First real project, stocker feedback needed.

[Barebones66]

Im thinking about what needs to stay stock from the factory and what things I can possibly change in order to keep the label "stocker or original". I realize there are different levels of authenticity even all the way down to original nuts and bolts for every part on the truck. Im really not concerned about that because I have no plans on selling it but you never know, and ultimately I just want to stay true to myself and restore this thing to it's potential in my view.

My plans are to keep my 66 all original but i'd like to go with some nice rally wheels, chrome bumpers and grille, and for the interior i'd like to throw some vintage air in it, everything else will stay as close to factory as possible for a few reasons but mainly because this is my first resto/rebuild and I have limited space since im working out of my shed and carport and i'd like to keep my first one as simple as possible.

Questions going in are :
If I make changes like chrome bumpers, grille, and vintage air will the truck no longer be considered by most in the business as being factory/original ?

I also want to keep the original 292 in it but if I spank the motor some will that affect the "original" tag as well ?

How about if I repaint the interior to match factory, that wouldn't matter right ?

Pics below show the truck and the limited space I have to work with. The double doors in the backround lead to my 14x12 shed I added on to carport all work including priming will be done here excluded painting, i'll rent a booth when ready for finish coats and just trailer them down in two or three trips.

My original time frame was a 10 year project but i'd love to be able to make it happen in 3-5.

Any feedback is appreciated.

[protrash64]

Original or not, Id upgrade the ms-cylinder to at least manual front/rear set-up just for safety.

I believe all the chrome you mentioned would be stock in one package or another; others will know better than I.

If you change stuff, keep your old parts and you can change back if you decide later. It doesnt take alot of space for the small stuff.

[collins10672]

your tastes run closer to my style of truck.but that's just the same as everybody has a opinion about things.build what you want because it's your truck and nobody will have to look at it everyday except for you.i like the stock body and look of the trucks without body mod's.rarely would anyone do a 100% concours frame off.(although i like them that way)my style would run closer to 70%-90% original.maybe with rallye wheels,after market radio,newer engine,etc.etc.my truck's are standard cab's.would i convert to custom cab.YES,but that's my opinion only(i just love chrome).good luck with your project no matter which way you go.

[Barebones66]

Originally Posted by protrash64

Original or not, Id upgrade the ms-cylinder to at least manual front/rear set-up just for safety.

I believe all the chrome you mentioned would be stock in one package or another; others will know better than I.

If you change stuff, keep your old parts and you can change back if you decide later. It doesnt take alot of space for the small stuff.

Protrash:

So you think the brake booster master combo w/chrome would be the way to go ? Or are you saying just go with the dual reservoir unit w/chrome ? Obviously I want to add some chrome to the truck... lol


Collins:

I do like the thought of converting over to the custom look cause I like the chrome but I guess thats something im still considering and have some time to decide. The truck is 507AA which is the light blue and I like this look below, but i'd want to keep the original side door mounted chrome mirrors if I did go one solid color or the custom look.

[ChiefRocka]

Upgradeing the brakes is a good call in keeping the 'stocker' and you in one piece !!

[jonzcustomshop]

why are you worried about labeling your truck?
If you plan to keep it, build it for yourself with whatever mods make you happy.
If you do a good clean build it will always have value, stock or not.

[4dranch]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

why are you worried about labeling your truck?
If you plan to keep it, build it for yourself with whatever mods make you happy.
If you do a good clean build it will always have value, stock or not.

[Barebones66]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

why are you worried about labeling your truck?
If you plan to keep it, build it for yourself with whatever mods make you happy.
If you do a good clean build it will always have value, stock or not.

Not worried about it but this is my first project and im just asking questions to make sure im doing the right thing before I start changing things. I realize it's whatever I want to do to it and to make sure it's a tight job, but im just trying to keep it as original as possible and from what im gathering from the responses so far im ok to make suttle changes. Longterm value has nothing to do with what im talking about however, just trying to make the right call.

Thanks for your input Jon it gives me alot more confidence in going forward with the plans I have for it.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

why are you worried about labeling your truck?
If you plan to keep it, build it for yourself with whatever mods make you happy.
If you do a good clean build it will always have value, stock or not.

I haven't even came up with a name for mine yet. I'm usually quick to name a car. I thought about a lable or catagory for my truck for about 5 minutes. With a lable there are rules. I'm building my truck for me. If people like it great. If it is done right and appealing to the eye then it is a job well done. I hope to pass it own to my girls to fight over. The truck is basically like a canvas for a painter, they put there ideas on it and that's the way I look at it. Hope it helps.

[LILRED66]

barebones66:

Well, I guess I will chime in after reading everyone's posts. I like the stock, vintage, original looks of the 4-5-6 Chevy trucks, so I will always root for this style. That being said, I also see some really cool things on this site and others like it.

One thing to consider is the fact that unmolested survivors are becoming more and more difficult to find, especially with the popularity of the '60-'66 Chevy trucks catching up to the '55-'59 and the '67-'72 style trucks. If and when I do see them at shows, cruise-ins, swap meets or for sale, many of them have already been modified to fit someone else's style and taste. Which is great, if that happens to be your style or taste, but if not, it is harder to find one that has not been modified.

No matter what you do, you will be the proud owner of the truck and it will give you the most pleasure, so do what you like.

PS-If the factory drum brake system is in good condition and not in a state of disrepair, it is quite capable of doing its job of stopping properly, responsively and adequately, so doing a disk conversion is not needed, although maybe desired.

[LILRED66]

I forgot to mention, the first few things I do when I acquire a 4-5-6 Chevy truck are:

Remove anything that is not attached to the truck, ie, trash, extra parts, materials, etc.

Give the entire truck a good bath and detail.

Fix anything that is broken with factory parts, if available.

Replace anything that is missing with factory parts, if available.

Repair anything that is not functioning properly.

After list checklist is complete, I make an assessment of whether to do any major modifications or keep it an original, unmolested survivor.

Good luck with your project and keep us posted of your progress, especially pictures...lots of pictures.

[austex66]

I forgot to mention, the first few things I do when I acquire a 4-5-6 Chevy truck are:

Remove anything that is not attached to the truck, ie, trash, extra parts, materials, etc.

Give the entire truck a good bath and detail.

Fix anything that is broken with factory parts, if available.

Replace anything that is missing with factory parts, if available.

Repair anything that is not functioning properly.

After list checklist is complete, I make an assessment of whether to do any major modifications or keep it an original, unmolested survivor.

Good advice. I am/would also take this approach.

[TR65]

Barebones,

I agree with Tony 99% of the time and follow his advice on most everything. I am also loathe to make modifications that are not easily reversible to stock. I do have to disagree about the disc brake conversion.

I ran my 65 with drum brakes in new re-built condition and in high speed freeway traffic they just were not up to the task. I could not keep a safe following distance because of other drivers cutting in. A few close calls and I made the switch. Since it is a bolt on upgrade no modification has to be made to the truck, it can be immediately "restored" to factory stock. That has been the biggest improvement in making the truck fun to drive. The disc brake system I run now is very good.

The next best modification was the addition of a front anti-roll bar. It requires the addition of a few bolt holes drilled in the frame and A-arm but the improvment in handling is remarkable. The truck is much more fun to drive. Again, the truck can be "restored" to factory stock easily.

Sorry about the hack job to your dash. It just makes you shake your head.

Good luck on your project!!

TR

[LILRED66]

I agree that disk brakes are a better performing brake system. I upgrade all of my 4-5-6 Chevy trucks with a factory power brake booster, which was available on these trucks. It makes a great deal of improvement to the factory 4-drum braking setup.

Also, the 4-5-6 Chevy trucks, mostly the C20's and the Custom Campers were available from the dealer with a factory sway bar. In fact, most of the lower "A" arms I have seen, already have the two holes drilled in the front portion, to accept a factory/dealer installed sway bar. I currently have two 4-5-6 C20's with factory sway bars installed on them.

TR65, thanks for the vote of confidence...I appreciate it.

[collins10672]

the 66 short fleet i had in high school was a 350,th350 with a 3:07 rear axle.custom cab turquoise and white truck.it still had the stock manual brakes.i never had a problem with them going bad or being spongy or anything,but i didn't do any high speed driving either.i was too proud of this truck i got it at 15 years old to wreck it or tear it up.i traced the history of the truck all the way back to 1966 and at the time the original owner was still living.i got broke in right with this truck.manual brakes,manual steering.i always thought my muscles would get a little bigger ever time i paralell parked it downtown.

[Barebones66]

Thanks to all who have responded, I want to say I really respect everyones view on this issue. Im just a rookie wanting to learn from some of the many great talents on this website. I have the utmost respect for you guys for doing what you've done for so long.


My father (who will be reading this and watching the progress) is very helpful with alot of things. We've been discussing the build over the phone and via email so I want you all to know he has a role in this build, along with my son who is lending a helpful hand at times and we will both be learning as we go. My fathers knowledge in the body and paint industry along with some mechanical experience will help me along and I hope to make all who are viewing proud of my work. Who knows pop, maybe after this one we can get that 48 coupe.



Up until now i've been assessing everything and making notes and lists as many of you have recommended. I have just been tinkering with some things like rebuilding the carb, replacing valve cover, checking into parts, paint and other misc. things but now i've got a plan. Im gonna start with the cab interior and floor, then take the bed apart, then i'll move to the front after I assess some things in the bed.


Last night I took the the door moldings off and stripped the remaining floor liner swept and cleaned with laquer thinner just to see what I had for rust in my corners. Not to bad at all...

Heres some pics:

[Barebones66]

My first ever carb rebuild.

Had to move the operation into my limited space in my shed cause the wind was blowing bad while we had a storm movin through last week and I didn't want to lose any small parts...lol

If my wife knew what my makeshift workbench looked like she would kill me...

Carbs going into a box stored and labeled until it's time to re-install

[Barebones66]

Originally Posted by TR65

Barebones,

I agree with Tony 99% of the time and follow his advice on most everything. I am also loathe to make modifications that are not easily reversible to stock. I do have to disagree about the disc brake conversion.

I ran my 65 with drum brakes in new re-built condition and in high speed freeway traffic they just were not up to the task. I could not keep a safe following distance because of other drivers cutting in. A few close calls and I made the switch. Since it is a bolt on upgrade no modification has to be made to the truck, it can be immediately "restored" to factory stock. That has been the biggest improvement in making the truck fun to drive. The disc brake system I run now is very good.

The next best modification was the addition of a front anti-roll bar. It requires the addition of a few bolt holes drilled in the frame and A-arm but the improvment in handling is remarkable. The truck is much more fun to drive. Again, the truck can be "restored" to factory stock easily.

Sorry about the hack job to your dash. It just makes you shake your head.

Good luck on your project!!

TR

Thanks for the advice and I am definately considering the disk scenario. My oleman and I have talked about brakes, tires, and other safety issues over the years with cars so im definately considering it.

Thanks for understanding about the dash. Last night while I was scraping some of the contact cement off around the hackjob I caught myself shaking my head with every swipe of the putty knife and told myself "sssheessh, what idiots... i'll take care of you when I get the welder"...

Gonna try my hand at fixin it and i'll make sure to post pics when I do. So far my plan is to put an original am radio back in the slot. Although I am still considering the am/fm conversion that Tony has available. But I have to admit, I did catch myself thinking about a flipdown dvd player for that slot ...lol.

[LILRED66]

Dave:

The floor looks awesome. Put a 3" Scotch-Brite pad in your die grinder and it will remove any surface rust you have remaining on the floor.

I applaud your plan and progress...keep up the good work.

PS-the photos are great.

[collins10672]

i love those floorpans,i am sure most all of us would like to have ours still that solid(my floorpans are very solid,but nothing like you have).looks like you really lucked up on your truck.matter of fact when i go and look at any 60-66 truck that is the first place i look under the floor and cab braces.i have personally looked at over 150 of these trucks thru the years and i can say i have only saw less than 10 with floors that solid.if your floors are that solid i bet the rest of the body is very good.

[Barebones66]

Originally Posted by collins10672

i love those floorpans,i am sure most all of us would like to have ours still that solid(my floorpans are very solid,but nothing like you have).looks like you really lucked up on your truck.matter of fact when i go and look at any 60-66 truck that is the first place i look under the floor and cab braces.i have personally looked at over 150 of these trucks thru the years and i can say i have only saw less than 10 with floors that solid.if your floors are that solid i bet the rest of the body is very good.

Have no clue how to multi quote so i'll just respond individually for now.

Thanks, I did luck up with the floors your right and I was pretty stoked about it when I was going through it, but you'll see when I get to the hood the front section above the grille, the passenger door and the passenger bed panel all have bondo and some high spots that I need to be remove so I do have plenty of work ahead of me. The fenders both need work and thats typical but im going to take my time with a dolly and see if I can salvage them, I may need to get some skins... I know it means WAY to much time but im gonna try it. I've been talking to my pop about lead loading and im sure that will come into play in the process as well and i'll make sure and post pics if it does.

All in all though, im very pleased with the trade I made.

Also got a spray booth and yard hooked up when im ready to strip it, sand it, prime it, or whatever. Im working by Luke airforce base at a place that ironically powdercoats and paints aerospace equipment and the owner and I hit it off really well. He told me I have full access to whatever I need he said just let him know and the booth and yard is mine (weekends offcourse). I took pics of the setup with my cellphone but don't know how to upload from there so i'll take the digital with me tomorrow and take pics and post them.

The real irony though,,, dude has a 67 c10 shortbed 4x4 that he bought when he was in his 20's, all original with about a buck and a quarter for miles.... how crazy is that ? Coolest guy you'd ever meet.

[Barebones66]

Originally Posted by LILRED66

Dave:

The floor looks awesome. Put a 3" Scotch-Brite pad in your die grinder and it will remove any surface rust you have remaining on the floor.

I applaud your plan and progress...keep up the good work.

PS-the photos are great.

Thanks Tony, appreciate the support.

I will have to spot some small panels in the corners though but im gonna use your technique first to see how much I really have to remove. I don't want to go to far I know, but I do think i'll be practicing the fine art of welding soon.

Been looking for used migs but I really don't know what I need. Im thinking a 90 amp will do everything I need it for. I also have to fab some heelguards for one of my quads so im sure i'll be putting it to use.

[Barebones66]

Anybody know if this breather and support ring that goes on top of the carb are factory for my truck ? If so i'd like to reuse them. It's the same breather pictured above just cleaned up and painted.

Also, I took a 250 in on trade that he gave me with the truck. Anybody need a 76 Camaro 250 ?

[LILRED66]

There is a lot of good information on MIG machines. I personally have a Miller 135. It has wire speed setting and voltage setting. I run .023 solid wire and CO2/Argon gas. I do a lot of sheet metal repair with this set-up with good results.

Regarding the factory air cleaner for a 230, 250 or 292 six cylinder for the '60-'66 Chevy trucks, here are a few photos.

[Barebones66]

Thanks for the info Tony,

Here are the pics of the spray booth i'll have access to, now I need to get to work.

Also took some shots of the boys playin at Luke today.