electric water pump heater hose routing Q?

[Senator350]

wondering how you guys with elec pumps did it...
did you just 'T' off your neck? orrr?

[jaros44sr]

You can buy a tee, I think it was a chrysler product, or you can have mine since I'm not using it. I didn't like the way the 5/8" hose would be routed. I plan to weld a bong to the tank and just put a barbed fitting in it. Also I want to flip my heater core upside down so the outlet has a shorter lenght to the rad.

[Senator350]

i'm thinking like you are, jaros.

i'd really like to have a direct route from my heater to a tank or even the rad.

i think i'm going to hold off on running the hoses for the heater until i decide if i want a mohave heater to replace my pretty tired stock system.

anyone else have any routing suggestions?

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Senator350

i'm thinking like you are, jaros.

i'd really like to have a direct route from my heater to a tank or even the rad.

i think i'm going to hold off on running the hoses for the heater until i decide if i want a mohave heater to replace my pretty tired stock system.

anyone else have any routing suggestions?

Yeah well,every thing just changed, as I'm trying to hook up my electric fan. Seems like my lower rad. hose now hits my factory shroud. Back to the drawing board!

Also, I will be running my 5/8" heater hose into the back of the cylinder head

I don't think anyone else is running an elec. WP

[Senator350]

well... looks like it's just you and me, jaros! guess we better make a good thread, so when people search in the future, they get tons of pics and info

looks like you're using March brackets (PN 22007?) did you have to drill and tap for the alternator mount? i've got a late 60's 327sbc, so i always worry about little things not lining up like they do on 350sbc's.


i've been looking at these fans from FAL:
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html...-electric.html


what are you using for fans?

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Senator350

i've been looking at these fans from FAL:
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html...-electric.html


what are you using for fans?

My son picked up one in the j/y, hooked it up to the battery and it really blows

[VanceH]

Ok so here goes another noob questions, why go with a electric pump, what are the advantages and disadvantages? Just wondering

Thanks

[Senator350]

that's easy enough information to find on CSR or proform website. but in the interest of actually establishing a good informational thread, with good results for rellevant search terms:

belt driven water pumps, found on most people's engines, require the engine to work the pulley. the engine only makes a certain amount of horsepower, so if some of that horsepower goes to turning your water pump... wouldn't you like to have that horsepower back? so it can go to your wheels?

basically, if you have an alternator that can handle the 20+ amp draw of an electric water pump, then you can gain a little efficiency in terms of horsepower to the wheels, or in terms of fuel consumption related to miles per gallon.

i have a big 4x4, and i need every mpg i can get... so elec water pump, and elec fans are good options for me. but if you are not "squeezing" power out of your motor, then there is no need. if you just want more horses, you can find many better modifications.

[VanceH]

Nice info man, what about looks, do they look the same as old style? I am removing my fan going with electric, i already have ordered a bigger alt. Do you gain any room buy going with electric water pump?

[Senator350]

i'd have to say that nothing about electric h2o pumps or electirc fans retains the stock looks.

the elec water pump is roughly equivolent in depth to a sbc long water pump (about 7" from mounting surface to face). the real changes you will see in looks are the lack of a pulley and the change in alternator mount. when you install an electric water pump, you have to also install a mid-mount alternator bracket system. the normal high-mount alt system will cause your alternator belt to interfere with the new water pump. (this is the March #22007 i questioned jaros about)

in regards to the stock fan to elec fan conversion... the difference in appearance is huge. the stock fan and fan clutch assy is completely removed, so there is now an obvious gap between your engine and fan shroud. the stock fan shroud on my sbc is probably over 6" deep. the fan shroud on electric fans is between 2-4", depending on if you go with a low profile fan or a normal 'universal style' from Flex-A-Lite, or SPAL. i cannot speak on the depth of fan and shroud assy's from other vehicles.


IMO, the new sight of an engine with less pulleys and belts, together with the actual ability to see the entire front of your engine is just tooooo cooool. i always hated working around the stock shroud and fan, and i look forward to being able to clean my engine bay with much less hassle.

[Senator350]

FYI,

the water neck (thermo housing/whatever you want to call it) from a late 80's chevy pickup has two extra inlets. one is for a vacuum switch (EGR stuff) and the other works well for screwing in a 3/4" nipple and directing your heater hose to.

problem solved

autozone can get chrome ones too! FOR JOY!!!

[68caliRat]

What is the average life expectancy of an electric WP? I worry about reliability.

[Senator350]

proform (the one i have) is 2500+ hour life expectancy, and proform can reman them for a decent price.

meizure has a pump with 3200+ hour life expectancy

everyone has a different opinion of if they will hold up to the test of time... i can only say that mine has run about 30 minutes so far with no problems :P

[jaros44sr]

My alt. bracket bolted rite up to the 350 head, there is a small issue with the tensioner rod under the alt., seems like they counterbored it from the wrong side. I've asked March to send me one off the production line that wasn't bored and I will fix it..

The main reason, besides cleaning up the front of my engine, is space. I plan to run an OD trans, and now I can shift the whole powertrain forward 3-4 inches

My concern is the elec. motor will quit and I won't see it, so I have to put an idiot lt. on the dash that will get my attention, you can miss a gauge climbing very easily!

I think DC motors are reliable, brushes and bearings being the only thing that can fail. Mine has a 1 3/4" outlet on my pump, and I want to change it to 1 1/2" because it mite be hard to find the rubber adapter on the road

We'll see how it works out, can't say, as mine is a Garage Queen for the last 5 years, but if it doesn't I can switch back to a conventional pump

[nartkers]

Originally Posted by Senator350

FYI,

the water neck (thermo housing/whatever you want to call it) from a late 80's chevy pickup has two extra inlets. one is for a vacuum switch (EGR stuff) and the other works well for screwing in a 3/4" nipple and directing your heater hose to.

problem solved

autozone can get chrome ones too! FOR JOY!!!

What about thermo housings with a single extra inlet? Any suggestions? Would you just plug the extra one?

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Senator350

FYI,

the water neck (thermo housing/whatever you want to call it) from a late 80's chevy pickup has two extra inlets. one is for a vacuum switch (EGR stuff) and the other works well for screwing in a 3/4" nipple and directing your heater hose to.

problem solved

autozone can get chrome ones too! FOR JOY!!!

Got pics.?

[Senator350]

Well... Umm.... Kinda....

I'll have to search my puter. My camera phone just makes noise when I want to use the camera function...



So... as far as the late 80's water neck... The upper rad port is angled lower than on a traditional water neck. Thus focing me to relocate the water temp sender on my Edel Performer mani.

I haven't started working on the truck again yet (it's 20* out right now), BUT I'm considering using a water neck spacer (1" aluminum from Jegs or Summit).

Initially, I just ran an inline temp sensor housing in my upper rad hose, but then I couldn't find a 1/2"npt or 3/8"npt temp sender with the right ohms and sweep
So, I've got this kinda bling aluminum inline port now, which I'm considering using for a Flex-A-Lite temp sender to control heated seat switches... or... hmmmm

[Senator350]

Originally Posted by nartkers

What about thermo housings with a single extra inlet? Any suggestions? Would you just plug the extra one?

I vaguely recall a single extra port on a water neck from Summit... but it's kinda foggy now... been a while.

I did just plug my extra port. I just bought a NPT chrome plug kit from auto-zone. I got a couple each of four or five different sizes. They've already come in handy. I then plugged my water temp sender port, and my two new ports on my inline temp sender...

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Senator350

Well... Umm.... Kinda....

I'll have to search my puter. My camera phone just makes noise when I want to use the camera function...



So... as far as the late 80's water neck... The upper rad port is angled lower than on a traditional water neck. Thus focing me to relocate the water temp sender on my Edel Performer mani.

I haven't started working on the truck again yet (it's 20* out right now), BUT I'm considering using a water neck spacer (1" aluminum from Jegs or Summit).

Initially, I just ran an inline temp sensor housing in my upper rad hose, but then I couldn't find a 1/2"npt or 3/8"npt temp sender with the right ohms and sweep
So, I've got this kinda bling aluminum inline port now, which I'm considering using for a Flex-A-Lite temp sender to control heated seat switches... or... hmmmm

Sooooo, have you started the engine up with this setup, lmk if you get heat when you do. My idea is not panning out like I hoped, I may go your way and drill and tap the inlet if there is enough metal there to support it

[nartkers]

I found this one on the Autozone website - looks like it might work well. I put in 1981 GMC C1500 2wd 1/2 ton 5.0L 4BL OHV 8 cyl in the vehicle details. It is Spectra p/n 4730

[Senator350]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Sooooo, have you started the engine up with this setup, lmk if you get heat when you do. My idea is not panning out like I hoped, I may go your way and drill and tap the inlet if there is enough metal there to support it

I did not have my water plumbed when I ran my engine to test my ignition.
I have not had my engine running since then either...

BUT, I did run the electric water pump and my electric heater with the key in the accessory position. It circulated well, and I could hear most of the bubbles flushing out.

Whether or not it will all explode when there is water pressure and circulation through the block remains to be seen

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Senator350

I did not have my water plumbed when I ran my engine to test my ignition.
I have not had my engine running since then either...

BUT, I did run the electric water pump and my electric heater with the key in the accessory position. It circulated well, and I could hear most of the bubbles flushing out.

Whether or not it will all explode when there is water pressure and circulation through the block remains to be seen

OK, I still have some time before mine needs to work, so I'll wait and see how yours works out. I like your location, but it has to work, I'm concerned about the flow with the thermastat closed, but we'll see. I'll go down another path and see if I can get anywhere

Mistake in the 3rd pic. is that I made it up using a 1/2" NPT bung, for a -12 AN (5/8") it needs to be a 3/4" NPT. So back to the drawing board

[jaros44sr]

For some reason I had the wrong flow direction in my head, read another thread that shows the right direction. I think your setup may very well work, plus it will give you another area to bleed off trapped air in the cooling system. Keep us posted as you make progress

[Senator350]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Dangit!!! Now I've got this unexplainable urge to finally fill a tank with some Helium and start plumbing with metal instead of rubber.

Kinda off topic, but your ballin' aluminum fab work makes me think of a rod plumbed with copper.... looked sharp. Your aluminum look snice, but you might want to consider finding a source for a 90* street T I know they are avail in copper and iron and pvc and stainless... So I bet you could find one.

A street T would have a bit of elbow to the inlet. It would actually flow the coolant into your water neck instead of the abrupt 90* it makes now, and I think it might look cleaner.

I bet if you look hard enough you can even find them with the correct male/female/threaded combination you need.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Senator350

Dangit!!! Now I've got this unexplainable urge to finally fill a tank with some Helium and start plumbing with metal instead of rubber.

Kinda off topic, but your ballin' aluminum fab work makes me think of a rod plumbed with copper.... looked sharp. Your aluminum look snice, but you might want to consider finding a source for a 90* street T I know they are avail in copper and iron and pvc and stainless... So I bet you could find one.

A street T would have a bit of elbow to the inlet. It would actually flow the coolant into your water neck instead of the abrupt 90* it makes now, and I think it might look cleaner.

I bet if you look hard enough you can even find them with the correct male/female/threaded combination you need.

Thanks, but your idea of plumbing into water neck, has me doing a total redesign.

-12AN/ 3/4"NPT drilled and tapped into my waterneck, 45 degree -12 fitting headed at the heater core. At this point in time everything will be push on fittings

The inlet for the electric water pump will go back to stock. All my hoses should look like my power steering