Zero Rate/Add-a-leaf in front

[ericpost]

I'm thinking of using some salvage yard or my old rear springs in the front of my truck. I suspect either will have some sag in them. Is it possible to use add-a-leaf or zero rate springs level out the front if needed? Seems to me a zero rate spring is simply a lift block which bolts to the springs and I know lifting the front with a block is bad.

[Yukon Jack]

I believe Offroad Design sells a lot of their Zero Rate blocks. For a period of time I ran a home made set that were secured to the spring pack with a longer center pin, but honestly, I was never very comfortable with it. I have since replaced them with a different set of lift springs. I hated the thought of people looking under my truck and thinking he's using a lift block which is a no-no. In the end it was a band-aid to wanting a bit more lift. I got rid of them and now don't have to worry about what if the forces caused the center pin to break and one block came out.

I'm NOT saying they are unsafe - as that is beyond my level of knowledge. Just saying for me they ended up being a temporary thing.

As for using the rear springs up front, I believe they are different lengths than the fronts so I doubt that is an option without going to the trouble of relocating their attachment points. You could add a leaf or two, but who knows what affect that will have on your spring rate/ride quality - I'm sure it won't make it better!

[ericpost]

Originally Posted by Yukon Jack

I believe Offroad Design sells a lot of their Zero Rate blocks. For a period of time I ran a home made set that were secured to the spring pack with a longer center pin, but honestly, I was never very comfortable with it. I have since replaced them with a different set of lift springs. I hated the thought of people looking under my truck and thinking he's using a lift block which is a no-no. In the end it was a band-aid to wanting a bit more lift. I got rid of them and now don't have to worry about what if the forces caused the center pin to break and one block came out.

I'm NOT saying they are unsafe - as that is beyond my level of knowledge. Just saying for me they ended up being a temporary thing.

As for using the rear springs up front, I believe they are different lengths than the fronts so I doubt that is an option without going to the trouble of relocating their attachment points. You could add a leaf or two, but who knows what affect that will have on your spring rate/ride quality - I'm sure it won't make it better!

I am relocating the front spring hanger with the DIY4X mount. Good point about taking flack about a lift block in the front as well, I thought the same thing. The problem is I'm looking for 6" and I might only get 5" due to sag. I guess the best bet will be to check it out.

[Rack Man]

I just installed them....and it really is no different than adding a "real" add a leaf....It's just short....

ORD sell tons of them...I'm sure they are fine!

I did it for the same reason as you...to just help a little with any sagging of the original leafs...

One note: I had to drill out my front leafs to accept the slightly larger pin that ORD sent with the kit....That was tough, with just a hand drill as that steel is pretty hard....

Also, the kit included the wrong U-bolts for my application...so double check that!

Dan

[Yukon Jack]

Well, it will hurt your spring rate but here is an idea. Tuff Country sells the EZ-ride and the HD front springs. You may be able to buy the extra bottom leaf that they use to make the EZ into the HD. A board member had the HD extra leafs and when I added the BBC I went to 6" EZ Ride springs and got the extra leafs from me and they gained right about 1" of extra lift.

[Jtrux]

You can use them up front, I might end up having to put some on my blazer. One inch is no biggie, it's when you start using blocks for 4 or 6 inch or more that you run into problems.

What i'm trying to say is don't do this...

[snj8198]

Originally Posted by Jtrux

You can use them up front, I might end up having to put some on my blazer. One inch is no biggie, it's when you start using blocks for 4 or 6 inch or more that you run into problems.

What i'm trying to say is don't do this...

i just choked on my coffee! what a pic!

[Jtrux]

Yeah it's pretty bad.

[Fubar]

What's wrong with that?

[ryanroo]

love the fact that it is red iron too. some people's children...

zero rate add a leaves are OK. i am with Yukon though, it seems like a band aid fix. plus lower is better right?

ryan

[ericpost]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

love the fact that it is red iron too. some people's children...

zero rate add a leaves are OK. i am with Yukon though, it seems like a band aid fix. plus lower is better right?

ryan

Lower might not be better in this case..

Trying to get 39.5 or 42's under a 72 GMC Jimmy with a 6"inch lift. I'll already be cutting a bit and a saggy set of springs (most 20yr old springs will be!) means more chopping. I also like the idea of being able to tweak the axle position a bit.

[cobinder]

If you only need to tune a little bit you might be able to get-ur-done with longer shackels. Mock it up and see what you have to do to get it where you want it.

[ericpost]

Originally Posted by cobinder

If you only need to tune a little bit you might be able to get-ur-done with longer shackels. Mock it up and see what you have to do to get it where you want it.

Already getting 6" shackles with the DIY kit. Longer shackels go the wrong way with the pinion angle for the front so I'll probably stay away from that option. JustChevy is right up the road from me so finding some reasonable springs shouldn't be that hard and the guys are pretty easy on my wallet. I should have known trying to get this done within a reasonable budget wasn't going to work out. Once I get everything in and the truck on the ground I'll be able to tell where I'm at and go from there.

[boostat4500]

I made my own zero rate block for the front. Used it to add about a 1/2" lift and move the axle back 1". I actually just welded them to the axle housing, figured not much chance of a problem that way. So far, so good. Just another option.

[mothertrucker424]

i,ve seen multiple full lenght leafs cut to about 4" sctions and use as 1"-2" high bolted to the pack is that safe?

[badpeanut]

Originally Posted by Rack Man

One note: I had to drill out my front leafs to accept the slightly larger pin that ORD sent with the kit....That was tough, with just a hand drill as that steel is pretty hard....

Did you install the ORD zero rates in the rear also? Do the rear springs have to be drilled out or does the hardware ORD proves fit (on a '70 in your case or a '71 in my case)?

[special-K]

Originally Posted by mothertrucker424

i,ve seen multiple full lenght leafs cut to about 4" sctions and use as 1"-2" high bolted to the pack is that safe?

The first lift I did,that`s how I did the rear lift of 4".It worked fine.

[msgross]

Originally Posted by mothertrucker424

i,ve seen multiple full lenght leafs cut to about 4" sctions and use as 1"-2" high bolted to the pack is that safe?

That's basically what zero-rate leafs are. I used short add-a-leafs in the back and it added 1.5". I might do long add-a-leafs or zero rates in the front if needed.

[Rack Man]

Originally Posted by badpeanut

Did you install the ORD zero rates in the rear also? Do the rear springs have to be drilled out or does the hardware ORD proves fit (on a '70 in your case or a '71 in my case)?

I did install them on the rear as well....and the rears leafs actually had the correct size hole to accommodate the new pin that ORD supplied....One thing on the rears though.....ORD sent the worng U-bolts for them.....as they said they did not have the square style factory type....so I wound up doing a U-bolt flip....and they sent me out new top plates....

Dan