30, Rokcrln, Brad, JerryJones, Petey-pablo, 72Subby

01-16-2009, 04:57 PM	#6
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Rocker replacement That's nice, but kind of out of my price range at the moment, plus I don't have 220 wired up here. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

01-16-2009, 06:02 PM	#7
raggedjim Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Murray, Kentucky Posts: 3,476	Re: Rocker replacement That welders better than mine, I have a Clarke EN130 with the gas package and it works well for me. As far as your rocker, you can cut and weld in what you like, but it still takes effort. With the grinding you will have to do to make it look nice, I wouldn't be surprised if it ends up being more work than replacing the whole rocker... But, if it's just the lip, you might try to pop rivet in a strip of metal to replace the missing lip, the seal will probably cover it and it will get you by until you have time to fix it right. Good luck, Rg __________________ Roger '68 Short step - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=849675 '69 ('70?) 2wd Blazer '70 GMC Jimmy 2wd '73 Firebird - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=853203 Last edited by raggedjim; 01-16-2009 at 06:07 PM.

01-16-2009, 06:20 PM	#8
hounddogs! Restoring it $200 at a time... Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: NE Kansas Posts: 887	Re: Rocker replacement I did mine without removing the fenders. But, I did drill out nine billionty spots welds to do so. __________________ Charter member of the 'Put the dimmer switch back on the damn floor where it belongs' Society '68 5.3L-4 speed LWB C20; grandpa bought it for the farm in '71. Now LS 5.3, rather than 327. DD '09 Pilot Weekender '65 Skylark 300-4V-4 speed Wife's '07 Lexus ES350; 117 actuator motors and I can't see the engine. Son's '04 F250 SuperCab 6.0

01-16-2009, 10:16 PM	#9
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Rocker replacement The rocker is basically solid, it's just the lip that holds the seal is ate up in a few spots. Anything I have to weld in would be covered by the seal and the sill plate. I think I'm going to go for it. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

01-16-2009, 10:42 PM	#10
tim21391 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Salina, Kansas Posts: 1,998	Re: Rocker replacement i left my fender on when we cut out my old rocker but i had no spot welds left i only had the welds on the front and back... had to take front clip off to fix pillars tho __________________ 1972 C-10...402/400..flowmaster 40 series 1967 Mustang 347 stroker/C-4 1966 Mustang 289/3-speed 2013 Mustang V6/6speed w/300 ponies I may be 23, but i sure do knows 67-72s are sexy! Its not MPG its smiles per gallon! build started 11/25/08 build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=2993796

01-17-2009, 10:10 AM	#11
Larry S Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Gainesville Ga Posts: 210	Re: Rocker replacement Im sure that is a pretty good unit because its made by lincoln, but Id either get the mig gauge kit with it or get another model. The flux core wire doesnt make a quality weld. It leaves ALOT of splatter. I have the lincoln 3200hd. I got it at home depot, and it runs off 110. I think they call it a different model # now. It does a great job for small stuff. Good luck!

01-17-2009, 10:18 AM	#12
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Rocker replacement I'm looking at a 3200 HD on E-bay right now, will probally go for it. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

01-17-2009, 10:37 AM	#13
Senator350 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Albany, NY Posts: 522	Re: Rocker replacement 1. practice on some scrap sheet metal first. (most of my local metal suppliers sells scrap steel by the pound, which is cool to try out different thicknesses and joints) 2. to weld sheet metal, you have to do LOTS of little tacks... not really run a bead. you have to do a billion tack welds and don't weld where it's still warm. (2.1 the sheet metal gets butted, not lapped) 3. you want a MIG. you don't want to weld flux core. it's a pain in the ballsack. 4. you want .30 or .35 wire ALWAYS. don't get anything smaller... it's easier to just tune your wire speed 5. check the reviews on the regulator that comes with the welder... it's a really important part, and sometimes the manu gives you a shyte one. Either way... don't try to weld on your truck until you are at least decent at welding. __________________ RN U OVR Last edited by Senator350; 01-17-2009 at 10:47 AM.

01-17-2009, 12:31 PM	#14
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Rocker replacement Whoohoo, just pulled the trigger on the 3200 HD. Can't wait til it gets here. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

01-17-2009, 04:17 PM	#15
Larry S Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Gainesville Ga Posts: 210	Re: Rocker replacement Good for you.



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01-17-2009, 04:21 PM	#16
msgross Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Central PA Posts: 12,201	Re: Rocker replacement This one has free shipping and usually comes with a free cart... you'll want a cart... http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...Btool%2Bhobart __________________ The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer"

01-17-2009, 05:34 PM	#18
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Rocker replacement What gauge is the sheet metal in these trucks? __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

01-17-2009, 08:39 PM	#19
msgross Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Central PA Posts: 12,201	Re: Rocker replacement I think most stuff is about 18 GA... __________________ The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer"

01-17-2009, 10:23 PM	#20
AusTx68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Italy Posts: 1,278	Re: Rocker replacement When looking for a welder remember to check Craigslist. I found a Hobart Handler 210 for $500 and it was new in the box. I started using it yesterday for the first time. I created tack welds and beads on a thick piece of scrap metal. Then I tried it on sheet metal. That was tricky. I had to keep playing with the settings to keep from blowing holes in the metal. Once I was able to create tack welds on 18g sheet metal I attempted to tack butt welds. I had some trouble with burn thru and turned down the settings until I could get a good tack. I'm still not sure I have the right settings so I plan to keep playing with scrap sheet metal until I can get it right. __________________ '68 C-10 SWB 383 Stroker (Sold 3/2/2013) '87 R2500 LWB 454 TBI converted to Carb

02-12-2009, 01:05 PM	#22
truckintexas Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Weatherford, TX Posts: 225	Re: Rocker replacement Is this flux core .023, or are you welding with gas??

02-12-2009, 01:43 PM	#24
Shane Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: over yonder Posts: 14,270	Re: Rocker replacement .023 user here too ....

02-12-2009, 06:35 PM	#25
AusTx68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Italy Posts: 1,278	Re: Rocker replacement Same here. I finally visited a Hobart forum and found the right setting. I'm welding up a storm now __________________ '68 C-10 SWB 383 Stroker (Sold 3/2/2013) '87 R2500 LWB 454 TBI converted to Carb

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