calling arveetek

[chevy68388]

hey from what i understand u are the man to talk to about diesel motor swaps. i have a 86 gmc short bed with a 400sb and 700r4 trans im thinking of changing over to a 6.5 diesel or a 6.2 what would be eazyer / better i will want a turbo on both bigger injecters i real want a high power diesel . i love to whatch my buddys 6.5 turbo just smoke like a bat out of hell. going down the road. and please tell me i will not have to get ride of my gasser 700r4 for a diesel vrison.

[CT-Truckster]

what are you gonna do with the 400sb?

[RockHQ]

I'll jump in with some thoughts. You're best off to get a complete 6.5 factory turbo and rebuild it completely to avoid any problems when you trick it up. You will absolutely want one with an older model mechanical injection pump, not an electronically controlled version. Two reasons: 1. No need to wire up a computer just to run the injection pump 2. those electronically controlled pumps have a long list of failures and generally a reputation of unreliability.
Turbocharging a 6.2 is also an option, but finding the proper parts is a lot more difficult (not to mention expensive) than buying a 6.5TD. The 6.2 was available from the factory with a turbo but only from 1990 to 1993.
Higher flowing injectors are only necessary when you are really pushing it to the limits, because ultimately the fuel amount, injection time and timing are dependant on the injection pump.

Your 700R4 will need a few mods to be able to withstand the massive amount of torque a tricked 6.5 (or 6.2 for that matter) will produce. Of course you'll need a new convertor for it too.
Let's see what Casey (arveetek) has to say.

[chevy68388]

thanks for the info . im nnt sure what i will do with the 400 maybe build it up for another truck/car

[arveetek]

Rock has give you some good advice. The only problem with installing a 6.5L with factory turbo into our old body style trucks is that the turbo won't clear the a/c evaporator housing. If your truck doesn't have a/c, then it's no problem. If it does, you'll have to cut the evaporator box and modify it somehow.

A 6.5L and 6.2L are identical for all practical purposes...it's just the 6.5L is a later design with bigger bore. Since it has more displacement, it's going to give more power than a 6.2L. Therefore, a 6.5L would be the best choice.

You could get a 6.5L without a turbo and install a Banks Sidewinder turbo kit for a 6.2L. It would be a direct bolt-on for our body style of trucks.

If you just want to pick up a used motor, get a 6.5L turbo from a '93 Chevy. It's the last year of mechanical fuel injection. Then you'll also need the radiator, ps pump, hydroboost brake system, alternator, and a/c compressor (if necessary) from an older body style 6.2L truck.

My advice, is if you really want to do this, is subscribe to www.thedieselpage.com and order all the past article reprints. Then you can study on all the various options for making a 300 hp 6.5L turbodiesel!

[arveetek]

Oh yeah, you can bolt the diesel to the 700. I have been running a used '90 model gasser 700 behind my 6.2L for about 100,000 miles with no problem. I prefer the higher stall speed TC anyway. However, I don't know how well an '86 model 700 would last behind a diesel.

[RockHQ]

You're right casey. The 1990-1993 6.2 factory turbo was made by Banks for GM, but their new Sidewinder setup is better i believe. I would have ordered it if were not for the price, $2595 delivered here [Finland, Europe]. US price i believe is around $2200, depending on delivery distance. Then again, you could order a 300 horsepower full engine from here, but over $8400 seems a little steep

Casey, what do you think your stall is with that gasser converter and a 6.2?

-Axle

[arveetek]

Considering what new Duramax diesel engines cost, $8400 ain't so bad for a high performance 6.5L! Still way out of my price range, though.

I don't have any idea what my stall rpm is...I don't have a tach. I know it's higher than the '86 'burb I had with a 6.2L and factory 700.

[chevy68388]

ok i have ac but it doesnt work so that can go but why do i have to change the brakes will i have to change the hole thing or just the power brake unit that bolts to the fire wall

[arveetek]

You need to change out the power brake assist unit along with the master cylinder. The rest of the brake system can stay. The reason you need to change, is that diesels don't produce any vacuum, so the vacuum-assist pod you have now won't work. The hydroboost brake setup runs off the ps pump.

Now, having said that, you CAN retain your vacuum-assist pod if you have a good vacuum pump that works well on the diesel (all GM diesels use a vacuum pump to run a/c accessories and cruise control), as well as an auxillary vacuum tank. I'm still using the vacuum assist on my '81. However, I have to wait a moment after startup for the engine-driven vacuum pump to build up vacuum before I can use the brakes. It's no big deal, I've gotten used to it. But I would highly recommend going to hydroboost....it'd be much safer.